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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So for you guys (especially shre...I mean MRBILL.) What drag setting compared to rod class do you ussually see the rods break at.
Like a 20-50 break where?
30-80?
60-130?
ANd so on.
I know there is not an exact measure, but what would be a close guess be...?
I want to do some ift tests before my next trip. I want to push the rods pretty close to the limit but don't want to break them before I play...
 

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If a rods worth anything, it should take one third of its max rating for hours. They usually snap at 50% of their rating. In other words, a 80 pound class will snap with 40 to 45#s. No body knows this more than me. I've busted many playing games on the water, and also on fish. Once you bust it, just toss it overboard or burn it. (Fiberglass stinks when it burns)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That is really the best answer I could have asked for.
I got a calstar 30-80 to go with my JB 6 Reel and I was really wanting to put it to the test and I mainly want to use the combo for targeting big AJS and Grouper.
I broke my last "AJ" rod last year. It needed to break. I should have bought a better one to begin with and that fish would be in the boat.
 

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The rating is a just reference.
We have been using Gloomis tuna jigging rods rated only upto 40 lbs, but as far as I know nobody broke the rod while fighting tuna past 10 years even we use 20 - 25 lbs drag

On the other hand, I've seen some rods rated to 100 lbs break only on 20-25 lbs drag.

When I fished GT in Fiji, one brand new rod from Hawaii got broken on just above the reel seat while fighting a nice GT though the rod is designed for GT.
Menwhile lighter Korean rods which were not designed for GT showed resilience while fighting a big GT.
 

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And, many times a new rod may have some sort of flaw in the blank and it will break the first time pressure is applied.

I've also had all graphite rods break using them after they had gotten nicked or banged around from trip to trip or from not storing them correctly between trips.

That's why I've learned that when I find a rod that really performs well for what I want it to, I make sure I take care of it all of the time.

It's kind of like going through a lot of putters or drivers until you find that right one! LOL
 

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If a rods worth anything, it should take one third of its max rating for hours. They usually snap at 50% of their rating. In other words, a 80 pound class will snap with 40 to 45#s. No body knows this more than me. I've busted many playing games on the water, and also on fish. Once you bust it, just toss it overboard or burn it. (Fiberglass stinks when it burns)

Gunsmoke: When you say "80 pound class" in your example, do you mean a rod with a maximum line rating of 80 pounds or one with 80 in the middle of it's line rating (such as, say, 40-130)?

Thanks,

Russ
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I realize that there are some variables here. I was really just taling about a basis to go off of.
Heres an example. I have a Calstar 30-80lb rod. I am going to put the JB reel on it and was wondering if I turn the drag way up if the thing was going to likely snap. I think it will be fine. I don't think I can handle the full drag of that reel for any length of time anyway...

On the other hand I am starting to worry that my avet jx might break the 20-50 lb rod. I guess anything can happen...
 

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Gunsmoke: When you say "80 pound class" in your example, do you mean a rod with a maximum line rating of 80 pounds or one with 80 in the middle of it's line rating (such as, say, 40-130)?

Thanks,

Russ

I'm from the old school. I don't like the way they market these new rods. They will put a rating of 50-100 on it so the buyer thinks he can multi task the rod with different reels. I like a true IGFA class rated rod.

For instance I love the Ian Miller hi leverage trolling rods with bent butts. Even though they are 7'7" they are stump pullers. When you get a 130 pound Ian Miller, it will easily fish 130 pound class line. Expect that rod to hold about 80 to 90 pounds of constant drag before you hear a snap. These aren't for stand up fishing. Chair fishing only. They do make a fine short stroker series for stand up fishing. They are very expensive but well worth the money.

Chair fishing is a different ball game than stand up fishing. You never let your hands touch the rod. Left hand on the top of the reel for thumbing the line on straight. Right hand for cranking. Your legs do all the work. The combination of your leg power with a bent butt is amazing. It's easy to maintain 50 to 60 pounds of drag in a good chair.

