1. Well, there are a few potential flaws here. A true unlimited (or 130) blank is absurdly stiff. If you want to use it both in and out of the rod holder, as you suggest, it will be tough to properly load the rod with drag you can handle (when out of the holder). Now, that said, fighting fish from the rod holder can work great. Swordfishermen and rod/reel commercial Bluefin fishermen both use the technique to great effect. A couple of years ago, there was an article in Big Game Fishing Journal describing the BFT guys' technique (I'll look it up for you when I get home). The downside is that you will need a shallow 90deg swivel pin rod holder for this to work, and frankly, not many rec boats around here set their holders up this way. When you say deep dropping, do you mean regular bottom fishing, or 400ft + deep drops? If you intend to do the latter, an electric reel is a much better tool than a conventional reel.
2. Technically, the shorter the rod and the MORE it bends, the easier it is on you. Basically, if it bends like a trevala and is all of 4.5ft long, the fulcrum point will be damn near at the foregrip, which minimizes the leverage the fish has. This does not come cost free of course. You now have a rod w/ no recovery and very little lifting power. If you want to get the appropriate trade off between the two, you'll need a custom rod builder to show you several blanks and configurations (along with your harness).
3. For fishing purely from a rod holder, any custom rod builder can cut down an xxxh tree stump blank and pop it in a UBSC2 for a reasonable price. However, if you plan to fish very heavy drags (30lbs+) while standing up, it pays to try as many rods as possible.
Cliff Notes Version: You're asking for a rod to do several wildly different things (how many times to you chunk for tuna w/ a leader that can handle 50lbs of drag?). If you succeed in getting something that can do all these things, you may find it does none of them well. The rod holder technique will also be limited by each boat's rodholder configuration.
2. Technically, the shorter the rod and the MORE it bends, the easier it is on you. Basically, if it bends like a trevala and is all of 4.5ft long, the fulcrum point will be damn near at the foregrip, which minimizes the leverage the fish has. This does not come cost free of course. You now have a rod w/ no recovery and very little lifting power. If you want to get the appropriate trade off between the two, you'll need a custom rod builder to show you several blanks and configurations (along with your harness).
3. For fishing purely from a rod holder, any custom rod builder can cut down an xxxh tree stump blank and pop it in a UBSC2 for a reasonable price. However, if you plan to fish very heavy drags (30lbs+) while standing up, it pays to try as many rods as possible.
Cliff Notes Version: You're asking for a rod to do several wildly different things (how many times to you chunk for tuna w/ a leader that can handle 50lbs of drag?). If you succeed in getting something that can do all these things, you may find it does none of them well. The rod holder technique will also be limited by each boat's rodholder configuration.
