shimano tekota 500 LC rebuild

Discussion in 'Reel Repair' started by alantani, Apr 26, 2009.

  1. alantani

    alantani Senior Member

    453
    4
    i've always thought of the shimano tekota series of reels as the blue collar version of the calcutta. the shifting mechanism of the calcutta was always the problem. the tekota design addressed that issue very nicely. here is the schematic

    http://fish.shimano.com/media/fishing/techdocs/en/TEK500lc_v1_m56577569830498843.pdf

    and here is our reel. this particular customer wanted to leave the handle stock, so we will be lubing the bearings and replacing the drag washers.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    remove the four left side plate seal screws (key #546).

    [​IMG]

    remove the left side plate (key #543) and cover (key #544) as a unit. take a moment now to add a light coat of grease to then inside of the cover and the outside of the left side plate. an old toothbrush works well here.

    [​IMG]

    remove, clean and lube the idler gear "B" (key #533).

    [​IMG]

    remove the left side plate bearing (key #484). this bearing measures 4 x 11 x 4mm.

    [​IMG]

    clean this bearing out and lube it with the lube of your choice.

    [​IMG]

    reinstall the left side plate bearing (key #484) and the idler gear "B" (key #533).

    [​IMG]

    remove, clean, lube and reinstall the idler gear "D" (key #541).

    [​IMG]

    clean off the extra grease from the left spool shaft.

    [​IMG]

    lube the right spool bearing (no key #). this bearing measures 6 x 12 x 4mm. go to bearings for information on servicing this bearing.

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_10_55_40_1.jpeg

    we need to clean and lube the levelwind assembly, including the line guide pawl (key #520).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_10_55_42_2.jpeg

    to remove the pawl cap (key #522), you have to remove the stabilizer bar "B" (key #529).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_10_55_45_3.jpeg

    remove the pawl cap (key #522).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_10_55_47_4.jpeg

    clean and lube the line guide pawl (key #520)

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_08_36_0.jpeg

    clean the worm shaft (key #530) with carburator cleaner and compressed air, then lube it.

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_08_39_1.jpeg

    install the line guide pawl (key #520).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_08_41_2.jpeg

    install the spacer (key #521).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_08_43_3.jpeg

    install the pawl cap (key #522).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_08_45_4.jpeg

    install the stabilizer bar "B" (key #529).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_18_18_0.jpeg

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_18_20_1.jpeg

    install the left side plate (key #543) and cover (key #544).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_18_25_3.jpeg

    add a small bead of grease to the screw holes and small amount of grease around the hole.

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_18_27_4.jpeg

    install the four left side plate screws (key #546).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_23_21_0.jpeg

    now for the right side of the reel. start by removing the handle nut plate screw (key #128) and handle nut plate (key #261).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_23_24_1.jpeg

    remove the 13mm handle nut. a 7/16ths inch wrench works here as well.

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_23_26_2.jpeg

    remove the handle assembly (key #504) and the drive shaft shield (key #264) not shown.

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_23_29_3.jpeg

    remove the star drag (key #357). there is a click pin (key #295) that is going to shoot out from underneath the star drag. it will be coming from the "hole" side of the drive shaft (key #515). point it down and don't worry if you loose it. it is not critical.

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_23_31_4.jpeg

    ok, the star is off and the pin was pointed down.

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_32_04_0.jpeg

    there's the pin (key #295).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_32_06_1.jpeg

    remove the two drag spring washers (key #358) and star drag washer (key #250).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_32_08_2.jpeg

    remove the bearing seal (key #360) and (in this case) the three bearing thrust washers (key #359).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_32_10_3.jpeg

    remove the pair of right side plate screws "B" (key #506).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_32_13_4.jpeg

    remove the pair of shorter right side plate screws "A" (key #505) and the pair of longer right side plate screws "C" (key #523).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_36_17_0.jpeg

    keep everything lined up.

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_36_19_1.jpeg

    remove the right side plate (key #507). several pieces with stay with the side plate when you pull it out. first, remove the handle bearing (key #487)

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_36_21_2.jpeg

    remove the roller clutch inner tube (key #489).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_36_23_3.jpeg

    take a moment to survey the landscape.

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_36_25_4.jpeg

    remove the main gear (key #512) entire drag stack.

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_40_50_0.jpeg

    don't loose track of the drag washer "A" (key #513) hidden underneath.

