New Guy

Discussion in 'Rod Building' started by BC4Lyphe, Sep 21, 2009.

  1. BC4Lyphe

    BC4Lyphe Junior member

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    Hey guys I've been fishing for quite some time now and I want to get into rod building. I was planning on getting into it little by little because I have little money. I wanted to make 2 rods by hand, no lathe or anything, and was looking at some blanks. Just a few questions. I plan on putting a TLD25s and 50s on these rods, built for stand up on tuna and sharks off the Maine coast.

    What exactly are "fast tapor" rods? Is a tuna "short" blank made to have an aluminum butt stuck on the end? If I get a 6' rod, I slide the grips and reel seat over the blank correct? How come some rods like the Pacific Bay PBX XST60XHB 6' is $26 and some Seeker and other brand 6' rods are $126? Any info, knowledge or experience is greatly appreciated.
     
  2. flatliner

    flatliner Senior Member

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    Hey guys I've been fishing for quite some time now and I want to get into rod building. I was planning on getting into it little by little because I have little money. I wanted to make 2 rods by hand, no lathe or anything, and was looking at some blanks. Just a few questions. I plan on putting a TLD25s and 50s on these rods, built for stand up on tuna and sharks off the Maine coast.

    What exactly are "fast tapor" rods? Is a tuna "short" blank made to have an aluminum butt stuck on the end? If I get a 6' rod, I slide the grips and reel seat over the blank correct? How come some rods like the Pacific Bay PBX XST60XHB 6' is $26 and some Seeker and other brand 6' rods are $126? Any info, knowledge or experience is greatly appreciated.

    First off, welcome to the addiction!

    If you are going to be fishing these standup, Batson or American Tackle blanks will be fine for you.

    A fast tapor blank means that the blank is very flexible at the tip portion of the rod and has a mid to high backbone in the rod.

    Yes, you will slip the forgrip down the blank. If you put a unibutt on the rod, that will come up from the bottom, reelseat will come down from the top.

    PacBay rods are much cheaper because they are not made in the US and Seeker is 100% made in California and there is much different technology in the Seeker blanks. So, in this business, its safe to say, you get what you pay for.
    If you have any other questions, feel free to email me at [email protected]

    Kevin
    Custom Fishing Rods | Angler's Envy.
     

  3. Iman

    Iman Senior Member

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    Hi Im new too to this addiction. is there a thread where I can reead about blanks to know more and which equipment should I buy to start rod building.
     
  4. flatliner

    flatliner Senior Member

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    Hi Im new too to this addiction. is there a thread where I can reead about blanks to know more and which equipment should I buy to start rod building.
    Try rodbuilding.org.

    That is the foremost resource for rodbuilders. Its a no BS site (no mucking it up, just professional rodbuilders that have discussions about rodbuilding, not football or politics).

    Kevin
     
  5. Iman

    Iman Senior Member

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    thank you mad marlin I see your an experienced rod builder . hope to see some pics of your work,
     
  6. Armbreaker Custom Rods

    Armbreaker Custom Rods Site Sponsor

    1,250
    1
    yes sir you get what you pay for exactly.Pacbay blanks are from China..what else can ya say.
    I was just the opposite when I first started,,I went right for the best of everything so as I would try my upmost best and it worked out well.If you work with garbage you might not give it your best shot.
    Best of luck and enjoy the ride!
     
  7. d-a

    d-a Senior Member

    5,475
    206
    yes sir you get what you pay for exactly.Pacbay blanks are from China..what else can ya say.
    I was just the opposite when I first started,,I went right for the best of everything so as I would try my upmost best and it worked out well.If you work with garbage you might not give it your best shot.
    Best of luck and enjoy the ride!

    There are some good blanks being made in china. It's all about quality control not where there made.

    d-a
     
  8. greenguy

    greenguy Member

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    get what u pay for
    period
    and im the same arm breaker started with the best parts to make sure i dont @#$ up p.s a tooth brush goes a long way to cleaning up u40 rod bond
    lol
     
  9. flatliner

    flatliner Senior Member

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    Being tough econimic times, I have had to use this quote a lot this year. Here it is:
    You Get What You Pay For........................


