Splicing Tuf Line XP 65#

Discussion in 'Tackle and Rigging' started by jureal, May 18, 2008.

  1. jureal

    jureal Senior Member

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    There has been much discussion on the internet boards that hollow spectra will not only decrease reel capacity but will decrease casting distance with a spinning reel. Tuf line XP has been much discussed as a good casting line for a spinner. I spooled my Stella 20000 today with the XP and found that I easily got 425 yds of 65# on it leaving me with enough for a short topshot. I took some 30# single strand stainless wire and formed a wire puller with it. I found that with a lot of patience, I could insert the wire puller into the XP ( yes it is called solid but has enough strands that it is possible to find the hollow core).
    [​IMG]


    You really have to inch it in with a lot of patience. Since this is a one time deal, it really does not matter that it took me about 1/2 hour to make the splice. Here is how you do it. You have to pull the spectra onto the wire puller a bit at a time and then push the wire into the spectra to complete the cycle. It is a slow process as the amount of progress is only about 1/32" at a time.

    [​IMG]

    This much took about 6 minutes to do. But before you know it, you have about 7 inches done and you can pull the 80 JB into the 65 Tuf Line XP. The rest is easy to do as the JB hollow is easily penetrated with the wire puller and the pulling of the Tuf Line XP into the JB Hollow is really easy. Just close the gap in the middle by pulling on both ends and you have the splice completed.

    [​IMG]

    The splice is so much superior to anything that you can do with knots and is 100% strong. Here it is all wound up onto the reel and ready for insertion of the topshot. I can finish up the topshot connection using either a serving or a Sato Crimp. Maybe even a nail knot serve that I did an earlier tutorial on.

    [​IMG]

    This is a true knotless system that gives me the advantages of the solid Tuf line XP and hollow spectra on the end to give me a knotless connection to a topshot of my choice. That 80 JB Hollow will take a topshot of up to 100# test.

    No need for the PR knot or the Mid Knot with this system.
     
  2. peterk814

    peterk814 Senior Member

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    jureal that is interesting. have you tried testing that knotless splice under a load? With so few strands id be afraid of the finger trap failing. Please keep us updated.
     

  3. d-a

    d-a Senior Member

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    Jureal

    Thats good to know that you can do that. Have you had a pr or mid knot fail?

    d-a
     
  4. rtran

    rtran Senior Member

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    Nice writeup. I will try it later on but I am testing the PR knot first.
     
  5. jureal

    jureal Senior Member

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    I never use the pr or the mid knot. Don't even know how to properly tie one yet. I will experiment with them just so that I know what it is all about but I have used the spliced spectra and the finger trap method for mono topshots for many years without one failure. Actually, the tuf line xp 65 is really well braided and appears to be at least 8 carriers. The tuf line xp 50 does not have as many carriers so the braid and the hollowness is suspect. I tried with the puller I used but it is tough to do. I will try later with a smaller od wire to see if that will help. I have some 20# wire around here someplace. The splice does not rely upon the finger trap so much. The two tag ends are set up so that 65# tag goes into the 80 hollow and the 80# hollow goes into the 65. They oppose each other so there is no where for slippage to occur. Unlike knots in the system, this one is almost seamless and the only thing that breaks up the seamless nature is the serve itself ( or sato crimp ). This system of inserting the mono does indeed depend on the chinese finger trap but this part is going into the 80# JB hollow so insertion is fast and easy to do. I sometimes use the loop to loop system but I want a seamless system and the best way is to go with the mono directly inserted into the hollow 80. I've been using this system for the past 10years with no failures. The only thing new is being able to splice that tuf line xp 65. I am going to use the tuf line xp 50 on my stella 8000 so I am hoping to be able to splice that 50 to 60 Blackwater hollow. The JB 60 hollow is tough to work on so I'll use a short piece of blackwater instead.
     
  6. bunile

    bunile Senior Member

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    That extra thick line in the end will help as the fish can be a little livley when brought close to the boat.
     
  7. Deep_Sea_Gull

    Deep_Sea_Gull Lifetime Supporting Members

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    The Jerry Brown solid core can be spliced like hollow core when patience is used. I just formed an endloop in the past. I am going to change my method. I like yours better.

    Thanks for sharing!
     
  8. jureal

    jureal Senior Member

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    You are welcome. Yes, I have often spliced the solid JB so that I can use up all those bits and pieces I always seem to end up with.
     
  9. pametfisher

    pametfisher Senior Member

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    There has been a lot of discussion about splicing solid to hollow. This technique is not easy and not something you'd try on the water, but if you can thread the "solid" spectra as he did, you can make a true line to line splice between solid and hollow.

    PF
     
  10. bigreddog

    bigreddog Member

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    Jureal,
    thanks for presenting the information very clearly. I did not even know that making a splice in solid was possible. There has been a ton of information about connections and materials here that I have not found in the sites I normally look at. Thanks to all.
     
  11. John_Madison CT

    John_Madison CT Senior Member

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    Pamet: Only you would figure this out. Incredible work. I also thought it was impossible.
     
  12. pametfisher

    pametfisher Senior Member

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    Pamet: Only you would figure this out. Incredible work. I also thought it was impossible.

    I wish I could take credit but I saw this post by Jureal earlier in the year. Here's a link to photos at the end of this thread:

    http://www.360tuna.com/forum/f76/solid-hollow-braid-connection-7157/index3.html#post75355

    It's hard to do but you don't have to do it often. The key is to push the braid onto the wire. (As opposed to trying to push the wire into the braid.) 6" will do it.