POPPERS

Discussion in 'Lure Building' started by jonsey850, Apr 20, 2016.

  1. jonsey850

    jonsey850 Active Member

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    Hi Guys

    I thought I would post some photos of some poppers I have been making over the last few months. I received alot of knowledge from this forum so I will return the favor with some things I have learnt that might help some begginers.

    First fish on one of my poppers
    IMG_2979_1.jpg

    The only power tools you really need to make poppers is a lathe and a rotisserie. A drill press and a drop saw are nice but not essential.

    - Lathe, get a decent size lathe, 1m long bed is a good size. The only chisels you really need are a large and small roughing gouge. A box cutter is an excellet parting tool.

    - Creating cup, mark angle of cup and cut with hand saw, use core box rounter bit in lathe to rough out shape, change to round bur to tidy up, use piece of sand paper on a flat bench to sand face of cup perfectly flat, finaly a flappy sanding wheel to finish. Only takes 10-15min per lure to create the cup. All fittings are used in a 16mm drill chuck in the lathe (no drill press required).

    DSC01447.jpg

    - Weights, I use sinkers (for belly/keel) and a piece of 3/8 s/s tube in the rear (casting weight) which can be changed to suit the weather conditions (less tail weight if calm more if rough). Glue belly weights in using epoxy, do not use car bog ect as it is not water proof and will casuse problems. I use Techniglue, water proof, sands nicely. When you work out where to put the belly weights glue them in the blank before turning so no sanding is required.

    - Rotisserie , 4W microwave turntable motors are the go. $3.00 each on ebay. These motors are 240V AC single phase sychronous motors and will randomly start in either cw or ccw (50/50 chance). Excellent as you only need to wire a simple single throw (on/off) switch and the rottisserie will go either way. Couple rods to motors using 3/8" (9.5mm) tube with one end squashed to a semi circle using a hammer/chissel. I have welded 3mm threaded rod to the coupler which rests in a 'V' block on the opposing side. If you only drill a 4mm though hole the lures they will slip onto the rod easily but be firm enough not to slip while rotating.

    Do not coat lures if they flop or slip on the rotisserie! you will get a build up on one side. either tighten coupler or wrap some tape around the rod so the lure fits on tighter.

    Pic_0414_056.jpg

    - Sealing, I have been using a concrete sealer which seems to work fine with a primer adhering well, although I might try usng an acrylic sealer in the future. The ultumate would be to seal using thinned epoxy but it is far to expensive to be dipping 200mm+ lures in it and tossing the excess.

    - Finishing, I have been using Norglass Liquid glass. It works quite well although I found it important to spary a clear coat on first as this gives the lure an even texture and allows the liquid glass to flow better while drying on the rotsserie resulting in a better finish. I have been recoating after 20-24hours, I know it will react if recoated too early and I havnt tried to find the limit yet, maybe someone knows the answer to this??

    Hope this info is usefull to someone.
     
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  2. jonsey850

    jonsey850 Active Member

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    More photos. I know - need to work on my photo skills!
    DSC01530.jpg DSC01531.jpg DSC01448.jpg DSC01527.jpg
     
    Mark Hinson likes this.

  3. kraken33

    kraken33 Senior Member

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    nice work. Curious about the through-wire. Is that a washer welded/braised to the wire instead of a loop bent in the wire itself?
     
  4. jonsey850

    jonsey850 Active Member

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    Hi guys thanks for the compliments.
    The eyes are threaded and are connected via a threaded rod, no welding required. It has taken alot of mucking around to get the right bits and make it work. It is fairly heavy so is only suitable to poppers around 150g and up. I might elaborate more on it in the future, it is quite an expensive system compared to normal through wire though ($7 per lure). The whole terminal system can be undone to either change tail weight/be recovered to use on another lure. Best part is no stretching of through wire/deforming of eyes/twisting of eyes. I still use a normal through wire on smaller lures.

    Cheers
     
  5. kraken33

    kraken33 Senior Member

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    Very cool, thanks for the explanation. I like the idea of the wire being removable.
     
  6. semipro

    semipro Senior Member

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    Looks great,thank you for posting
     
  7. jonsey850

    jonsey850 Active Member

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    Sent one of the lures on a 10 day charter to the Swains Reef (part of the Great Barrier Reef off the Central Queensland coast). Should be interesting, hopefully I will get some photos back of it hanging off a few GT's...
     
    tossser lures likes this.
  8. DenisB

    DenisB Senior Member

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    Nice Work
    Nice tutorial

    think you will find the concrete sealer used is an acrylic compound.
    Norseal wood sealer is an excellent sealer...........probably the best available in Oz.
    pre-thinned 2-pack Epoxy............super thin.........super penetrating.
    just brush it on & let it soak into the wood fibre.
    A couple of quick wet-on-wet coats with a small brush & let it dry overnite.
    brush marks typically don't exist with this material, so dipping unnecessary & small batches are very economical.

    This type of sealer gets into the wood fibre a ways into the surface & bonds the fibres together as well as filling the porous fibres themselves.
    much better than a surface coating sealer/primer.
    very hard/dense woods will not soak up much sealer & just 1-2 coats will fill the surface fibres as good as you will get.

