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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yesterday a friend who fishes for GBFT stopped by with some 200# Momoi Monfilament, which as a light tackle fisherman I'd hadn't yet used. As many of you know, this is stiff stuff compared to 80# and below. So I've got a few questions about guidelines for handling heavy Mono/Fluoro:

--At what test line between 80# and 200# do you crossover from knotting to crimping?

--A splice is good to 100%, a Bimini/Mid/Page Ranking to nearly that and most other knots reduce line strength by a third. How strong are crimps? (They look like a compression fixture line doubler, so are they 100% like a Bimini?)

--What is the biggest Mono/Fluoro that it is possible/practical to attach with a Mid or P.R. knot?

Thanks as always,
 

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Yesterday a friend who fishes for GBFT stopped by with some 200# Momoi Monfilament, which as a light tackle fisherman I'd hadn't yet used. As many of you know, this is stiff stuff compared to 80# and below. So I've got a few questions about guidelines for handling heavy Mono/Fluoro:

--At what test line between 80# and 200# do you crossover from knotting to crimping?

--A splice is good to 100%, a Bimini/Mid/Page Ranking to nearly that and most other knots reduce line strength by a third. How strong are crimps? (They look like a compression fixture line doubler, so are they 100% like a Bimini?)

--What is the biggest Mono/Fluoro that it is possible/practical to attach with a Mid or P.R. knot?

Thanks as always,

I regularly tie a PR knot on 200lb Jinkai, and can tie certain fishing knots in it as well but always crimp it.

I crimp all 200lb and higher, most 130 and higher. Some of the softer leaders like Varivas I will tie in 130-170lb.

When done properly crimps are 100% like the pr/mid not

d-a
 

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Pamet,
The knot/crimp/splice discussion continues :)

I would disagree whole heartedly that a crimp is 100%. However, it has been proven that aluminum crimps are much stronger than double sleeve copper.

As you said in the other thread nothing compares to the splice. I will say though for trolling applications I crimp everything over 80. Partially for speed. If I have to rig 60 hoo's for a day of trolling, i want them rigged identically so I can do them without thinking about it.
 

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Yesterday a friend who fishes for GBFT stopped by with some 200# Momoi Monfilament, which as a light tackle fisherman I'd hadn't yet used. As many of you know, this is stiff stuff compared to 80# and below. So I've got a few questions about guidelines for handling heavy Mono/Fluoro:

--At what test line between 80# and 200# do you crossover from knotting to crimping?

--A splice is good to 100%, a Bimini/Mid/Page Ranking to nearly that and most other knots reduce line strength by a third. How strong are crimps? (They look like a compression fixture line doubler, so are they 100% like a Bimini?)

--What is the biggest Mono/Fluoro that it is possible/practical to attach with a Mid or P.R. knot?

Thanks as always,

I crimp all mono and FC 80# and over. Been doing it for years. Just lost confidence in my knot-tying ability at that size and larger. New soft mono, like Varivas and Fisherman Stealth, may make me re-evaluate that. But I'm comfortable with my crimps and thats the key for me.

Not sure how a good crimp tests out, but I've NEVER had one fail. Like knots, though, you have to do it right. I suspect a bad crimp is just like a bad knot.

Btw, another advantage to crimping is you can use chafing gear. Very nice if you're putting tremendous pressure at the point where the line connects to your jig/hook.

Not sure what the limit is for a mid or Page Ranking knot, but I'm also sure Glenn used a PR with 200 lb. leader. Don't see any reason why that wouldn't work. In fact, due to the nature of the knot, not sure there is a limit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
D-a, Eastern, Tbaker, Thanks for the feedback. I've made a lot of decisions about how I'll rig this year (at least as I see things now) but I've bee thinking of the mono to terminal tackle connection for a while.

I don't want to tie a Bimini in that end since it's kind of big but I also realize that any knot I tie will reduce the leader strength by 1/3. If I go up in strength (65-80# or 80-100#) then I get less casting distance and importantly to me, less stretch for the same length leader.

Leadertec has some good crimping stuff and the 200# my neighbor brought over made me think this might be an alternative for the final connection--Crimp, chaffing and solid ring at the end of the leader.

Either that or I'll tie a knot and call it the fuse, knowing that's were the line will break--decisions, decisions.

Tbaker, how's the PR loop coming? (other forum)
 

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Its all about the leader ....

I cant use a stiff 200# leader and expect a good PR knot thats why all I use is soft shock leaders a they bite very well during teh knot tying. For Amberjack I tie a PR knot from 100# braid to 200# leader and have never popped a knot under any circumstance

Varivas and Jinkai is very soft and you can tie PR knots perfectly fine without any issues. 200# Momoi is too stiff therefore you will need to crimp
 

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Tbaker, how's the Page Ranking loop coming? (other forum)

Gotta do more testing. Its all about strength now. :)
 

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200# Momoi is too stiff therefore you will need to crimp

Hmm, got a bunch of 200# Momoi. Was gonna bring it down to NC in March. May have to re-think that. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Today I had some time so I experimented with the Momoi 200# Mono and 80# JB Spectra. As Gman said, the Momoi Mono felt hard as a rock. It seemed as if it was going to be impossible to get a Mid Knot to sink in.

The 200# Momoi was pretty hard to handle so I tied a loop in one end, hooked it over a bolt and pulled the line tight, clamping the other end to a block on the bench, putting the leader under tension. The under-wraps (first layer) were always space by at least one line diameter. All knots were lubricated before pulling. I formed an angle to the leader as I pulled the braid. I could not tie this anywhere but in the shop.

The first attempt was about 14 under-wraps and 18 top-wraps with a Uni stop knot. As I pulled up the knot, it seemed like it was going to take but then at 40 lbs. force or so, it started to slip.

The second attempt was 15 under-wraps and 20 top-wraps and half-hitches as the stop knot. This knot started to catch but also slipped.

The third try was with 15 under-wraps and only 12 top-wraps, using half hitches as the stop knot. This time, the knot formed fairly easily. I pulled on this knot to 75 lbs. of force and it has permanently sunk into the Mono. I have attached a photo below, you can see the bulging of the mono. I wouldn't not have guessed this was possible given the hardness of the material.

My observation is that the under-wraps to top-wraps form a sort of gear ratio. More under-wraps compared to the number of top-wraps seem to create a lower, more powerful gear ratio.

Photo in Next Posting
 
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