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Water depth and boat type are very important variables to consider. Popping for large tuna on a private boat in relatively shallow water requires much less drag than from a dead drifting party boat in 4000 ft. of water.

It's not the long runs you need heavy drag for, it's to cut off the circles and pull the fish up once you have him under the boat. I am with Kil on this one, 20+ lbs to start, and for fish in the 175lb class and higher, you better be able to put 30 lbs on them.

I like your thought process. I'm usually fishing in 100-250' of water. I think I'll step up to the 20# range and get a little experience with that.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Hiya

I fish primarily with 20-25lb's of drag, for tuna from 100-220lb's. I've found that using higher drag settings, like 30lb's+ results in alot more hook-pulls as well as being dangerous for an angler who is strapped into a harness.

The softer drag settings has allowed me to land numerous tuna that were poorly hooked, where heavier drag settings would surely have meant a lost fish.


Hi Miles,
Giant bluefin tuna fishing is canceled today due to unusual high waves.
Bait fishing is somewhat different from jigging/popping. It is better off to slack the drag a little bit at initial run when you use bait.
Some reels are hisitant at initial drag and it causes line break-off when you give heavy drag at initial run.

Tuna don't have soft mouth like swordfish. Once properly hooked, you rarely lose tuna with 23 -25 lbs initial drag and about 30 lbs plus when circling.
I believe you lose more fish while fighting longer.
When hooked while jigging and popping, hook's location is usually around the hard part of mouth and it is important to keep pressure not to give any slack line, especially when they make head shake.
 
Hi Miles,
...
Tuna don't have soft mouth like swordfish. Once properly hooked, you rarely lose tuna with 23 -25 lbs initial drag and about 30 lbs plus when circling.
I believe you lose more fish while fighting longer.


I completely agree with the notion that a long fight can lead to equipment failure. Here are two photos that show a #4 100# coastlock swivel and a fatigued leader, each failing after a fight longer than an hour (on too low drag pressure).

When I moved up 20% in drag, the time dropped to under 40 minutes and I've had no equipment failures. I will now increase another 40% drag to 18-20# which I'm told is the limit of my Penn 950ssm reels.
 

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Hi Kil ,

When I go YFT fishing using PE4 = 60 lbs. line , my initial drag is only 6 kg but once that tuna took 150m ( one half of a spool ) of the line in it's initial run , the drag of my SW8000HG wud have increased by 2~3 times that and you can judge by looking at the bent of the rod . Once the tuna stop diving then you can start retrieving the line and if the tuna is anything above 100 lbs. , it will dive again and again but each time the run will be shorter and shorter and at such time it starts to circle , I wud not increase my drag just incase it dives again and spiking the drag n break the line .

Once the tuna is circling then I wud add my drag slightly to 8 kg and once I can see colour then I wud increase the drag again to 10 kg but never beyond that , in average the fight with 100 lbs. YFT using the said tackles will take less than 15 minutes .

I have in one occasion subdued at 150 lbs YFT in 5 mins. + a few second using PE6 line using 8 kg intial drag but that fish seems to burn itself fast ,
it did a couple deep dive and then just surfaced close to the boat where the gaftman did his work well on the first pass .

A few time I forgot to set back the drag after catching the fish earlier and was left at 10 kg , upon a strike the hook was torn out from the mouth of the fish due to too high a drag during the first run .

Another thing in YFT fishing , I bring small to medium sized lures from 40 gr. ~ 100 gr. but never anything bigger , GT lures stay at home . I have experienced YFTs refusing to strike 80 gr. lures but would strike a 40 gr. lures without any hesitation . It's a matter of matching the baitfish being preyed upon by the YFTs .

Jon .
 

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i think yellowfin in different areas hit different lures. i'll use large poppers and 120g lures for yellowfin unless theyre feeding on tiny fish, then ill drop down.

its important to know the fish in the area you're fishing in. what lures seem to work best where you fish?
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
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I am no expert, and everyone will have success using different techniques. My technique works well for me when chunking and surface fishing tuna.

I have caught 2 decent surface YFT, 118lb ad 135lb, both probably in about 10 minutes. I have the drag at about 8-10 pounds for the strike to set the hook and prevent any case where initial "start up" drag pull may break the line or pull the hook (It is not uncommon for the initial pull to START taking line to be higher than the pull needed to maintain line coming off the reel). Once I am sure the hook is set well, I progressively increase the drag to max out my rod if needed. If the fish stops sooner, he receives less drag. I then reel in like crazy, and if the fish goes on another run, then I punish him even more. I just hold the rod in the gimbal and smoothly turn up the drag until they stop. Then I crank them up to the boat. If the fish begins to circle and I have control, I will keep the drag at its high setting. If the fish still has some fight near the boat, I become very careful with drag pressure to avoid breakoffs, line failure, and to control my line angle. I need to control the fish, rod, my own balance, and line angle if the fish goes on a sudden run, and with high drag, that can be a problem. In the case the fish is a little green near the boat, I don't increase the drag. In fact I may actually decrease the drag to the lowest level needed to keep cutting off any circles. If the fish is green and takes off, I make sure my line angle is good, my balance is good, and then immediately up goes the drag! If it is a big fish, something will break--either the fish, the rod, the reel, or my back. The fish is the weakest link in this scenario. I don't let the fish run far when they turn for a last dive. It is amazing how you can stop them on these runs using high drag. You aren't going to break 65 pound line with even 40 pounds of drag if the fish is taking the line straight down and only for 20-40 yards. They will then quickly tire not far from the boat and I reel like crazy bringing them back up.

