Super Tuning a new Shimano Stradic 3000FJ in 3 Stages

Discussion in 'Reel Repair' started by LeoNYC, Jun 15, 2013.

  1. LeoNYC

    LeoNYC Fishing Guru

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    Hey guys Ive decided to upgrade and super tune Shimano's smaller yet pretty powerful 3000FJ Stradic. I know most of you guys seen my other threads with the 8000FJ,5000FJ and Shimano ELF 5000PG upgrades and will see a similar upgrade going on in this reel as well. The reason for posting up a 3000FJ is due to the overwhelming PM's I get regarding owners of the 2500-3000 Stradic FJ's asking about bearing kits and how to demo's for this size reel. Pretty much the same as the others though but here it goes !

    STAGE 1 Is the drag washer upgrade

    I will install a brand new set of Carbon Fiber drag washers and junk the stock felt washers. The 1000,2500,3000,4000,5000FJ's all have felt washers, the 6-8000Fj's are all Shimano Carbon fiber. This is probably the easiest and most effective mod you can do for your reel with minimal tools required. What you will need is a pair of tweezers to remove the retaining spring and some drag washer grease of your choice, however I used and recommend Cal's regular drag grease. OK now to do this you will need to remove the spring clip and remove the washers and keep note of the order of the washers so you don't reassemble in the wrong order, (see pic below for order ). Now don't over grease, I just take a small tap of grease and work it lightly into the washers between 2 fingers. Now assemble the reel and tighten the drag down to properly seat the washers and go fishing ! The benefits of these washers that im looking for is not more drag power which they actually provide. No what i'm looking for is more refined smoothness which these washers also provide, no more worries about jerky drags that can happen with felt washers. Tight lines,
    ---Lenny
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    Attached Files:

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  2. LeoNYC

    LeoNYC Fishing Guru

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    STAGE 2 Is the handle knob bearing install with 2 CRBB Stainless bearings.

    Now for upgrading the handle knob with 2 bearings and tossing out the factory nylon bushings. First you must use a very narrow flat head screwdriver and pry off the small round cap on the handle knob, and make sure you pry up a little on each side before you get it completely off. This will avoid any damage to the knob or knob cap that may happen by going full force on one side. Next unscrew the small screw holding the knob on and remove the screw along with the thin spacer/washer under it. In the pic below you will see the new bearings lined up with the old nylon bushings that are being tossed out. I added just 1 drop of Shimano factory oil to the new bearings before I installed them, then put it all back together. It spins way nicer and smoother and feels much stronger to have bearings instead of having plastic/nylon bushings in the handle knob under pressure while fishing.
    ---Lenny
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  3. LeoNYC

    LeoNYC Fishing Guru

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    STAGE 3 ,Oscillating slider bushing upgrade and rear worm gear bearing upgrade

    Im going to show you how to upgrade the oscillating slider bushing to a bearing and also add a bearing to the rear worm shaft by removing the stock nylon bearings. Step 1 :remove the Spool and rotor, and keep in mind with the 2500,3000,4000-5000FJ series that they are NOT put on righty tighty/lefty loosey lol, the hex nut is reverse threaded so righty loosey to avoid damage to either nut or pinion gear !!

    Step 2: Time to remove the Super stopper anti reverse bearing. Only remove the 3 larger screws from the area and pull the stopper straight off. Do NOT remove the 2 smaller screws as this is the cap to the stopper assembly and opening should be avoided as its loaded with tiny tiny springs that may pop out and disappear into the abyss of your house never to be found again !! So yea just the 3 larger screws please !!

    Step 3: Remove the 4 screws that hold on the sideplate, 2 are under the black rubber rotor brake which must be removed as well

    Take a look inside on how dry these reel come, I will be greasing/later on after the bearing swap.

    Now with the reel open flip it around to the back and remove the screw holding the rear worm shaft cover on, Notice the nylon bushing holding the worm shaft in its place, this will be swapped later on for a bearing. Now the reason to remove this cover now is to be able to remove the 2 guide pins that align with oscillating slider. With a tweezer remove the 2 sliders and pull out the spool shaft with pawl assembly attached.

