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Senior Member
453 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
the shimano tekota 700 is a great trolling reel with a very solid levelwind assembly. heavily used models are plagued by drag failures and internal corrosion. the handle grip is also very small. we are going to changed out the stock drag washers for greased carbontex, bolt on a 4/0 kolekar handle grip, service the bearings and brush a light coat of grease on all of the non-exposed metal and graphite surfaces. you're really going to like the results. here's a link to the schematic - http://fish.shimano.com/media/fishing/techdocs/en/TEK700_v1_m56577569830498849.pdf and here is our reel.

when a reel is shipped to me for service, i need line on the reel to test the drags. in the case of a levelwind, i like to return the reel with the line and the leveler in sync. what i will do in this case is pull the line all the way over the left side and cut the line. when i'm done, i can wind the leveler over to the far left, find the end of the line, poke it through the leveler and i'm back in sync. pretty smart, huh!

back out the four left side plate screws (key #546).

remove the two piece left side plate (key #592) and cover (key #593).

here's the inside of the left side plate assembly.

remove idler gear "B" (key # 586), idler gear "D" (key #587) and the left side plate bearing (key #584).

this bearing measures 5 x 11 x 4mm. lube the bearing and the idler gears with xtreme reel +.

corrosion and salt build up are VERY SERIOUS problems with this series of reels. take the time now to brush in a light coat of grease onto all of the non-exposed metal AND graphite surfaces of this reel.

lube the right spool bearing with xtreme reel +. this bearing measures 7 x 14 x 5mm. to service this bearing, carefully press out the crosspin.


if you are going to cast with this reel, lube the levelwind assembly with xtreme reel +. if you are just trolling, you can use corrosion x or any oil that you wish.


this reel has an excellent feature, a stabilizer bar "A" (key #579) that will prevent the loss of the pawl cap (key #522).


remove the pawl cap (key #522).


lube the line guide pawl (key #47).


re-install the pawl (key #47), the cap (key #522) and stabilizer bar "A" (key #579).



install the left side plate (key #592) and cover (key #593). add a bead of grease to each screw hole.


reinstall the four left side plate screws (key #546).


give the spool a spin. nice, huh!


now for the right side plate. remove the handle nut plate screw (key #128).


remove the handle nut plate (key #557).


remove the 13mm handle nut (key #425).


remove the handle assembly (key #558).


see the hole in the drive shaft (key #571)? there is a click pin (key #295) that will shoot out in that direction. let's try to not let it shoot out into never never land. back out the star drag (key #559) and look for the click pin to pop out.


there it is.


remove the star drag washer (key #429) and the four drag spring washers (key #'s 430 and 431).


remove the bearing seal (key #433) and bearing thrust washers (key #481).


remove the two right side plate screws "B" (key #506).


remove the shorter right side plate screw "A"'s(key #560) and longer "B"'s (key #523).


line everything up and keep things in order.


carefully lift up the right side plate (key #561). some parts are going to stay with the side plate.



pull the roller clutch inner tube (key #564) out of the right side plate.


remove the drive shaft bearing (key #486). it measures 10 x 15 x 4mm.


remove the yoke springs (key #299).


there are two small thrust washers (no key #) that sit on top of the support shafts for the yoke springs. set them aside.



take a second for a quick survey. double dogs! very nice.


remove the drive gear (key #568) with drag washers.


spread out all of the metal key and eared washers (key #'s 565 and 567) and dartanium drag washers "A" and "B" (key #'s 566 and 569).


take a close look. this is what a very sticky dartanium drag looks like.


we're going to toss the old washers and install a set of carbontex drag washers from Pricing Information, SMOoOTH DRAG *** Can Stop Anything *** Toll Free: 888-206-4656.


let's clean up the base plate first.


pull the yoke plate (key #577), the yoke (key #300) and pinion gear (key #576).


remove the four anti-reverse pawl screws (key #305) and anti-reverse pawl keepers (key #306).


remove the anti-reverse pawls (key #303) and the anti-reverse ratchet (key #570).


take a look at the pawls (key #303) and make sure they are not banged up.


clean up the base plate and spread the grease around evenly with an old toothbrush.



these pins (no key #) require no servicing.


add the anti-reverse pawls (key #303) to the anti-reverse ratchet (key #570).


install the pawls and ratchet as a unit.


install the anti-reverse pawl keepers (key #306) and screws (key #305).


install the yoke plate (key #577).


add some xtreme reel + to the spool shaft to clean the grease off the shaft and leave a coat of teflon.


the yoke (key #300) has to be installed "bevelled side" down.


install the yoke (key #300) and pinion gear (key #576) as a unit.


install the thrust washers (no key #) on top of the yoke springs supports.


install the yoke springs (key #299).