That's just the way I do it. Set the hook with modest drag at most, and then smoothly increase the drag over several (2-6) seconds, putting on the brakes, using my stella 20000 and GUSA Wahoo. A powerful rod is key, as it does a lot of the work. My 8 foot GUSA allows me to keep the line away from the boat at all times. I don't bother to measure drag with my surface tuna fishing as I know my rod bottoms out at about 30 pounds. My line can handle that load as long as the knots, line, and hooks don't fatigue with a long battle.

It would be very interesting to tie a lure onto line and then let a bucket with 12-15 pounds of pressure hang from the hook for 1 hour. Then do not let up on the pressure and find out what the breaking strength would be. I bet it would be substantially less than doing the same test using a 23-25 pound bucket for 15 minutes. It would be even more interesting to test the breaking strength after a prolonged pull using standardized accelerated pulls to mimick a fish making a quick run. I would be shocked if the set up with more pressure and less time breaks first.
 
I can tell you this.. Don't use Super Smoothies drag washers in your Torium or Trinidad. I hooked 8 and landed 5 over 80# up to 120#. I also had 3 extimated at over 150# that took my bait 400 yds straight down and pulled the hooks. Two other guys used the rig to catch YFT over 80# on Topwaters after that.

I found out after that trip the max drag available was only 12# but I started out with 22# and some room for more tightening of the drag star.

Use Carbontex!

Bazz
 
i dont get what youre saying. trinidad 40-50 has 33lbs of drag. torium realistically is an 18lbs drag reel. any more you'll break the anti reverse and then watch out for the knuckle buster.
 
I can tell you this.. Don't use Super Smoothies drag washers in your Torium or Trinidad. I hooked 8 and landed 5 over 80# up to 120#. I also had 3 extimated at over 150# that took my bait 400 yds straight down and pulled the hooks. Two other guys used the rig to catch YFT over 80# on Topwaters after that.

I found out after that trip the max drag available was only 12# but I started out with 22# and some room for more tightening of the drag star.

Use Carbontex!

Bazz
Just wondering why you're not using the Carbontex in the first time instead Super/Xtreme Smoothies ?
It's only $6 different on price but give you big different on performance.
 
Hi Kil ,

When I go YFT fishing using PE4 = 60 lbs. line , my initial drag is only 6 kg but once that tuna took 150m ( one half of a spool ) of the line in it's initial run , the drag of my SW8000HG wud have increased by 2~3 times that and you can judge by looking at the bent of the rod .

Once the tuna is circling then I wud add my drag slightly to 8 kg and once I can see colour then I wud increase the drag again to 10 kg but never beyond that , in average the fight with 100 lbs. YFT using the said tackles will take less than 15 minutes .

I have in one occasion subdued at 150 lbs YFT in 5 mins. + a few second using PE6 line using 8 kg intial drag but that fish seems to burn itself fast ,
it did a couple deep dive and then just surfaced close to the boat where the gaftman did his work well on the first pass .




I have a spread sheet for spinning reels that calculates the drag build up as line is taken. It also puts some numbers to the rod loading. I posted a full set of conclusions on another site, but for my reel, here are a couple of the numbers:

Reel
--Drag Increases Significantly When a Fish Takes Line: As noted by many others, the 950 SSM has a top drag of about 18 pounds with a full spool. I measured a maximum drag torque-resistance of about 25 inch-pounds when the cap-screw spring is fully compressed. That means that the 950SSM drag force goes up 2.2 times (e.g. 18# to 39.5#) from a full spool to an empty spool. (Other reels will be different based on the ratio of full to empty diameter.) When 200 yards of 50# line has been taken, the drag rises from 18# to about 24-25#. (I went to a large triple soccer field to confirm this.)

Rod
--Rod Hand Load Can be Much Higher than Drag Setting: If reel drag is set to 18# and the rod is pointed straight out, the fisherman holds back 18#. If the rod is lifted so the butt is at a right angle to the line (St. Croix SWS70MHF), your top hand holds back 48# pounds initially. If the rod is brought back to that same right angle on a 300 yard run (drag builds to 25#) the rod hand force goes to 77 pounds. This build up of hand load happens because of less leverage: the butt to hand distance is 22" and the butt to (bent tip) distance is 59".

Also, when the fish is circling below you, often you can hold the spool, pull on the rod as hard as you can (say 80# on the grip) and not exceed 30# of pressure on the fish.
 
dont set your drag coming off the reel, set it coming off the rod at a realistic angle. i'm not sure what everyone else does, but i just have a scale and set it based on how i'm most likely to catch a fish.
 
Bret

the anti reverse was never an issue??

Maybe I just got a good one :D

It will eventually break, sooner than later (likely when you least desire it to happen) if targeting YFT. If you ever take the reel apart you will see that the antireverse is not built for long, hard battles. I love toriums, but I would never count on it for any tuna over 60-70 pounds (that's not saying it can't be done. I caught a 118 pounder in about 10 minutes with my torium 30.)
 
For the money, the torium is a great reel. You get what you pay for once again. It's not made or designed as a tuna reel. It will work, but don't be surprised when the big bang happens. It's a great inshore reel that should give you years of life if targeting fish in the 12 to 40# range.

I've always told people that if you have to change out the drag washers to carbon tex just to get more pressure, something else will break. Pushing anything to the limit is asking for trouble.
 
dont set your drag coming off the reel, set it coming off the rod at a realistic angle. i'm not sure what everyone else does, but i just have a scale and set it based on how i'm most likely to catch a fish.

Yes, you're right, that's how I ran all my tests and measurements. The drag build up is pretty interesting, no?
 
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