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Senior Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know titanium guides reduce rod weight, but was wondering if there are also high end reel seats and grips which are lighter in weight as I try to design a serious offshore jigging rod

basically, trying to get a sense for how much extra weight this will all add to the blank. Spinning rod will be used for jigging tuna in the 100# class.

Thanks
 

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best to ask your builder,
he should know what are the best choices.

and its all part of what you are paying for in a custom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
A local builder I spoke to (in MA) said, bluntly, customs are heavier than factory rods but they look nicer. I found that odd, so thought I would reach out to the experts here.
 

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Randy Bassinga
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Rod for rod he may actually be right. More glue in the customs seat. All the threads covered in finish. Right number of guides even if it means running more of em

The Fuji DPSD seats are the pinnacle of the lightweight strong seats. The Matagi EVA is the same where EVA is concerned. Fuji graphite arbors are the top of the tree when it comes to shims. Fuji also has real titanium winding checks, but plates and dress parts

I still haven't benchmarked gimbals. Will do a test one day to see what it takes to mangle and destroy a graphite Fuji, Perfection and a cheap Chinese one
 

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One thing to consider is balance. If you take too much weight out of the butt of your rod you could end up with a rod that's tip heavy. I can tell you from bassfishing were you can make hundreds of casts in a day that rod balance is just as important as rod weight.
 

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thats one thing we went over in class today.

we taught the guys about rod balance,
grip lengths. and a few other tips for making a better rod.
 

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Randy Bassinga
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I try to design a serious offshore jigging rod

Spinning rod will be used for jigging tuna in the 100# class.

Thanks

For the specific question that you have, Use the lightest and strongest parts and try for a neutral balance with the reel on. The parts I have listed are the high end ones as per your request. Remember you will have a hunk of jig hanging from the tip so butt heavy enough to counteract it somewhat
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
:cool: best to ask your builder,
he should know what are the best choices.

and its all part of what you are paying for in a custom.

was it wrong of me to ask this question on the site? I hope it wasn't bad form or otherwise inappropriate as a breach of trade secret.

Saga/mike f, thank you for actually answering my question.
 

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:cool:

was it wrong of me to ask this question on the site? I hope it wasn't bad form or otherwise inappropriate as a breach of trade secret.

Saga/mike f, thank you for actually answering my question.
absoutly not wrong to ask.
not many "secret" parts to use.

actually some of the rods you see all "blinged out"
could be a little heavier because of a few pieces of metal.

there are parts to use and ways to build that make a rod feel lighter.

one reelseat may be lighter than another.
size 18 compared to size 20
you may be able to cut some material off a reelseat to make lighter or fit better..;)
i did this for gman's rod.

using lighter gimbals.
using the lightest Ti guides
using very little grip material

all a good way to reduce weight.

some new stuff avail.
not even out yet.
going to be very light.
these are for superspecial rods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thank you. I see you have a website. Will take a look and consider whether it's worth a drive down trip from MA as I have a few rods I am considering and do not like the guy my neighbor used. Sometimes my work takes me to northern nj so I will be closer to your business if I have a business client trip.
 

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NETuna, I think the answer from the builder should have been "Customs may be heavier, but they are build correctly." Thats what my answer woud have been, anyway. I also think that anyone looking for a custom rod wants it built correctly and right and will sacrafice an oz or two for a job done right.

I know Paul, but won't speak for him. I don't think he was offended. It takes a lot to offend him! If he didn't have thick skin, he would have blown up at me years ago.


just my 2c.

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
NETuna, I think the answer from the builder should have been "Customs may be heavier, but they are build correctly." Thats what my answer woud have been, anyway. I also think that anyone looking for a custom rod wants it built correctly and right and will sacrafice an oz or two for a job done right.

I know Paul, but won't speak for him. I don't think he was offended. It takes a lot to offend him! If he didn't have thick skin, he would have blown up at me years ago.


just my 2c.

Kevin

an ounce or two wouldne fine for the right product. For what it's
worth, that has been the first mention of actual weight numbers in response to my initial question.
 

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SORRY NETUNA,
I WAS FOLLOWING THE THREAD AND GOT SIDETRACKED. THE REDUCTION IN WEIGHT WILL BE 1-3 OUNCES. NOT TOO EARTHSHATTERING, BUT CONSIDERING A SODA CAN WEIGHS 16OZ, EVEN 4 OUNCES IS A SIZABLE REDUCTION. WHERE YOU CAN GET SOME REDUCTION IS GRIP SELECTION, REELSEAT SIZE AND MATERIAL WILL REDUCE ALSO. THE SMALLEST REDUCTION IS IN THE GUIDE MATERIAL. TO SAY THAT TITANIUM IS THE WAY TO GO FOR REDUCTION IN WEIGHT IS NOT 100% ACCURATE IN MY BOOK. I LEAN TOWARD TITANIUM FOR CORROSION RESISTANCE FIRST, WEIGHT REDUCTION SECOND.

KEVIN
 

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Fuji Silicon Carbide w/gunsmoke frames are stainless steel corrosion resistant,and are 2nd best.
Check them out~


Fuji Gold Cermet w/ Solid Titanium frames are corrosion resistant,lightest in weight,strongest and smoothest,inhibiting the least line friction out of any ceramic inserts for maximum line sensitivity and achieves greatest casting distances,and also of course therefore the most expensive.
The Gold Cermet has the durability of metal combined with the hardness of ceramic.There is nothing better avail on the market today,and I have never seen them on any store boughts. If you used a top shelf graphite blank along with these guides, CORK grips and Fuji graphite seats I cant see what else you could do to make the rod any higher quality or far that sake any lighter.I really cant see where the guy can say the store boughts are lighter.Lighter is not "best" either in some cases of course.I think the alum seats will outlast the graphites and eva will outlast cork if your looking to have the rod for many years to come,so sacrifice of some weight comes into play therefore.
Check them out
Fuji Gold Cermet w Solid Titanium Frame~ $$$$
 

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Randy Bassinga
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Mr Tuna
You may also consider running Fuji TLCSG guides. They are very compact and will give less overall weight on that rod then an equivalant MN set. I would only recommend guides with recessed rings and the only such titanium frames with a suitable height for spin rods are these and the TKW pattern. I like the compact nature of the TLC and the strength over the TKW

I have seen very powerful jig and pop rods broken at the blank but never one with a damaged DPSD seat. I think the inbuilt flexibility of this seat is a good thing
 
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