    He He
    I have used about 25 litres of Norglass Norseal in the last 12 months on prepping planking & decking repairs to my 40' Randall
    along with about 30 kilos of Norglass Staybond epoxy in Glue& screw/nail work on the boat.
    Norglass have a range of excellent well priced products that I have been using in various applications for probably 30 yrs or more.

    I should have bought shares in the company.
     
  9. jonsey850

    jonsey850 Active Member

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    Hi Denis

    Yes they certainly do make some good products.

    The problem is I have to get into the through hole/belly terminal hole as it is not sealed when the Liquid Glass goes on, this means I can only dip the lures. Otherwise I would use epoxy as it is probaly a similar price to the concrete sealer.

    I think I will try switching to Etex after I run out of Norglass as it seems a bit cheaper and from what i'm told it goes on the best out of all the 2 packs.

    Another thing I have learnt - Decant 2 pack into smaller jars (I use the medical cups with the yellow lids) and use syringes to mix. Syringes with a rubber seal are fine to use just make sure to wash them before use as they seem to have some kind of lubricant inside. They are fine to reuse, the hardener does not seem to ruin the rubber seal.

    Cheers
     
  10. DenisB

    DenisB Senior Member

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    Re Thru hole
    Bulk syringes with needle 3-5ml are cheap as chips ( lots of medical supply companies deal online)
    inject mixed Norseal into the thruhole & flood it
    ( high solvent level & penetrating absorbtion at low viscosity into the wood mitigates against fisheye syndrome).
    Result..............very low wastage & excellent surface sealing).

    RE epoxy clearcoats & syringes for portioning.
    rubber seal type syringe use dimethlpolysiloxane as lubricant & this causes fisheyes in the finish ( surface tension effect with a high viscosity liquid).
    If you have not had them you are lucky.
    There are no solvents to completely remove this silicone , only to inefficiently dilute it.
    ( note: the anti-silicone anti-fisheye solution used by auto resprayers does not work in clear epoxies ...........it makes them cloudy )
    ( worldwide the rodbuilding community has tried to find a solvent/cleaner solution , but nothing longterm reliable found).
    Strongly suggest purchasing the syringes with plastic plunger seal for portioning your epoxy. Keep endcaps & reseal ( Empty) after use.
    you can reuse for months.( mark hardener syringe with markerpen !!!! )
    Store epoxy components & empty used syringes out of sunlight.
    Flush hardener syringe with acetone if the leftovers in the nozzle darken ( oxidation of the hardener reagent in UV & faster when exposed to air............hence using endcaps )prior to re-use.
    ( This oxidation in UV is why you should keep your epoxy components out of the sunlight )

    I decant my rodbuilding & luremaking clear epoxies into 50ml containers as required & cover them with a small piece of PVC pipe & endcap..............keeping the OEM product containers in cupboard.

    FWIW
     
  11. jonsey850

    jonsey850 Active Member

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    Thanks Denis, I will take all that on board.
    Painting a few more today, will try have them ready early next week. Looks like we are going to have some good weather during the weekend and early next week, so hopefully will spend a few days using the lures not just building them!
     
  12. jonsey850

    jonsey850 Active Member

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    Got this one yesterday. Black lure with a silver sparlke in it. IMG_0278.jpg
     
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  13. GARRIGA

    GARRIGA Senior Member

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    Black makes the most sense for any surface lure. Creates the most contrast against a bright sky. Nice job.
     
  14. Bunny

    Bunny Senior Member

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    I have young kids so have a decent supply of Nurofen and Panadok syringes! No rubber in them.
    I have some ETEX and it works well.
    Nice work, thanks for posting.
     
  15. Icy Joe

    Icy Joe Senior Member

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    Great looking work jonsey.
    Garriga is correct (as he usually is) contrast is the key, especially on bright days. Full moon at night black is also the cats meow.
    Keep us in the loop.......potential customers mate!
     
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  16. T_H

    T_H Active Member

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    Nice job mate. Great looking lures
     
  17. jonsey850

    jonsey850 Active Member

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    Thanks guys.
    Testing has been on going, I have decided to change the wood sealer to a 2 pack as suggested earlier. The paint seems to chip off more between the sealer and primer so im thinking this is a weak point (sealer/primer not adhering well enough). I am also looking a getting a special 12T crimping die made up to make the through wire system alot quicker to make.

    Bunny - Where do you get these Nurofen and Panadok syringes mate?

    Cheers
     
    cavalier likes this.
  18. cavalier

    cavalier Junior member

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    Can you post a pic of your through wire (rod) system.

    Regards
     
  19. jonsey850

    jonsey850 Active Member

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    Well here you go, all my secrets revealed. In my opinion this through wire system is miles ahead of the conventional twisted wire method. It allows the weight in the rear of the lure to be changed to suit different hooks ect. This method is only suitable for around 140g + lures as the through wire is quite heavy. It is expensive too, costing around $5au per lure.

    Also a design for a 150g popper to get you started. The 15mm tube lenght is only a guide, it may require no extra weight if heavy hooks/trebles are used.

    Enjoy Roundy's Lures_200 slim.jpg
     
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