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_40_52_1.jpeg

    i've cleaned up the main gear (key #512) and washers (key #'s 509, 510, 511 and 513), then set them out in order. below are the carbontex washers that are going to replace them.

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_40_54_2.jpeg

    slap a thick coat of grease on the new carbontex drag washers. it is more important to not miss any spots. don't worry about the excess. it will just squeeze out the sides.

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_40_57_3.jpeg

    check the anti-reverse pawl (key #382). make sure it is grabbing properly.

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_40_59_4.jpeg

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_48_15_0.jpeg

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_48_17_1.jpeg

    rebuild the drag stack.

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_48_19_2.jpeg

    install the roller clutch inner tube (key #489).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_48_24_4.jpeg

    take a moment to brush a light coat of grease inside the right side plate (key #507).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_55_13_0.jpeg

    make sure the yoke plate (key #381) is in the "up" position.

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_55_15_1.jpeg

    push the clutch lever (key #508) forward to the "in gear" position.

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_55_17_2.jpeg

    put a bead of grease in all the screw holes.

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_55_19_3.jpeg

    install the right side plate screws "A" (key #505) and "C" (key #523).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_31_03_09_11_55_21_4.jpeg

    install the right side plate screws "B" (key #506).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_01_04_09_12_01_09_0.jpeg

    check the function of the clutch lever (key #508) and make sure the reel goes in and out of freespool.

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_01_04_09_12_01_11_1.jpeg

    pack the handle bearing (key #487) with grease. this bearing measures 8 x 12 x 3.5mm.

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_01_04_09_12_01_14_2.jpeg

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_01_04_09_12_01_18_4.jpeg

    install the bearing seal (key #360).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_01_04_09_12_07_02_0.jpeg

    install the bearing thrust washers (key #359).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_01_04_09_12_07_04_1.jpeg

    install the drag spring washers (key #358) in a "()" configuration, followed by the star drag washer (key #250).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_01_04_09_12_07_07_2.jpeg

    install the click pin (key #295). the click spring (key #296) should have stayed put during the entire rebuild.

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_01_04_09_12_07_11_4.jpeg

    grab a toothpick.

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_01_04_09_12_11_33_0.jpeg

    push the click pin (key #295) down as far as it will go and shove a toothpick down into the drive shaft (key #515). the tooth pick should hold the click pin in place. just in case it slips, point the click pin off in a direction that won't launch it into never never land.

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_01_04_09_12_11_35_1.jpeg

    install the drag star (key #357).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_01_04_09_12_11_38_2.jpeg

    turn the drag star (key #357) down until it clears the shoulders of the drive shaft (key #515).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_01_04_09_12_11_42_4.jpeg

    install the drive shaft shield (key #264).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_01_04_09_12_16_17_0.jpeg

    install the handle assembly (key #504).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_01_04_09_12_16_19_1.jpeg

    install the handle nut (key #262).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_01_04_09_12_16_21_2.jpeg

    install the handle nut plate (key #261) and add a bead of grease to the screw hole.

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_01_04_09_12_16_23_3.jpeg

    install the handle nut plate screw (key #128).

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_01_04_09_12_16_25_4.jpeg

    and you're done!

    http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_01_04_09_12_20_31_1.jpeg

    now for a couple of comments. i really like this reel. i hate the drag washers and i hate the handle grip, but otherwise i really like the reel. salt tends to accumulate inside these reels so you need to spread the grease around inside. shimano's open bearings are more resistant to rust because water does not tend to settle inside of them. the levelwind mechanism is much more sturdy than the levelwind assembly in the penn gt series. once you change out the drag washers, change the handle grip and grease everything up, you've got a great reel. i personally have a full set of penn 320 gt2's, but, if you don't mind the increased price, the shimano tekota is an excellent choice.
     
  2. Taz575

    Taz575 Senior Member

    1,334
    9
    I have a Tekota 600 I did the Ctex upgrade to. I can pull 24# + of drag with it, not locked down, no ARB failure :). I know guys using the larger models for wire line fishing, the levelwind makes it much easier on newbs :)
     

  3. John_Madison CT

    John_Madison CT Senior Member

    971
    21
    I'm a huge fan of the Tekota series. They've worked their way to the very top of my inshore reel list.
     
