Madday, Its all pangas here. either ply or copies of the old Yamaha glass. Not bad boats at all. Just not all that well suited for standup fishing like heavy popping as they not that much wider then my boat. Next build will be a 30' cat with 14' beams, dedicated GT chasermadday said:saqa,
congrats for nice day man....
and i noticed many times panga appeared in your pics.... isnt it quite reliable for offshore fishing to distant reef...???
in bali island, we have a lots of yamaha panga that will plane with only 40HP loaded with 8-10 person.... quite a design....
Mate she is only 1.1m waterline beam and the heel is as I had expected it to be from the calculations when designing the hull. My 100kg leaning on the gunnel is actually not bad for 1m beam as it doesnt get into the tipping zone. I am thinking that a pair of pods will totally eliminate that if required an dprovide other benefits like increased planing surface. I am currently playing with adding the pods on as a stabilised monohull platformCDB said:You might want to experiment with some ballast to address the tippiness. Weight placed low, on the centerline will lower your center of gravity and should help stabilize the boat, to a point. Do you have access to cinder blocks or other heavy weights that you can measure the weight placed in the boat? What I'm thinking is find a nice quiet area with no waves. Mark your water line fore, aft and amidships. Then take your weights and put them dead center. You will probably need about 500 KG or preferably about 1000 kg. Then load the boat in the center, move the weight forward, move the weight aft. Mark your waterline each time to see how it affects the trim and overall displacement. This will help you several ways. One it will give you a good idea how much weight the vessel can carry, how it reacts to the weights and where to put them (i.e. passengers in the future) for your trim characteristics. You can also experiment with ballasting. Put some weight on the centerline. Then place about 150-200 KG as close to the gunnel as you can, or even build a platform to rest on the gunnel and gradually add weight. Mount a pendulum on the centerline and you can measure the angle of the list as you add weight. You can also play with the ballast on the centerline and see how/if that improves the stability with an off center weight. Basically you are performing a modified inclining test on the boat. It should really help you with coming up with the best configuration for gear and passengers. If you want more info on actually running calculations and such I can dust off some of my old textbooks and come up with some basic formulas that should be helpful for you.
Pods like these, fitted using wings like the second pic instead of outrigger types beams. Dennis suggested full length pods which I will look at closely. A converting the boat to a tri like this should let me run around the boat without heeling it much
pwr tri 35 p2 by jonny.toobad, on Flickr
00_FF_Custom_34_AtSpeed by jonny.toobad, on Flickr
I dont know if I actually need to go to the bother. As is the slender hull works well with the small outboard while underway. Once I hook into some decent fishys then will learn of any shortcomings