    Before you remove the small screw holding the pawl cover on examine the assembly and even take the tweezer and see how freely the pawl moves in its position and even see if it has any play inside the assembly and take notes.

    Now go ahead and remove that small screw and you will see the Pawl, black bushing, and very small and fine white washer.

    Examine the pawl and notice that there is a smaller diameter tip on it, and also inside the black bushing there is a smaller side and larger side.

    Now the new bearing is way smaller then the stock black bushing so heres the very tricky part, You must grind with a dremel cutting wheel the bushing down to fit with the new bearing inside the assembly along with the little white washer.

    Go ahead and very carefully grind down the LARGER diameter side of the bushing and with a steady hand keep taking slight hairs off of it and check often that it will fit flush inside the slider assembly with the white washer inbetween the new bearing and bushing then cover.

    Make sure when you put all back together with the small screw that everything moves freely without resistance to avoid damage to either the pawl or most importantly the worm shaft.

    It is very very important that you take your time here and make sure it fits just right and not too loose or too tight, remember from the beginning before you started the grinding how this assembly felt before you opened it up. Everything should and will move freely and your all set ! TAKE YOUR TIME ! Also I used a small pin to remove any debris from inside the bushing hole from grinding the bushing down. You should just be able to pluck any nylon out of the hole/edges to prevent anything becoming tight when putting it all together.

    Now with all said and done put the newly modified pawl bearing assembly back inside and screw the small cover back on. I also added a drop on genuine shimano oil to the inside of the pawl on the blade side of the pawl and allowed it to soak up into the assembly/bearing.

    Go ahead and take the whole spool shaft assembly and reinstall everything back inside the reel body and align the pawl in the worm shaft groove.

    Now slide those 2 guide pin rails back inside the reel through the 2 openings in the back of the reel.

    Now its time to change out that cheap plastic bushing in the rear of the reel for the worm shaft. Pop that little sucker out and notice it has a small black washer attached to it, Don't lose this small washer as you WILL need to put it back infront of the new bearing.

    Put the bearing in and then I added a Stainless Hillman #6 split washer (Sold as Lowes in a bag of 6) on top of the bearing and the reason for this is so that the bearing is not pressed against the wall of the bearing cover. Now I had to shape and thin the washer a bit with the dremel as well to fit right. It allows the bearings inner racer to spin nicely as its holding the outer racer of the bearing. No put the small cover with screw and give the reel a nice coat here and there with some synthetic grease of your choice. I use this grease from Berkley that is 100% synthetic and sticks to the gears/parts better then the stock grease Shimano uses on their reels. I find the Shimano grease moves away from the parts as its more liquid/wet then the Berkley I use.

    As for the reel it went from a 6 bearing reel to a 10 bearing reel and now with extra synthetic grease and carbon fiber drag washers as well. These mods are very inexpensive and if those whom are interested in a parts package that includes all 4 bearings and carbon washers can shoot me a PM. Thanks for taking your time to read this and it was a pleasure for me to share it with you all. Enjoy all the pics below of the step by step ,Tight lines and take care,
    --Lenny DSC01871.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

  4. porcha

    porcha Broscientist

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    Great write up!
     
  5. LeoNYC

    LeoNYC Fishing Guru

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    Thank you ! I know im no Alan Hawk or Alan Tani or JohnT, Those guys kick ass with their write ups. But im glad to be apart of the show and tell community :) Great write up!
     
  6. Milkman

    Milkman Senior Member

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    Thx Capt Leo, just one question, once the bearing is added to the oscillation slider, just above the worm gear Pawl, what does this bearing "run" along? Does it run along the side of theframe itself? (ie. the lower part of the reel frame, facing down?) Which would make sense..and also add smoothness you would think..
    Without taking one apart, i can only guess this as what this bearing runs on...

    Thx in advance mate!
     
  7. LeoNYC

    LeoNYC Fishing Guru

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    The Pawl bearing sits inside the pawl housing and the entire spool shaft and pawl housing runs on up and down on 2 rails. The rear worm bearing sits in back of the worm gear. Thanks again,
    --Lenny

    Thx Capt Leo, just one question, once the bearing is added to the oscillation slider, just above the worm gear Pawl, what does this bearing "run" along? Does it run along the side of theframe itself? (ie. the lower part of the reel frame, facing down?) Which would make sense..and also add smoothness you would think..
    Without taking one apart, i can only guess this as what this bearing runs on...

