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My recomendation is to just latch the handle on the rod and turn the reel. That's how the real Shrek would do it. :)
 

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I think I saw the handle on the lower reel posted by the maker on bloodydecks. I think it was on a thread about upgrading TLDs during the day. It may be the same guy Alantini is talking about. He would likely be a perfect person to contact and I will try to find that thread if you would like.

Scott

 

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Also, in the past I have talked to the owner of Avet reels and he was always interested in input and ideas. You may want to shoot Avet an e-mail and see what they say. They may see this as an opportunity to provide more attentive customer care and develop several size handles for their equipment, but you may have to buy an Avet.
 

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dont get them started on avets.

LOL. I was afraid of that. But they "may" be willing to sell him an Avet with a huge handle if he contacted them
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
What's up with this Shrek stuff?

I don't own an Avet. Never will. I was on a boat where 4 pinion shafts/gears snapped in one afternoon on AJ's. All brand new at the time. I'm not as pee-ed off as the guy that bought them. I did break two of them. I don't remember the model number. They didn't last long enough for me to give them a second look. If I remember correctly, we never got an AJ to the boat with the reels before they cratered. Not manly enough for me.

Back to the knob subject. I turned a couple of wood knobs to see how I would like the feel of them before having a machine shop mill them out of aluminum. One is 2 1/4" in diameter. The other is 2 9/16" diameter. Only a 5/16 difference, but what a difference in the feel of the knob. I left the ends with the pin center in case I want to place them back on the lathe.

The inside was dug out for placement of finger tips. I think I might have to turn one at 2 3/4". The 1 9/16 feels good but I might need one a little bigger.
 

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Just wondering if anyone has ever seen any studies or reports about the whole "reeling" cycle? Seems like you push, and then you pull, but in a circle. I wonder if any sports doctors have studied fishing?

The shape of the handle could certainly be improved in lots of cases! My favorite one is the one on my Kaikon, but for heavy drag, I've gotta think that big Tiagra "A" handle is the right shape. The articulated handles I didn't like at first, but after trying them on the Avet SDS, I do like the angle.

Anybody have any theories out there? Not fishing, so I can at least be thinking about it.

Hope you get the handle you're looking for Mr. Bill.

Tom - DBG
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
MrBill,
Maybe you should try a wheel off a skateboard.


That's not a bad idea. I just finished searching the web. The wheels range in Diameter from 48mm to 80mm. That's about 1 7/8" to 3 1/4". They cost about 24 bucks each. The only bad thing is the wild graphics that come on them. I'm going to buy one to check it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Deepbluegulf,

I have to agree with you on the new "A" series tiagra handles. They are by far the best feeling handle on the market. When I visited a casting foundry, they fitted my hand to clay. Nothing could match a fit like that one. I'm still thinking about having some cast. They are going to be huge if I do it.

I also bought a hurst gear shift knob on ebay the other day. I thought it might work out. It feels good, but its just to short.

I collect a lot things. One of my collections is of old glass gear shift knobs. I pulled some of them out to see if one would work as a fishing knob. They feel OK used as designed, but turn them sideways like a fishing knob, they just don't feel right.
 

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Just wondering if anyone has ever seen any studies or reports about the whole "reeling" cycle? Seems like you push, and then you pull, but in a circle. I wonder if any sports doctors have studied fishing?

Tom - DBG

I'm certainly not a sport doctor but I've complained about handles and comfort for years. Every time I've gone to a fishing show, I'll tell the Rep's to concentrate on handle design instead of aesthetics and pushing out new models.

Everybody is different in size and fishing style. Long arms, short arms, big hands, little hands, skinny, fat, short, tall.....etc. The relation of the reel to the body is very important. Example: Your jigging with a conventional reel. Your rod is under your left arm pit. Your left hand is going up and down. It's comfortable because your are using your left forearm and bicep. Your right cranking hand is way over to the left side and has almost no cranking power except to crank your jig. Your forearm is doing most of the work. If you hook up with a fish this way and don't move the rod to a gimbal belt or to your right side, a Tiagra style handle is worthless. Keeping the rod under your left arm pit while fighting a fish is stupid (if your right handed) but I see people doing it. A ball style handle is best for this awkward style.

Move the rod to under your right arm pit, and you have incredible cranking power with your right arm. You are using your forearm, bicep and shoulder muscles. One problem is it's awkward to raise and lower the rod with your left hand. Using your armpit for leverage is not a bad idea as long as the rod feels good parked there. Your left bicep and forearm gets a workout while holding onto the rods upper grip.

On bigger reels (50-80's) you have more cranking power the farther away the reel is from your body. I've seen people with the reel right next to their chest trying to crank. This doesn't work. It also is a sure way of high sticking and busting a rod. Once again the angle of hand, arm and reel is constantly changing as you pump up a fish. Using a harness with the reel lugs keeps the distance constant as long as you use your legs. This is the best method for stand up style fishing.

There is no perfect handle, but I suggest getting the one that feels best in a fighting position with extra heavy drag settings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Well, I have made 8 (eight) different wood knobs as prototypes to fit my hand. I finally have one that feels freaking good. It's not for everyone, but it sure is a good fit for me.

I bought a scrap 3x3x3 aluminum block for the first one. Machine shop guy wasn't to excited about starting off from a square. So, I ordered a 3" diameter aluminum rod. I had to order a 24 foot piece. This is going to be the most expensive fishing knob ever made in the history of fishing. That aluminum 3" diameter rod was $25 a foot delivered.:eek:

Here's a few pics.
 

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Mr Bill

You can buy round Aluminum Billet Stock from Ebay in just about any size you need.
I'd recomend 5052 H34 or 6061 T6 material for best saltwater corrosion resistance.

6061 T6 (What most reels are made from) can be annodized just about any color you
want by a plating shop.

You can list the remaining stock on Ebay or have around 96 custom Jig Reel knobs made
and sell them on Ebay or OTI's online store... LOL :)

Bazz
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
What about having one turned from billet aluminum? My F.I.L., though retired, has a full metal shop that he turns ideas from me many times.
And I thought my Pop had meat hooks!

The guy I was working with is so busy that it might be a couple of months before he can touch my knobs. Could you please PM me a way of contacting your F.I.L. I have one more shot at another guy who might help me tomorrow. This is what I need fabricated. I have the round billet stock.
 

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