360 Tuna Fishers Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Site Sponsor
Joined
·
751 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Being inspired by DennisB's photos of his testing frame I went to my shop to see what I could do. Took 6'' piece of 1'' square tubing drilled hole in side large enough to accept 3/4" shoulder bolt. Tack welded washers to each side of "shoulder" and then to tubing. Next drilled hole for 3/8'' threaded bolt and tacked head of bolt to tubing. Heated and bent some small square stock for end loop attachment, and tacked to end opposite the shoulder bolt. Epoxied some gasket material to two 3/8'' fender washers for line clamping surface. Used a wing nut to make changing line quicker and with out tools. Works great.

While in shop also built a serving/knot tying vise. Took 28'' piece of 2x4, drilled 1'' hole 2'' in from each end. Routed 1/4'' dado lenght-wise in 1'' hard wood dowel, bedded with marine silicone caulking and pressed in the padded jaw clamps I bought from Lowes. Inserted dowel/clamps after adding wood glue. Let dry over night Better than having two extra hands!!
 

Attachments

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
5,700 Posts
Jim
I humbly suggest it would be better if the bobbins were larger diameter.
Increased friction in the turns on the bobbin is the key to success.
Your test rig would work with high clamping pressure on the tags for ABS destructive tests, however, the clamping pressure is highly likely to damage the line if you use the rigs to proof test your gear on the reel .

FWIW the bobbin I use is 1.25" dia for spectra and 2.25" dia for the mono leaders when pre tensioning leaders for a nub and proof testing rigs to be used.

I will add some images of my serving & pre-tensioning jig to this thread to give further ideas.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
1,386 Posts
Jim
I humbly suggest it would be better if the bobbins were larger diameter.
Increased friction in the turns on the bobbin is the key to success.
Your test rig would work with high clamping pressure on the tags for ABS destructive tests, however, the clamping pressure is highly likely to damage the line if you use the rigs to proof test your gear on the reel .

FWIW the bobbin I use is 1.25" dia for spectra and 2.25" dia for the mono leaders when pre tensioning leaders for a nub and proof testing rigs to be used.

I will add some images of my serving & pre-tensioning jig to this thread to give further ideas.

Your craftsmanship on the pullers looks good but I agree with DenisB about the diameter. Mine are 1 1/4" and up. For pulling on Spectra I sometimes use a 2" diameter puller.
 

·
Site Sponsor
Joined
·
751 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the comments. I'm learning as I go. Both of your posts have really shortened the learning curve, and made me give much more thought to the line/knots/connections I use.
We spend a lot of time hashing out reel specs/rod ratings/lure action but too little in the most important element line/connection performance
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
5,700 Posts
Absolutely Jim, sharing on sites like this is what its all about. I lurked for a long time before deciding to start to share what I have learnt & see others contribute to further improvements , or adapt ideas they like to their own activities.

DenisB's line tensioning & serving Jig images.



note the two clamps at the top of each arm and the pulley on the LHS arm.
The clamps are used for serving etc & the pulley on the LHS is used for pre-tensioning mono/fluoro.
( the pulley is a roller door wheel )

another image from above.



note the holes in the top of the frame at 1" intervals.

A shot of the line tensioner setup ( just dummied up for the image )



Note the large diameter bobbin to avoid leader damage ( the larger diameter & number of turns reduces the clamping pressure required & also limits any pigtailing from the use of a smaller dia bobbin at high pre-tension loads. )

A shot of the nail knot tensioning equipment in use ( dummied up with some heavy twine , so it shows better than 30# spectra in the image )



The reason for the series of holes in the top of the jig frame becomes apparent, as they locate the knot tensioning sticks.
I find tensioning sticks like this much more controllable than just hand pullers.
- note the pair of aluminium handpullers in the image infront of the jig.
- note that the C/F sticks have a stepped end to locate in the holes in the jig frame & are stepped to locate the loops in the nail knot tags positively ( so they dont slip down on the tensioning sticks) . The configuration of the tensioning sticks is best seen back in image #2.

This might give others further ideas.

I also made a line tensioning rig for spool filling a while back I will post in another thread.
( very handy for single man operation & works like a charm for both spinners & conventionals ) ..........hand operated.
 

·
Site Sponsor
Joined
·
751 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
DennisB
What material do you use on the washers used for the line clamps? I used a rubberfiber gasket material that seems soft enough not to damage line but has a high friction co-effecient.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
5,700 Posts
DennisB
What material do you use on the washers used for the line clamps? I used a rubberfiber gasket material that seems soft enough not to damage line but has a high friction co-effecient.

I punch the washers out of 2.5mm thick solid neoprene rubber sheet.
flat washers are more suited to the application than textured washers.

when pre-tensioning leaders I tie a 2-turn uni on the end of the leader & snug it up against the edge of the clamp & trim the knot off after completing the nub.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top