shimano tiagra 16 rebuild - by request

Discussion in 'Reel Repair' started by alantani, Mar 14, 2007.

  1. alantani

    alantani Senior Member

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    to look at the schematic for this reel....

    http://mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/schematic.php?url=Shimano/Shimano%20ti%2016.pdf

    ..... you'd think that some engineer somewhere had waaayyyy too much time on his hands. lots of little pieces! but it's not impossible either.

    [​IMG]

    now, before we jump into this reel, let's talk about it first. the drags are greased carbon fiber. i consider them to be the industry standard. drag failures for greased carbon fiber are virtually unheard of. what about the bearings? shimano arb bearings are already open. with no shields to hold water in, the risk of bearing failure should be lower. shimano also has their own special grease bearings which is pretty good stuff. give the spool a spin. if the freespool is ok for the type of fishing you do, let's leave the bearings alone. how about drag range? i like a 30% drag setting. let's say you have 65 pound spectra and a 50 pound topshot. if this reel can give you 15 pounds of drag, you should be all set. straight out of the box, there is very little danger of reel failure because of salt water intrusion and subsequent corrosion. if the reel delivers, let's leave it be. or you could be like me and just be curious....

    want to open it up and take a peek inside? ok, let's start by greasing all the right side plate screws (key #601). you'll need a metric torx bit.

    [​IMG]

    back out the stand screws (key #528), one at a time, shoot in a bead of grease and re-install the screws.

    [​IMG]

    grease the rod clamp bolts (key #646 or 649)

    [​IMG]

    back out the left side plate screws (key #601 and 645).

    [​IMG]

    remove the left side plate assembly (key #644) and set it aside.

    [​IMG]

    the spool comes out cleanly and in one piece.

    [​IMG]

    note the orientation of the anti-reverse ratchet (key #529). it's easy to put on backwards.

    [​IMG]

    remove the cooling shield screws and washers (key #641 and 640).

    [​IMG]

    set the cooling shield (key #639) and pressure plate (B) (key #637) aside. remove the drag pressure plate screws (key #636).

    [​IMG]

    remove the drag plate (key #635). see the little springs?

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0345.JPG

    pull the out the drag plate springs (key #630) ....

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0346.JPG

    and set them aside, some place nice and safe.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0347.JPG

    the pinion shaft (key #625) has two cross pins (key #626) and a pressure plate spring (key #634).

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0348.JPG

    pull the pins and spring, then the drag washer assembly, and set them aside.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0349.JPG

    here's the pinion shaft (key #625) with bearing, bellville's and thrust washers in order. the white grease is shimano's bearing grease. this product is much lighter than the drag grease and works very well. cleaning out the bearings will improve freespool. if 30 seconds of freespool is not needed for your application, leave the grease in the bearings.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0350.JPG

    i opted to clean out the bearings.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0351.JPG

    i removed a thrust washer (key #42A), added two belleville pre-load springs (key #40A) and changed the stack of bellevilles from the stock configuration of "(())" to "((()))".

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0352.JPG

    to get the spacing right, i ended up moving that thrust washer to the left side of the spool....

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0353.JPG

    reinstall the cross pin.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0354.JPG

    now let's look at the drag washer.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0355.JPG

    add a thick coat of shimano drag grease.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0358.JPG

    wipe off all the excess.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0359.JPG

    until it looks dry.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0360.JPG

    re-install the drag washer assembly.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0361.JPG

    re-install the pressure plate spring and cross pin.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0362.JPG

    re-install the drag plate springs (key #630). a bead of grease is very helpful here.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0363.JPG

    reinstall the drag plate (key #635) and screws (key #636).

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0365.JPG

    regrease and clean the second drag washer assembly.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0369.JPG

    drop the drag washer assembly back onto the spool shaft.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0370.JPG

    check out the rubber gasket. this is similar to the system found in shimano tld series. when the lever is forward and the drag washer is engaged, the gasket locks up against the spool cap and the drag chamber is sealed to prevent water intrusion. like the tld series, you rinse off your tiagras while they are in gear.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0373.JPG

    grease the screw holes.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0374.JPG

    install the cooling shield (key #639).

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0375.JPG

    re-install the anti-reverse ratchet (key #529). the bearing spacer (key #642) and bearing thrust washer (key #567) are hidden under the grease.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0376.JPG

    more screw holes to grease.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0377.JPG

    re-install the side plate screws. the long one goes in at the 12 o'clock position.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0378.JPG

    done! here are the specs. not so bad for a non-blue printed reel!

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/101_0379.JPG

    see, that wasn't to bad!
     
  2. TeamOso

    TeamOso Senior Member

    485
    1
    Thanks alot for your great info, Im heading to roys to get them spring tomorrow.

    Thats exactly the reel I wanna get,
     

  3. SkeeterRonnie

    SkeeterRonnie Senior Member

    1,996
    42
    Slap a Bakers topless frame in the picture... and this little jewel is SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET!!!!!!!
    This is the one I have been "tinkering" with....
    [​IMG]

    My next step is to modify the handle with a couple extras I have laying around. I want something to grab onto, without having to pay another $50 for a T-Bar Lite.
     
  4. alantani

    alantani Senior Member

    453
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    ronnie, you want to try one of my handles?

    [​IMG]
     
  5. jaredchasteen

    jaredchasteen Senior Member

    418
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    Alan,
    Thianks for the pics i will try to look at my 50ws when piepuncher returns from the coast.
     
  6. SkeeterRonnie

    SkeeterRonnie Senior Member

    1,996
    42
    thanks for the offer Alan. I have about 3-4 off Penns and a TLD25 I think I may be able to modify one of them to fit. (arent Dremel tools GOD's gift to mankind!?!) lol. :)

    got the new handle installed. A TON better than the stock handle. Now I can have some crankin power!! LOL!. Same design as the handle pic on the right in Alan's picture.