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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got my Souls Brabus 186 sinking lure yesterday, courtesy of JigNPop.com.

Wow, what a nice looking lure. Seems extremely well built, but the finish is out of this world.

OK, I'll need to put some hooks on her. What do you guys recommend? I have some TN-76's in 3/0, but are these too big?

How about a treble in the middle and a single 11/0 Gamakatsu Heavy Live bait hook on the back?

John
 

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Consider the "Nomad" style of rigging seen in these videos:

Rigging Stickbaits for casting and trolling

It allows a hook with a larger gap than comparable weight trebles plus less damage to the lure from hooks not in the fish. I tried rigging a Brabus with 2 size 9/0 SJ-41 hooks on the body but haven't been able to make it out to test the action. They recommend a single Owner Jobu in 9/0 for the tail of stick baits and 2 sizes bigger in a live bait hook seems about right. I might consider attaching the single rear hook with assist cord for more "twist leverage" resistance to further share my thoughts.

As above these are larger gaps than even 4/0 Owner St-66 trebles and would be especially good for a catch and release situation. If I was dead, dead set on killing a fish I would rig 4/0 ST-66 trebles in the hope I "wired" the fish's mouth shut with the hooks potentially shortening the fight. They are heavy however and do diminish the lure action some so you may have to go to 3/0 to get bit but if you can get away with it the extra gap and resulting bite of the 4/0 will provide some serious holding power.

The Nomad style is principally for GT fishing or any other application where they plan on releasing every fish as the singles damage the fish much, much less than trebles or, if you absolutely must have the larger gap for heavy weight monstas'.

ps Best advice I can give is rig them up with the largest you think applicable and cast them to check the action to see if it meets your needs. Bigger is better for more "bite" into the fish = less pulled hooks but too big deadens the darting and wobbling of all stick baits. One reason I got a few Brabus was to pull 4/0 ST-66 trebles at least part of the time as compared to Shibukis which simply cannot handle hooks that large and retain much action.
 

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I had looked at the Nomad rigging techniques and thought releasing a fish would be much easier. Also the hook ups with wide gap short shank hooks should be more solid. Only problem is I have only found the SJ41's in Au. Just can't bring my self to pay as much shipping as item price. Know of any where to get SJ 41 hook in USA?
 

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I had looked at the Nomad rigging techniques and thought releasing a fish would be much easier. Also the hook ups with wide gap short shank hooks should be more solid. Only problem is I have only found the SJ41's in Au. Just can't bring my self to pay as much shipping as item price. Know of any where to get SJ 41 hook in USA?

Any heavy duty live bait hook like the Owner Gorilla or Offshore should work just as well and have been proven to land Cow sized fish.

Kil Song may have some SJ-41s. I got the few I have from APS earlier in the year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What do you think of this?

Treble is a 3/0 TN-76. The single back hook (with extra split ring to orient it properly) is a 7/0 Mustad 7691S.



 

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What do you think of this?

Treble is a 3/0 TN-76. The single back hook (with extra split ring to orient it properly) is a 7/0 Mustad 7691S.





I don't know about the single mustad hook, but you still may drop your fish on the treble hook.

Here is what you need:

 

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I also like having a single rear hook on all my lures, I feel the hook up ratio is greater that way. Since I really like the shout Kudako 7/0 jigging assist hooks, I took a blowtorch and heated up where the shank meets the eye, then with a couple of pliers turn the eye sideways. Now I have a perfectly super strong rear hook that I can trust and without having to use an extra split ring. I hope that made sense.
 

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And yes, the other option would be what wadefisherman suggested which is the decoys. I also use the decoys but when they got tough to find, I tried the Shout method and it works great.
 

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I also like having a single rear hook on all my lures, I feel the hook up ratio is greater that way. Since I really like the shout Kudako 7/0 jigging assist hooks, I took a blowtorch and heated up where the shank meets the eye, then with a couple of pliers turn the eye sideways. Now I have a perfectly super strong rear hook that I can trust and without having to use an extra split ring. I hope that made sense.


An extra split ring means one more thing that can fail...I will have to try that with the Kudako..thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I could go with a larger 7691s, but I can also look at the Decoys as I like the shorter shank. Anybody know who has them?

The 7691s is a very very strong sharp hook though. I use it on all my offshore lures and spreader bars.
 

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I could go with a larger 7691s, but I can also look at the Decoys as I like the shorter shank. Anybody know who has them?

The 7691s is a very very strong sharp hook though. I use it on all my offshore lures and spreader bars.

I got those Single Decoy Trailing Hooks from PLAT They're not in stock right now for the larger sizes. The will have them in a couple weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks. I've orderd from PLAT before and it's suprising how cheap the shipping was and quickly you get this stuff from Japan.

I didn't see 'em on Kil's site, but maybe he'll answer here.
 

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I didn't see 'em on Kil's site, but maybe he'll answer here.
Decoy is on my list and I am going to get them, but it is not on my priority list as I have to order so many things now. Big order first. :)
I expect to get Decoy by January though.
 

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I also like having a single rear hook on all my lures, I feel the hook up ratio is greater that way. Since I really like the shout Kudako 7/0 jigging assist hooks, I took a blowtorch and heated up where the shank meets the eye, then with a couple of pliers turn the eye sideways. Now I have a perfectly super strong rear hook that I can trust and without having to use an extra split ring. I hope that made sense.


:) :) I have done similar things with all sorts of hooks, even modifying the shank of really thick tuna longline hooks for trolling rigs.

A quiet word of caution as a metallurgist in a previous life & from experience in testing modified hooks.

The steel used in hooks is an alloyed & heat treated steel to generate high strength .
If twisting the shank you need to twist over maximum length, BUT , you should not heat the bend in the gape to red hot, nor the eye .
Heating the shank reduces the strength gained from the original heat treatment in the hook manufacture.
This is not generally a problem in the strength requirement of the shank.
It is a problem in the bends where shear forces are high on a big fish.
Heat causes grain growth in the steel matrix and larger grains act as a stress concentrator .
Sure the bends will get hot when heating the shank itself, but its important not to let the steel in those bends get hotter than a very dull red at worst.

Hope that word to the wise helps.
 
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