    Thx in advance mate!
     
  8. oilpatch

    oilpatch Senior Member

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    Wish I had the patience to do that..hell I just took the "quick change cam" of a torsa off and lost $43 worth of parts never to be seen again! Great write up cap!
     
  9. LeoNYC

    LeoNYC Fishing Guru

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    Thanks Oil ! The hardest part is handling these tiny parts with big hands lol. Ive dropped quite a few parts during the making of this write up. Ohh the cursing and searching around the floor followed by " Hell yea ! "Found Ya F%%KER !" :)

    Wish I had the patience to do that..hell I just took the "quick change cam" of a torsa off and lost $43 worth of parts never to be seen again! Great write up cap!
     
    BloodyL likes this.
  10. Inspiro

    Inspiro Senior Member

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    Thanks Lenny
    Will do the 8k conversion soon
    I have one question, is the handle on the 8k the same as the 5k? are they interchangeable;my friend is complaining the short 5k handle

    Thanks again, and keep the good work coming
     
  11. LeoNYC

    LeoNYC Fishing Guru

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    Thanks Inspiro. Unfortunately the 5k and 8k do not have the same handle nor are they interchangeable due to different handle shafts. The 5k shares the exact same handle as the 4k just with a different knob. Here's one thing though, The 5k handle with its nice egg knob will fit perfectly on the 3k. I honestly hate the length of the 3k handle and hate its T handle knob yet really don't want to spend $55+ on a new 5k handle for it. The 5k handle is just slightly longer than the 3k handle and way more comfy, Maybe I'll buy one and dump the new 3k handle with the bearings included to re coupe the cost. Best,
    --Lenny

    Thanks Lenny
    Will do the 8k conversion soon
    I have one question, is the handle on the 8k the same as the 5k? are they interchangeable;my friend is complaining the short 5k handle

    Thanks again, and keep the good work coming
     
  12. LeoNYC

    LeoNYC Fishing Guru

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    Design change that im sure you guys will love this one. Well I decided to take one of the handles off of a 5000FJ I had laying around and swap it out on my 3k. Now the handle fits right on as is however the handle sleeve that it supplied with the 5k handle is longer and keeps the handle further away from the reel so that the knob does not impact the rotor or bail wire. Now using the 5k handle with its longer sleeve just looked a little funny on the 3k as it seemed like the handle was too far from the reel. So what I did was use the 3k's shorter handle sleeve and handle screw and put it on a 5k handle and what a perfect match for this reel. All you have to do is remove the one pin at the joint of the handle and swap out the handle shafts with knobs and presto ! Instant power knob for a 3k FJ !! Now I really love this little jigging reel ! Oh and lets not forget that I also did the handle knob bearing swap just like a regular 5k Fj too. Enjoy,

    ---Lenny

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  13. porcha

    porcha Broscientist

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    You got any 5-8k spinners for sale?
     
  14. LeoNYC

    LeoNYC Fishing Guru

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    As of now no, Sold one of my 8K's last week fully loaded with bearings and braid. If I come across any I'll hit you up.

    You got any 5-8k spinners for sale?
     
  15. viasat

    viasat New Member

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    Hello
    This is my first post here,and I want to ask you if the same set of Carbon Fiber drag washers and CRBB Stainless bearings from 3000fj fits to 1000fj also? Or I need a different size? Thanks lot!
     
  16. venxxxxx

    venxxxxx Junior member

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    Do you know if the drag knob on the 3000 and 4000 are the same ? As the shaft has same diameter?
    Thanks
     
  17. LeoNYC

    LeoNYC Fishing Guru

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    They are different sizes on both parts, also different part numbers too
     
  18. tjohnson

    tjohnson New Member

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    very nice and the info is great i pm you about more info
     
  19. fishingman88

    fishingman88 Member

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    Thanks for sharing Cap! Can't wait to try it on my 3K FJ :D
     
  20. tjohnson

    tjohnson New Member

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    Capt Leo just finished the up grade on both of my 3000s and it works great . Thanks for all the help . Ready to take on the 5000 next
    Thanks again.