  4. alantani

    alantani Senior Member

    453
    4
    got a nice response at shimano tekota 500 LC rebuild - The Hull Truth

    Great thread. We have a pile of 50W trolling reels that I have rebuilt almost annually for 8 years. The only time I have had to replace parts was when a HOT marlin broke a few screws. With 2 boats, at some point you get so much gear that something doesn't make it to the cleaning table. I have neglected 2 Tekota 700 reels, and have never opened them. After seeing this thread, I went home and cleaned them. I was very impressed that they were both still working, but very dissappointed in the amount of grease that was put on them from the factory. I really like the reels. If I buy new ones, I will immediately open them and add some grease and corrosionX. Were do you get the carbontex washers? How much? Is that Shimano drag grease you are putting on them? Thanks.

    Sorry for the pic quality. It is from a camera phone. This is after 4-5 years of moderate use, with nothing but a shot of fresh water when they get off the boat. I should have my ass kicked. They still work 10 times better than my old Calcutta 700 reels. Those died after 3 years with annual cleaning.


    [​IMG]
     
  5. pametfisher

    pametfisher Senior Member

    1,387
    30
    I'm about to sit down and rebuild a couple old Penn 49Ls. They are very similar in structure and this will give me a better idea than I've had in the past about what to oil and what to grease, so a big Thank You from me.

    I've read a lot of your posts and have been meaning to ask you about your position on greasing drag washers, which I've read and understood. The thing I can't quite square away in my mind is, if the drag is like a car's disk brake, and if brakes are better when they're very clean, no dirt or grease whatsoever, why can a reel's drag work better with grease? This perplexes me, it seems like grease would make it a less good brake.
     
  6. alantani

    alantani Senior Member

    453
    4
    i'm not sure they work better with grease, but i do know that they last longer. the problem is hydrocarbon-based oil or salt water intrusion. we all know that this will cause a carbon fiber drag washer to fail. the failure rate is 100%. pure teflon grease prevents sticking. that's the goal. car brakes are a high speed/high temp application. a fishing reel is about as low speed an application as you will ever find.

    to answer this question yourself, run one reel with wet drags and the other dry. it's simple enough to do, then let us know how it works out. i'm guessing you will get your answer quickly. alan:D
     
  7. pametfisher

    pametfisher Senior Member

    1,387
    30
    i'm not sure they work better with grease, but i do know that they last longer. the problem is hydrocarbon-based oil or salt water intrusion. we all know that this will cause a carbon fiber drag washer to fail. the failure rate is 100%. pure teflon grease prevents sticking. that's the goal. car brakes are a high speed/high temp application. a fishing reel is about as low speed an application as you will ever find.

    to answer this question yourself, run one reel with wet drags and the other dry. it's simple enough to do, then let us know how it works out. i'm guessing you will get your answer quickly. alan:D

    Thanks for the reply, I've been hoping to get your thoughts on this.

    Your answer makes sense for cooler temperature drag applications. Since I have two 49Ls (for Striped Bass fishing) that I'm servicing, I will do as you suggest and try and make some comparisons. I also have three 704Z spinning reels (Blues/Bass) that I'll be servicing and will try and compare them too. I've got some drag grease that came with a Shimano Stradic, is that the type of grease you recommend or should I go get some Cal's before servicing the reels?

    As to the bigger Shimano and Penn reels for tuna fishing, the models I've run suggest that the steel washers get quite hot on a 200 yard run at 20 pounds of initial drag. Here's where I've gotten to Fishing Reel Drag Heat. I believe that Shimano greases the Stella drag washers but I've noticed that Penn doesn't seem to. One other question, do you know what the drag washer material is in the Stella 20000 FA? (The Penn 950SSM is carbon fiber.)
     
  8. alantani

    alantani Senior Member

    453
    4
    shimano's grease melts at 300 deg F, cal's grease melts at 500 deg F. i've never seen steam coming out of a reel and water boils at 212 deg. either grease should be fine. not sure what type of drag material shimano uses in their spinners. the big one underneath the 2000 should be carbon fiber. alan
     
  9. pametfisher

    pametfisher Senior Member

    1,387
    30
    shimano's grease melts at 300 deg F, cal's grease melts at 500 deg F. i've never seen steam coming out of a reel and water boils at 212 deg. either grease should be fine. not sure what type of drag material shimano uses in their spinners. the big one underneath the 2000 should be carbon fiber. alan

    I think you don't see steam because there's very little water in the compressed confines of the drag washer stack. The temperatures surely exceed 212 degrees F after a 200 yard run at 20 lbs. drag.

    Thanks for the info on the grease temp, that's helpful. I love the detail and specifics in your posts they are really great.

    PF