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Ok so this maybe a dumb question but its worth asking. I was reading up on some older threads the other day, and I notice that the same thing pops up time and time again. What knots are the best for popping? We all want a knot that will pass thru the guides smooth yet retain as much strength as possible. Well I don't know much about hollow spectra but is it possible to eliminate knots all together? If done right, could you take small pieces of hollow braid and use them to connect your main line to backing or main line to leader etc... eliminating all knots. Is this possible or am I retarted for asking
 

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You can definitely do that. Go to Jerry Brown braid website and if the info isn't online yet contact him and have him send you the packet and it will show you exactly how to do it without any not whatsoever.
 

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Ok so this maybe a dumb question but its worth asking. I was reading up on some older threads the other day, and I notice that the same thing pops up time and time again. What knots are the best for popping? We all want a knot that will pass thru the guides smooth yet retain as much strength as possible. Well I don't know much about hollow spectra but is it possible to eliminate knots all together? If done right, could you take small pieces of hollow braid and use them to connect your main line to backing or main line to leader etc... eliminating all knots. Is this possible or am I retarted for asking


I will be deploying a knotless system for the reasons you mention and some others. I still haven't decided what to do about the connection to the lure. It will be a swivel/split ring for sure but I have to tie a knot there. I'm thinking that will be my "fuse" and I will select leader material and test it ahead of time so that it has a way to break just before the main line does.

It is also why I posted the Glueless Splice Thread the other day.

Further, it is my goal to prepare everything ahead of time with replaceable parts (read loop-to-loop) so that I don't have to MANUFACTURE fishing equipment (knots) under adverse conditions (boats, beach, etc.)

I must sound crazy!
 

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Sure, hollow braid as main line to flouro/mono leader that will pass through, but hollow braid doesn't cast as well, and every time you bust up your leader or it gets short, you'll have to do the splice on the boat while fishing. It's tough when the seas aren't good. A wind-on leader would be better because you can exchange wind-ons when it gets short or when you need to size down.
 

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Have you had any issues with line twist using hollow braid on your spinners?

Basil,

I used hollow 60 and 80 for a whole season on a couple of Stellas. I noticed a significant increase in wind knots and line wrapping around guides during the cast. I also think casting distance is reduced when using hollow on spinners.
 

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I think hollow braid is an excellent backing material to add yardage to smaller reels like the SW8000 but casting-wise, I prefer solid braid with a rounder shape like Daiwa Samurai braid. Samurai casts like a rocket for me, better than any braid I've used so far. I've not used the super high end PE lines yet though (Varivas, etc), but Samurai fits my bill for now.
 

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I cast tuffline XP and it casts great with Page Ranking knot.
Never had bird nest or tangles. Once you do Page Ranking knot and practice it's not as hard as you think. Even in 5-6 foot seas.
txcards watched me tie PR knot in few seconds leaning on fish hold on Pelican trip.
 

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The original question was about implementing a Knot-less System.

Since there are still many who prefer a specific brand of braid, some that aren't easily spliceable, I would say, if you prefer solid, splice a piece of JB on with the method I described Solid to Hollow Splice and then add your leaders or other elements by Loop-to-Loop.

I would go further and say that I plan to pre-attach my swivels and split-rings before fishing and have enough leaders to get through the day. That way I can make them under ideal conditions and pre-test the strength of each knot.

As I said above, I would also like, by design to have the terminal tackle knot just a little weaker than the L2L connections so that if something has to break (at 65-70 lbs.), I won't leave a fish dragging 50-100 yards of line.

A knot-less system, plug and play is a worthy goal.
 

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Pamet,
Nice thread on the solid to hollow
Are you considering trying solid braid splice to hollow and splice to leader?

Basil, Did you get my PM?
 

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Pamet,
Nice thread on the solid to hollow
Are you considering trying solid braid splice to hollow and splice to leader?

Basil, Did you get my PM?

On the reels where I use solid, I plan to add the hollow core with an end-loop. Then I will add the leader by Loop-to-Loop. I will make all my leaders ahead of time. (And will add the solid-to-hollow splice ahead of time too.)

For reels where I set up short leaders, I'm going to do the following:

--Attach a solid - hollow splice with end-loop.

--L2L connect a 6' piece of 200# hollow spectra that has an end-loop at each end.

--L2L the leader to the 200# line.

That way I won't have to cast with 50-80# spectra on my "trigger" finger. My finger will rest against the 200#.

In some other applications, jigging with a short rod, I will make the 200# piece longer so that I have abrasion resistance (boat contact) when using a short rod.

With L2L I can change out the 200# piece also. I really line the flexibility of end-loop splices.
 

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The original question was about implementing a Knot-less System.

Since there are still many who prefer a specific brand of braid, some that aren't easily spliceable, I would say, if you prefer solid, splice a piece of JB on with the method I described Solid to Hollow Splice and then add your leaders or other elements by Loop-to-Loop.

I would go further and say that I plan to pre-attach my swivels and split-rings before fishing and have enough leaders to get through the day. That way I can make them under ideal conditions and pre-test the strength of each knot.

As I said above, I would also like, by design to have the terminal tackle knot just a little weaker than the L2L connections so that if something has to break (at 65-70 lbs.), I won't leave a fish dragging 50-100 yards of line.

A knot-less system, plug and play is a worthy goal.

He did ask what is the best knot for popping. I recommend PR knot.
 
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