Will be building my first heavy jiggin stik

Discussion in 'Rod Building' started by VaRandy, Sep 3, 2008.

  1. VaRandy

    VaRandy Site Sponsor

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    Thanx to all that replied while I learned about the new world of deep jigging.

    I wanted to try something different (involves risk) and did a lot of homework. I have ordered a 6 foot 50-80 jigging stick from CTS, New Zealand. It is capabile of dead lifts I would rather let the manufacturer give out!

    It will take the full drag or my Torsa and will have 65 lb braid.

    It will be a conventional spiral wrap and I don't know what guides will work till I get it bent over good. I think it is too moderate a bend to allow the American Rollers I wanted to go with. It supposedly bends all the way through the butt!

    This stick will be a tuna stick primarily for jigging after we hook up trolling. I expect to be able to take YF to 150, particularily if I get the rollers on it.

    I have witnessed other CTS sticks, all are light and gutsy. They are quite pricey but absolutely beautiful.

    Will keep you informed on the build.
     
  2. GanderVA

    GanderVA Senior Member

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    Randy--Is Hanover becoming another hot bed of jiggers and poppers or are you piggy backing the first New Zealand CTS jig rod with a surf rod order to FishSticks in Mechanicsville? Gary
     

  3. mike garone

    mike garone Well-Known Member

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    if you are planning on jigging with it why do you want to go with rollers? I would use fuji SIC ringed guides. That is what I do for all of my tuna jigging rods as well as my chunking rods that do not have rollers.
     
  4. jureal

    jureal Senior Member

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    65# spectra does not need rollers. MNSG's are the way to go.
     
  5. VaRandy

    VaRandy Site Sponsor

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    Gary, yes mine was done through Fish stix! Mechanicsville is NOT jigging central!
     
  6. VaRandy

    VaRandy Site Sponsor

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    Mike, do you have any concern about using traditional guides with 40-50 lbs of drag. My equipment will do it even if I can take it only when holding onto T-tops!
     
  7. mike garone

    mike garone Well-Known Member

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    Mike, do you have any concern about using traditional guides with 40-50 lbs of drag. My equipment will do it even if I can take it only when holding onto T-tops!

    Will your blank be able to handle that type of drag and what will you be fishing it at? I am currently building a rod for my baker 4 and I plan on fishing that at 25-28# at strike and 35# at full and using it for large tuna like bigeyes and bluefin. This rod I am using regular ringed guides spiral wrapped. I would think as long as you use the correct # of guides you should not have a problem. Even if you are fishing with 50# of drag if you use 7 guides that is less than 10# average on each guide. For this build I would use fuji HNSG with no less that a size 10 ring. The larger guides have a longer foot so you have less of a chance of the guide pulling.
     
  8. mike garone

    mike garone Well-Known Member

    727
    157
    Thanx to all that replied while I learned about the new world of deep jigging.

    I wanted to try something different (involves risk) and did a lot of homework. I have ordered a 6 foot 50-80 jigging stick from CTS, New Zealand. It is capabile of dead lifts I would rather let the manufacturer give out!

    It will take the full drag or my Torsa and will have 65 lb braid.

    It will be a conventional spiral wrap and I don't know what guides will work till I get it bent over good. I think it is too moderate a bend to allow the American Rollers I wanted to go with. It supposedly bends all the way through the butt!

    This stick will be a tuna stick primarily for jigging after we hook up trolling. I expect to be able to take YF to 150, particularily if I get the rollers on it.

    I have witnessed other CTS sticks, all are light and gutsy. They are quite pricey but absolutely beautiful.

    Will keep you informed on the build.

    Randy reading your first post again, I dont think 65# will take 40 or 50# of drag. If the fish tried to run quickly it will probably either break off or break your rod.

    If you are going to be fishing that much drag you should have #100 or better. Also if that blank isn't rated for up to 130# you and count on it breaking if a big fish decides to take of and you try to use the rod to stop him.

    I have a buddy who has taken a yellowfin #175 and used drag around 22# at strike and it did not take very long to boat the fish (about 35 minutes). Why do you want to use so much drag if you are only hoping to for fish to #150?
     
  9. VaRandy

    VaRandy Site Sponsor

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    Mike..I realize that I would be the limiting factor for what drag max could be utilized. My reel (Torsa), line (65) and rod (test rod sustanined over 65 lb hanging free at 45 degrees). I agree that 22-25 is the most I could use.

