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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just couldn't justify the cost of the commercially available variety so I did the homemade version of steel targets. The idea hatched at about 8pm last night. these photos were taken at 1pm this afternoon.

Plates are made to be shot on both sides and swapping them around from front to back takes about as much time as stapling a paper target to a piece of cardboard.

Five 1/4" thick steel plates for rimfire, three 3/4" thick steel plates for centerfire (.223/.308):



 

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Is that an approved back stop? Just pullin your leg. Nice job!


It is if you hit the target:D

d-a
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This was hastily thought up and put together. The steel vendor I went to only had 1/4" AR500 in stock so I went with regular 3/4".

The .308 that I use will shoot well under .5MOA all day long with factory loads so I highly doubt I'll ever shoot at this from closer than 500 yards. If it falls apart, it was a learning experience ;)
 

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The way you built it with the free swinging action on the steel plates, nothing will penetrate that 3/4" steel unless you hit it way up near the hinge at close range.

Nice design. I had a 6.5x300 wby mag made for long range silhouette shooting. I can hit a watermelon at 800 yards with it. I've popped a few whitetails on sendero's at 500 yards with it.

I've got a .378 wby mag that when loaded with a 300 gr solid metal jacket will go through engine blocks with no problems. :)
 

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The way you built it with the free swinging action on the steel plates, nothing will penetrate that 3/4" steel unless you hit it way up near the hinge at close range.

Nice design. I had a 6.5x300 wby mag made for long range silhouette shooting. I can hit a watermelon at 800 yards with it. I've popped a few whitetails on sendero's at 500 yards with it.

I've got a .378 wby mag that when loaded with a 300 gr solid metal jacket will go through engine blocks with no problems. :)

Hey,

I think you're right about the swinging absorbing most of the energy. In my mind I was comparing it to a sewer cap I once shot through with a .270 130 gr bronze point, which admittedly is a bit more wallop. And it was a lot closer than 500 yards. Not the smartest thing I ever did, thinking back on it.

Anyway, it''s a clever cheap design and it ought to work great.

F
 
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Ahh, some long range shooters on this forum! I like it. I've got a 3/4" plate of regular steel also. The .308 will not even mar the surface at 500 yards! It will put a good splatter in the paint! I had a 7Rum(that beat the snot out of me and gave me split brow on several occasions) but that baby dug out a 1/4" deep crater out of it at 500 yards!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It will put a good splatter in the paint!

The hope/plan is to shoot one side and while reversing the plates, hit them with a coat of white spray paint so they can be drying while I shoot the other side.

As mentioned above, there was very little forethought put into this, just the trouble an idle mind can get into ;)
 

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Just a word of warning. You should not shoot at steel unless the distance allows most of the energy to dissapate.

And absolutely, do NOT shoot at bowling pins up close unless in a fully enclosed pit as the results are undeterminable.

I shoot more than I FISH!
 
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