To answer your question. I would have to say that a 50-100 rated rod is really a 80 pound class rod. Probably shouldn't be fished with more than 27 pounds of drag.
 

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To answer your question. I would have to say that a 50-100 rated rod is really a 80 pound class rod. Probably shouldn't be fished with more than 27 pounds of drag.

One other thing that I would like to add to this is some brands and even some series within a brand may fish better at one end of the range scale than the other. Here are some general guidelines IMO of standup and casting rods/blanks:


brand -> model/series -> sweet spot
Calstar -> graphiter -> middle to slightly above middle
Seeker -> black steel -> middle -- seeker has one of the most accurate rating
Seeker -> super seeker -> Slightly above
Penn -> tuna stick -> lower third
Hastings -> gusa -> upper third


SpecialK, your Calstar 760L will be a fine 50# to light 60# rod and should handle 17-20# of drag w/o issue.
 

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There is a limit to almost every rod. Watch this video of a guy that weights around 265 pounds using the rail on his knees with a 200# cow on the other end. I'm surprised the big bang didn't happen earlier in the battle. This is west coast style. When the day comes that I get on my knees and don't even try to keep the tip towards the fish I will stop fishing.

Bending a rod beyond it's design along with it twisting left and right is a sure sign of disaster.

YouTube - Seeker XXH
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
That is lame. I am one of the smallest guys I know. I would never use the rail like that... Why don't you just tie it to the boat and drag it around until its dead...

Txseadog, I have the 765L 30-80 and the 700m 20-50. I was really wondering if I should worry about the avet jx pulling enough drag to break the 700m.
 

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Txseadog, I have the 765L 30-80 and the 700m 20-50. I was really wondering if I should worry about the avet jx pulling enough drag to break the 700m.

I wouldn't worry about breaking it with a JX - you might bottom it out though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well Im going to give it hell anyway.
I want to get another 30-80 lb to use as a backup. That way if it does snap I wont ahve to worry about the other as much...hopefully.
 

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Hey, tie it to the boat?... well us west coaster's would probably use velcro and it would have to be colr co-ordinated but yeah, I see that method coming out soon this summer, velcro the blue/black rod to the rail and drag race to the shore !!! Totally rad dude !!!HIGH-FIVES ALL-AROUND!!!
 

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some brands and even some series within a brand may fish better at one end of the range scale than the other. Here are some general guidelines IMO of standup and casting rods/blanks:

Penn -> tuna stick -> lower third



I have a penn tuna stick 50-130. Following your rule of thumb, should I not fish it much above 40# drag (130/3=43)? Or, are you saying I should fish drag according to the low end of the range class (i.e. like it was an 80# class rod, which is lower third of the 50-130 rating), so rule of 1/3 drag, would be closer to 27# drag?

Just curious, as I don't use this rod much (it has a tiagra 50w on it) and have never come close to maxing it out the few times I have fished it. What drag setting max should I expect to fish without pushing it to its limits?
 

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I'm guessing neither MrBill or SpecialK have caught a 200lb pound tuna on a Longrange boat. :rolleyes: Its a legit technique and that guy is not doing it correctly. You are supposed to follow the fish while its circling.
 

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I'm guessing neither MrBill or SpecialK have caught a 200lb pound tuna on a Longrange boat. :rolleyes: Its a legit technique and that guy is not doing it correctly. You are supposed to follow the fish while its circling.

Hard to follow a fish on your knees. Like I said above in this thread. Point the tip toward the fish. I should have added "And stand on your feet like a man".
Go to church if you want to spend time on your knees.
Also, the video says that's a 200# cow. WRONG. I would guess that tuna to be about 150.
 

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You are supposed to follow the fish while its circling.
I don't follow your logic. Tuna rarely makes run when circling. You mean to jump into the water to follow fish. :)
 
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