    The rod, while capabile of much more, gives me some room for error up to the line breaking level. The blank at 6 foot is only 4 and 3/4 oz so I didn't have to carry a much larger stick than necessary for the job.

    My worst case scenario was big eyes overboard to stop them from sounding if possibile. That is why I wanted the capability. Other tuna will be in much shallower water and can be had by much lighter equipment.

    What size conventional rings would you recommend for the spiral build. It has a 9/64 tip and a moderate action at 6 foot.
    Thanx
     
  10. mike garone

    mike garone Well-Known Member

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    the # of guides depends on a static deflection test, but 7 or 8 should do it. I would go with a 20 stripper and then either 10 or 8 all the way down with a size 12 ring tip if you go with 10's and a 10 if you go with 8's. If you tie small knots then use the smaller guides because they will save weight. I usually use the simple spiral method, with just one bumper, but I am going to experiment with this rod and use 2 bumper guides. For your rod I woulf use one bumper guide because it is short and you want to line to get to the bottom side of the blank quickly.
     
  11. VaRandy

    VaRandy Site Sponsor

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    Hooray...now to pick out some components starting Saturday morning
     
  12. d-a

    d-a Senior Member

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    Thge smallest guide I would use would be a 16, try getting an albrights not tied with 100lb + through any smaller guides and you will understand why.

    d-a
     
  13. Ralph Kuo

    Ralph Kuo Member

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    New Zealand !! They do have some excellent game rods/blanks, but for jigging, you had better ask ChrisW first, he is the top jigging fisherman in NZ.
     
  14. VaRandy

    VaRandy Site Sponsor

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    to continue my quest for the perfect spiral jigger...
    Concerning the Fuji HBSG guides. Can it be used and if so would the interum guides have to have the guide turned around to avoid line hitting the wide flat spiral foot on one side?

    Thanx

    I would like to use a guide with that look but do not want to ruin its function.
     
  15. VaRandy

    VaRandy Site Sponsor

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    My 50-80 jigging blank has a .54 diameter at the butt. For reel seat choices, I want to be light as possible but not dump a high dollar reel overboard either fighting a tuna.

    Is there a carbon fiber reel seat that would take heavy pressure not too large for the diameter. I would like to find one that had the carbon fiber look as well.

    If I can't find that and have to pick a Fuji plastic seat, will they be a lot lighter than an aluminum reel seat such as an Alps triangle?

    Thanx in advance.
     
  16. ChrisW

    ChrisW Member

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    My 50-80 jigging blank has a .54 diameter at the butt. For reel seat choices, I want to be light as possible but not dump a high dollar reel overboard either fighting a tuna.

    Is there a carbon fiber reel seat that would take heavy pressure not too large for the diameter. I would like to find one that had the carbon fiber look as well.

    If I can't find that and have to pick a Fuji plastic seat, will they be a lot lighter than an aluminum reel seat such as an Alps triangle?

    Thanx in advance.

    Have you checked out that CTS blank you intend buying? The CTS jig blanks found in NZ are a moderate-fast taper, they are stiffer in the butt and don't fold away. Completely opposite to the parabolic Jigging Masters. The blanks are strong and light and more than enough for the Torsa. I don't think the additional weight of an alloy reelseat compared to a Fuji plastic one is a factor since the Torsa is one helluva heavy reel. You should check out ALP's new alloy reelseat for jigging. Has innovative finger grips underneath and no trigger, NICE :)

    Hey Ralph thanks for the comment. I'll be jigging with AG at the 3 Kings, NZ again in March next year. Expect some more monster yellowtail and Groupers again.
     
  17. VaRandy

    VaRandy Site Sponsor

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    I agree with your evaluation of the CTS jigging stick, but I didn't want a parabolic that tried to touch the butt with the tip. The one I just picked up is a 50-80 and I just ordered the 30-50 that falls beneath it.

    The Alps reelseat may well be my choice. What are the feelings about a trigger generally on a heavy jigging stick?

    I can't wait to get it my heavy one built!
     
  18. DEA

    DEA Member

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    Hey Chris you gotta link to that ALPS reel seat?

    Thanks!
     
  19. Taz575

    Taz575 Senior Member

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    Very nice!!! Nice threadwork, too!!