let's rebuild the drag stack. slap a coat of drag grease on all of the carbontex drag washers.


keep the fiber and metal washers in their original order. metal washers alternate "keyed, eared, keyed."


install the roller clutch inner tube (key #564).


take an old toothbrush and spread an even coat of grease on the inside of the right side plate (key #561).


add a bead of grease to each screw hole in the base plate.


install the right side plate. make sure that the yoke plate (key #577) is "up" and that the clutch lever (key #562) is in the forward or "in gear" position.



install the six right side plate screws "A" (key #560), "B" (key #506) and "C" (key # 523).



install the drive shaft bearing (key #486), pack it with grease first.



install the bearing seal (key #433) and bearing thrust washers (key #481).


install the four drag spring washers (key #'s 430 and 431) and star drag washer (key #429).


install the click pin (key #295). the click spring (key #296) should already be inside.


push the click pin down and insert a toothpick into the drive shaft to hold the pin in a down position.


install the star drag (key #559).


turn the star drag (key #559) down until it clears the shoulders of the drive shaft (key #571).


install the drive shaft shield (key #427). this was not shown during tear down.


now we're going to drill out the old handle grip and bolt on a new kolekar grip. this dot on the rivet will help.


use a 3/16ths inch drill bit to drill out the rivet.





compare the old grip to the new one.


use a 1/8th inch hex drive for this 10-32 hex socket cap screw.


changing out the handle grip is a very important part of this upgrade.


install the new kolekar handle.


install the 13mm handle nut (key #425) and handle nut plate (key #557).


install the handle nut plate screw (key #128).


and done!!!!!!!!! a quick check of the freespool shows that the line leveler will travel the width of the spool three times before stopping.


oops, not quite done. crank the handle until the line guide (key #574) travels to the far left, find the tag end of the fishing line, poke it through the line guide and tie it off.


ok, now we're done!


Junior member
7 Posts

I have a Tekota 700 reel, currently with factory equiped washers. Supposedly right now, I get 24#'s of drag as is.

Because I don't know, I'm going to ask the dumb question. What difference or improvement do the Carbontex washers actually make?
Do you get increased #'s of drag? If I get 24 #'s now, how much more will I get on this reel with carbon washers?

I went by a local reel shop and asked if they were familiar with the carbontex upgade to get some information. The first thing he asked me is how many times do I fish with this reel? I told them I might go on a just handful of trips where I actually break out the Tekota 700 per year. They said they wouldn't recomment the upgrade. But I go fishing all of the time, carbon washers may be a good thing.

They said the carbon washers require upkeep and greasing more often than the factory washers, and if I only use the reel a few times a year, it's not worth the investment or care required. The guy was really adament on the importance of keeping the carbon washers covered in grease at all times...and made it sound like I would need to regrease the carbon washers after every use to keep them from drying out or cracking...or whatever it is that happens to carbon washers if neglected. I think he was trying to explain something about the grease drying out if the reel is not used that often as the reason not to go with carbon, being understood that carbon relies more on grease than the factory set.

I'd appreciate it if you would take the time to explain what notable differences the carbon washers would make and if the reel is seldomly used if you would concur with the tackle shops advice on staying with the factory set.


Senior Member
453 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
this "wet drag" system involves the use of a pure teflon grease and a carbon fiber drag washer. the grease can be shimano's drag grease, or cal's drag grease or any number of available pure teflon greases out on the bicycle market. cal sheets did a fair amount of research and picked one in particular. i've been using is for a few years and have been very happy with the results. at $25 a pound, it's not cheap, but the stuff lasts forever.

the second component of a "wet drag" system is a coarsely woven carbon fiber drag washers. pretty much everyone is using them now. once greased up, these drag washers last forever. that's right. single application. single upgrade. done. that's it. done. as in never again, ever. it allows for a perfectly smooth drag with zero start up. it will allow you to set a drag to 5 pounds using a 5 pound weight. you can hang a lead weight from the rod tip and back off the drag until the weight drops one foot every 5 seconds. THAT is a smooth drag. something that dartanium has a hard time doing.

have your local shop owner take a look at this. Pacific Coast Sportfishing Blogs he may find some topics of interest. thanks! alan

Senior Member
969 Posts
Great thread Alan ! I own 3 of these Tekotas and your post just may give me the confidence to crack them open myself.

BTW guys, Alan installed the Kolekar handle on my two Avets, and they're very nice. I highly recommend them.


Senior Member
1,334 Posts
John, don't forget the hammer on those!!! I tried to do the drags on them, I think we got 1 done? The others ones we couldn't get the handle off due to the corrosion and gunk! The hammer freed one of them! I can't remember if the 600 has double dogs on it or not; I'll have to pop it open for the cleaning this year and will check it then. I have a 800 that I upgraded the drag on and can pull over 24# with it!
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