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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
the penn 330 gti is simply the bigger brother of the 320 gti with the same spool as the 3/0 sized penn 112h. it has all the same advantages, and disadvantages, of the penn 320 gti. the only real difference is the larger frame and spool.



to remove the right side plate assembly (key #1), remove the right side plate screws (key #32).



the reel breaks down into three pieces, the frame assembly (key #183), the spool (key #29L) and the right side plate assembly (key #1).



lube the left side plate bearing (key #40).



lube the worm (key #42) in the levelwind assembly.



here's a look at the spool (key #29L). it is a 112h spool on a different spool shaft.



put the spool (key #29L) back in the frame assembly (key #183) and set it aside.



now for the right side plate assembly (key #1). remove the handle lock screw (key #23A).



remove the handle assembly screw (key #23).



remove the handle assembly (key #24).



remove the star drag (key #10) and tension spring (key #8). i typically discard the tension spring at this point.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4148.JPG

push the eccentric lever assembly (key #21) forward and into gear, then back out all four bridge screws (key #'s 16 and 17) and leave them all in place.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4149.JPG

the bridge assembly (key #3) will fall out easily, so catch it without turning the right side plate (key #1) upside down.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4150.JPG

here is an exploded view of the bridge assembly (key #3) and main gear clustger (key #5).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4151.JPG

we're going to switch out the fiber washer (key #4) for a drag washer (penn part #6-875).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4152.JPG

grease the drag washer (part #6-875).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4153.JPG

rebuild the drag stack, starting with the #6-875 washer underneath the main gear.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4154.JPG

slap a thick coat of drag grease on all the other carbon fiber drag washers and rebuild the drag stack.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4155.JPG

place your left and middle fingers over the bridge screws and lift up the right side plate.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4156.JPG

now flip it over and everything should stay in place.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4157.JPG

install the bridge assembly (key #3) and rotate the bridge plate 90 degrees counterclockwise from it's final position.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4158.JPG

install the dog spring (key #14) and dog (key #15).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4159.JPG

rotate the bridge (key #3) 90 degrees clockwise until the bridge plate seats properly.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4160.JPG

with a right hand assist, flip the right side plate (key #1) over.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN41611.JPG

set each bridge screw (key #'s 16 and 17) halfway, then snug them down until they seat properly.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4162.JPG

check the function of the anti-reverse mechanism.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4163.JPG

check the function of the eccentric lever assembly (key #21).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4164.JPG

lube the spool shaft (key #29L).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4165.JPG

lube the bearing (no key #) in the bridge (key #3).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4166.JPG

install the right side plate assembly (key #1) and right side plate screws (key #32).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4167.JPG

install the star drag (key #10) and turn it down until it clears the shoulders of the gear sleeve (key #98).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4168.JPG

install the handle (key #24). note that a penn senator power handle (part #24-349H) may be substituted here as well.

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4169.JPG

install the handle assembly screw (key #23).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4170.JPG

install the handle lock screw (key #23A).

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4171.JPG

done!

http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4172.JPG

written 5/5/08 at
 

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1,321 Posts
Man that's an easy reel!. Why do you replace the fiber with a drag washer under the gear? Do these gear have the similar limitation you mentioned on the 320 rebuild (compared to the 113)? Or can this reel be fished with higher the 20# drag?

Thanks again for all these tutorials! I would not have opened a reel if not for your help over the years!
 

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Senior Member
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
remember from the 320 gti post that there are two types of penn drag washers. the thin ones, like the 320 gti and jigmaster washers, are made up of a single layer of carbon fiber. this single layer washers will not hold up underneath the main gear. the thick ones. like the 113h and 114 drag washers, have a fiberglass core with a layer of carbon fiber on either side and they will hold up! the #6-875 drag washer has the same inside diameter as the thin 320 drag and the thick 113h drag. it just has a smaller outer diameter. you could use a #6-113h drag washer underneath, or just stay with the stock fiber washer. i don't care for the fiber washers because they tend to stick a little under a heavy load.
 
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