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Currently getting set to build a few rods for jigging SoCal BFT.
I went on a 2.75 day trip in November and I’m hooked. Landed two 100+ lb BFT and a YFT about 50-60 lb on iron using an OTI fathom blade 200g 6’ rod. I was fishing #65 braid to #40 FC leader of about 25’.
The BFT worked me hard with that setup and I need to have a few more appropriately sized options.

I am prepping to build three new jigging rods using United composites blanks:
CXJ6003 (300-500g)
US60XOS (150-350g)
Zeus-3 (200-300g)

I will likely be maxing my drag settings on these rods, so I’ll need strong components, but also want to keep them as light as possible.

I’m looking for specific recommendations for a light and strong reel seat that will also flex a little with the blanks. Reels will likely be avet raptors MXJ - JX.

also: I’m decided on titanium frame guides. Advice on specific models? Are there any single foot guides for the top 1/2-1/3 of the blank strong enough to handle 25-30 lbs of drag? I’ll go with all double foot if need be.

Thanks in advance fellas!
 

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Fuji graphite seats in 20 or 22 for those reels. I'd even go with the HD model. Fuji MN framed guides are plenty strong for jigging/popping. That is a big fis on the OTI 200g. I always liked that blank, and wish I would have kept it with the new handles. They're accurately rated based on the jig size they're made to work as opposed to a line rating.

One word of advice on building your first jigging rod, the rear handle is long. I'd use your OTI as a length reference. And a Fuji rubber gimbal is your friend.

**corrected reel seat sizes.
 

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I like those blank choices. I was wondering what kind of epoxy do you guys like on those reel seats? Those blanks are parabolic so they tend to flex down to the gimbal. The stuff I use by smooth on for offshore rods does not flex
 

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I like those blank choices. I was wondering what kind of epoxy do you guys like on those reel seats? Those blanks are parabolic so they tend to flex down to the gimbal. The stuff I use by smooth on for offshore rods does not flex
Flex coat " rod builders epoxy"is bulletproof.
I wouldn't use anything else. Especially on reel seats.

I'd stay away from the 5 minute stuff.
Longer curing epoxies are stronger than the stuff that cures in a few minutes. Not that there aren't applications for quick drying but when I put a rod together I try to do everything I can to be sure it stays together.
 

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Stress concentration in parabolic rods caused by stiffness in the reelseat attachment is a real problem when rods are used near the max blank load ( drag) rating .
rod blanks are load rated without guides & reelseats...............just tip loaded.
Topline companies give max loads at 90 Deg ( horizontal ) & 45 deg ( elevated 45 Deg).
the lower 45 Deg rating is the one to focus on.
A stiff reelseat & glue reduced blank strength by 25% ( read & weep the posts Nev put up about Synit tests proving my assessments). The failures occur around 25-30mm infront of the reelseat from the stress concentration the reelseat causes.
So............
IF you are using your favoured rod near 75% of the max 45 Deg load rating of the blank you are in dangerous territory, not only from the tested bare blank tip load tests but the line thru the guides increases the blank deflection more than any given load test on a bare rod.
Aluminium reelseats are a no-no for parabolic jig rods used near max rated loads as their rigidity compromises max rod strength.
HD Fuji seats have no reinforcement in the hoods & have a history of cracking at the corners of the cavity for the reelfoot ,over time.
The proven best option for parabolic jig blanks is DPSD Fuji seats with metal hood covers & work either uplocking or downlocking.
Palming reelseats work OK with the reinforced front hood, but you need to watch the rear hood for cracking over time. ( no failures reported , & the cavity is a little different shape to the HD seats, but the hood material is the same......... also recognising that the front hood is most at risk from line drag pulling the reelfoot harder into the hood cavity increasing shear forces on the corners of the hood cavity)
As reported in my previous posts on the subject Devcon make a specialist softer epoxy glue that is recommended ( this is not the std 20T product ).
Some have used 5 min epoxy as it is softer, I have not conducted tests on longevity of the 5 min product, so you will have to rely on the manufacturers information.
We have 2 needs in attaching a reelseat on parabolic rods , adhesion security & minimising stress concentration from the stiffening of the blank by the attachment. That is ADEQUATE adhesion & longevity..........using the best stiffest, strongest adhesive comes with compromising blank strength for parabolic jig type blanks.

we don't have the same risk factors with fast taper rods where the action has'locked up' well above the rod grips & reelseat.........in that situation the forces at play in the reelseat area are different as they don't include deflection curvature of the blank & not a threat to the blank matrix as it has a much larger crosssection & matrix volume. That however comes with a significant loss of leverage to the angler & increased effort requirements...............which is where the advantage is in HD parabolic rods which deflect into a shorter effective lever for the angler.

FWIW
 

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DenisB. Thank you for often taking the time to provide such detailed information. You were very helpful with a popping rod I built a few years ago. Much appreciated.

Here's one of the previous posts for reference to save searching. Discusses flexible arbors and epoxy, reel seats...
https://www.360tuna.com/threads/custom-black-hole.43859/#post-476126

I like the suggestion of a couple of short arbors.

I'll start a new thread for my build.

Thanks
 

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look at some pictures of higher end rods, plenty of them use the DPSD as Denis suggested, and they often use the "LD" option, that is long nut. I have had the standard nut strip so I never use them. only thing is you will need a spacer placed at the end of the threads so the longer nut can go past the end of the seat. Without the spacer, if you use a bigish spinning reel, you may not be able install the reel. I guess that the Avet conventional reel may not need the spacer. For reasons I don't understand, the LD option is not available from the the usual rod building component sources. You can order a metal spacer from from Matagi, or as i have done lately, order a piece of carbon fiber tube of the appropriate diameter on ebay and cut to lenght desired, usually about 3/4".
 

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The Polyurethane arbors & graphite foam arbors are very stiff to transmit vibration between rod blank & hand on the reelseat ( usually exposed type seat). they are not very flexible. That said anything cut into 3-4mm wide strips will deform with a flexible glue. 3-4mm masking tape will do the same job. Glue bands no wider than 10mm will give adequate adhesion to the reelseat between arbours down the length of the seat. The arbors only need to be a snug fit at the ends & the middle to keep the reelseat concentric to the rod blank............the rest of the arbor segments can be 50thou shorter in Dia.
Nothing wrong with using EVA foam for arbor segments either..............thin strips of masking tape are very adaptable & don't require machining ID or OD.
FWIW
 
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