    "It's unwise to pay too much ... but it's worse to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money . . . that is all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot—it can't be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for the risk you run. And if you do that, you will have enough to pay for something better."
    John Ruskin
    1819-1900
     
  10. Iman

    Iman Senior Member

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    Can some one explain me this. today I applied the epoxy on the thread but it came with white spots. can any one explain me why and how to remove them.

    Thank you
     
  11. BC4Lyphe

    BC4Lyphe Junior member

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    d-a- What are some brands to look for with good QC?

    I totally agree with not getting the cheapest gear. I always do my research and find the best gear I can. I would always rather spend more, get quality stuff, and not have to worry about it breaking and having to go back out and buy more stuff after it breaks.Take care of your (quality) gear and it'll take care of you!

    That being said,I still think I'm going to stick with the cheapest stuff for my first rod or two and do real good prep work and assembly. I have a lot more questions now that I'm planning everything out. I have a TLD25 and a TLD50. Should I put 50 or 60lb braid on it? With a 100 or 150ft top shot of 80 or 100lb mono? What are your suggestions for a shark/tuna stick?
    I was thinking about getting 6' or 6'6" blanks. Maybe a 6' for the 25 and a 6'6" for the 50? I don't think I'd want a shorter (5') rod because the 6'+ rods are easier to clear the lines around the props, keeping the line off the chines when the fish is on the other side of the boat, around the bow, etc. Good reasoning?

    These are the items I was looking at:

    Blank- $26 Pacific Bay PBX XST60XHB. 6', 50-80lb, #14 tip, .937" butt.
    Reel Seat- $14 PacBay CL22MB. #22.
    Guides- $2.89-$8.29 PacBay Lite Frame Deep Pressed Rings "DPL" #6-#30.
    Tip- $2.86 PacBay Blue Zirconia Ring Tops with TiCH Frame “LCPBT” #6-5.5
    Grips- PacBay Model F12 + R11
    Thread- $5.95 Gudebrod Regular Nylon Thread 1Oz. Size A under, E over.
    Grips- $8.25, $5.10 PacBay Model F12 + R11. 12"x.623x1.4" + 10.5"x.750"x1.4"
    Gimble- $7.76 PacBay Aluminum Gimbal. 2.25"Lx.94"IDx1.06"Lx1.38"D
    Epoxy- $11.45 Flex Coat Rodbuilders Epoxy Glue. G4 4 Oz.
    Finish- $10.95 Flex Coat High-Build Finish. F2K 2 Oz. Super Kit

    The butt diameter on the blank is .937" so do I go down one size for the reel seat? Size #22? Or should I go up a few sizes (#24 or #26) and make an arbor out of masking tape or something? How many guides? 6-10? For sizing should I just go up one size each ring? I chose not use use rollers. Will the braid cut through these normal guides? I figured since the tip had a lot of pressure I’d get zirconium because I heard it holds up to braid real good. The ring size on this tip allows for wind on leaders correct? For the thread I need to have an underwrap layer correct? Should I use size A or can I use D for that? How many overwraps? 2? Size E? I have no idea about epoxies. I saw Flex Coat Rodbuilders Epoxy Glue and Flex Coat High-Build Finish. I’m guessing the Epoxy is for the reel seat and grips while the finish is for putting over the wraping? For the finish should I use the “high build” or the “lite” forumula? I want the rod to be all black, minus the guides and tips. If I’m using black underwrap and black overwrap I don’t need to use color preserver right? What exactly does a wrap without color preserver applied look like? Does it make it a little darker? Thoughts on the NCP thread? For metalics it’s probably recommended right?

    Wow lots of writing, if I forgot anything please tell me. Also if I chose the wrong size for something could you guys point it out? Thanks a lot