360 Tuna Fishers Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
5,700 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's some images of my homemade line tensioning jig for spool filling with spectra.



The C/F shaft with the reelseat is removeable for storage.



broken down for storage the shaft is held by a piece of onewrap velcro to the frame. The rig is stored hanging from a nail in the rafters under the house.

A closeup of the drag plate assy:-



Note that a sheet of S/steel is attached to the wooden bracket to make a smooth face for the drag.

A closeup of the attachment of the dragplate to the shaft:-



The shaft is 3/8" s/steel threaded rod.
nut welded to the rod.
a piece of 6mm aluminimum plate with a hex hole for positive drive for the dragplate to the shaft . Care needed to ensure this hex hole is central & just loose enough to make the dragplate free floating so it stays flat to the frame as it rotates.
The 6mm drive plate is attached to the dragplate with countersunk & tapped holes for the thru bots & lock nutted for security.

a shot of the drag pressure washers:-



10 spring steel cupped washers for plenty of adjustment ( light to heavy tension depending on the BS of the line being loaded.)
a flat washer & double nuts to lock the tension setting.

a shot of the line spool drive:-



Note the triple nuts locked together on the shaft for a secure drive
Rubber washer glued to the line spool drive plate
2-piece hex drive similar to the drag drive.
( its not critical for alignment of this drive & easier to make in 2 pieces.)
The endplate for the line spool is free floating & locates under pressure from another plate on the other side of the line spool.
Note the 2 bushes on the shaft to locate the line spool centrally.
Different brands of line require different sized bushes.

A shot of the idle end of the shaft assy:-



The large washer here is free floating & is backed by a S/Steel washer and double nuts to lock the line spool under tension & adequate friction against the rubber washer on the drive end plate.
Note the end bracket is removeable and is located in its square position by some aluminium strips screwed into the base, after squaring the bracket & shaft for position. This ensures the shaft & end plate are always square when assembled.
Note the two slots in the angle bracket & the wing nuts to secure the idle endplate for the shaft .
The thread has been removed from the shaft for smooth running & so it doesnt chew the endframe out.
BTW the drag end of the threaded shaft has had the threads filled with Devcon 5T aluminium filled epoxy & machined back for smooth running in the drive end bracket.
The middle bracket is drilled oversize & it there merely to keep the shaft & drag reasonably square when the idle end bracket is removed ( not good for the drag smoothness to let the shaft hang down when loading/unloading line spools etc ).

A shot with a conventional reel :-



You stand facing the line spool & wind on.

A shot with a spinner:-



In this situation you have the handle on the RHS of the reel, mount upside down & stand next to the shaft with your back to the line spool & wind on .
( gets reel & handle rotation normal ............. Left handed reel users can leave the handle on the LHS side & stand on the opposite side with your back to the line spool & wind to load ). So the rig is completely ambidextrous.

The Drag material ??????...........
A top quality cork floor tile , rough shaped & epoxied to the drag plate then machined in a lathe as an annular ring with the ID to suit clearance for the mounting bolts for the drag plate hex drive plate.

Periodically the drag plate might have to be removed & refaced by touching up the cork face with a sheet of 400Grit wet & dry paper on a piece of glass or mirror ( for flatness ) ........only a quick touch up is required & I have not had to do this yet ( but I have had to reface cork drags on reels in the early days after heavy use ............so I expect to have to do it eventually ).
TIP: don't use any grit finer than 800 as it will promote a jerky drag from dynamic skidding .........a super smooth drag washer does not provide what you intuitively think it might, in smoothness in practice.........reels or line winders )

Total construction time appox 8 Hrs total ( from memory ) spread over several days allowing for glueing of several components o'night etc.
everything except the drag material machining can be done with handyman tools.

More ideas to work with ........... to load your own line properly under tension.

Works like a charm.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
5,700 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ohh
forgot to mention

The line guide is adjustable height ( only needed for spinners)
You can see this in the last 2 images.

The line guide needs to be central to the spool axis on spinners to mitigate differential cranking resistance with bail up/bail down as it rotates.
I have been meaning to reduce the height of the line guide base to suit some of my smaller spinners ( keep forgetting to do it ). It works OK on the bigger spinners & down to the 4500 I grabbed for the photo shoot, but its not optimal for smaller spinners & needs to be lowered a bit more.
 

·
Wannabe Tuna Fisherman
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
My set up isn't nearly as complex, but it works. The vice holds the steel bolt. The steel washers are sandwiched with leather cutouts on either side of the spool of line. A nut turns on the bolt to apply the pressure on the spool. It works smoothly and I use 8-10 pounds of drag.
 

Attachments

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
3,165 Posts
WOW...very nice..It definitely is more cool looking than my 40lbs of weight in a cooler with tywraps around the spool rig...lol..Good job Denis..and thanks for sharing.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
1,386 Posts
DenisB, Really nice work! There is no doubt in my mind that I lack the craftsmanship needed to build something as elegant as that. PF
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
5,700 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The best part of the integral shaft on the rig is that you dont have to resist the spool tension, just clamp the rig to a bench or table & crank.

Elegant, Roger, nah........just functional.

He He ............it might have been elegant if I motorised the reel cranking, but why bother.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
306 Posts
Hell, I put a long plastic spoon through the spool, and push the spool into thick carpet by putting a foot on each end of the spoon. Very ghetto but it works great and I can watch TV while doing it. You do need to have the reel on the rod though and string the line through some or all of the guides. Try not to burn your carpet!
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
223 Posts
this spoolers work pretty well , they also have the spool attachment for spinning reels to use on you drill. Easy to fill up your spools with good tension, I can recommend it as i do have them

Good to know, I was skeptical for $65, hard to believe it could work well.

Do you have the regular or large spindle version?
 

·
Wannabe Tuna Fisherman
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
DenisB

Something I thought of last night that would be perfect for your set up, a line counter. Since yours is all stationary putting a line counter device in line between the spool of line and reel would be real easy. Doesn't work quite as well for me having to clamp it onto the rod.

Just thinking out loud for your version 2.0. :)
 

·
Junior member
Joined
·
12 Posts
I found this thing on Ebay, was thinking of picking one up
Line Winders - Line Spoolers

View attachment 10314

I got this and am happy with it. Easy to adjust the tension on the line and easily adjusts to both big&small spools. Doesn't have a line counter but I've been playing with the Rapala counter ($12) shown in other posts. Also works great as a de-spooler using a hand-held drill.

Capt Bob also offers a nice combo harpoon/flying gaff, too.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
649 Posts
Jeees Denis,

You are either single or have a very understanding wife to have all that fishing gadgetry in the house; nice one!

Wish i had a Shimano service agent near me so that i could get an old main shaft for respooling my Stellas; recon it would be simple to just put the spool on the main shaft with the drag knob and put the shaft in a drill chuck.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
5,700 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Mark
she's quite understanding, but mostly resigned to fate.
The yard is full of bits from the big boats, half a dozen little boats and the commercial nets & gear that goes with all that.............basically its a mess.

Cheapo Stella shaft
A high tensile bolt the right diameter:-
cut the head off & weld a nut ( after drilling the thread out ) up the shaft leaving enough room for the drill chuck on the outside.
hit the threaded end with a grinder to create the flats for the drag washers.
appropriate OD washers either end & a nut on the end & go for it.
I've a couple made for different reels, but can only find the one for my saltiga 4500 in the place its supposed to be............He He.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top