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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have solid 80, 130 and 200 JB and am able to make loops in it just as easy as hollow so is there any reason to buy the hollow?
 

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There is no stronger loop than this. It is 100% and also the smoothest, straightest knot. You can only do this with hollow.


TIP: Instead of a latch needle, make a 24" loop puller from #58 wire by bending wire and pinching at the midpoint.

With end of line towards you, insert loop puller tool about 12" from tag end, facing the spool. Push tool about 12" inside main line, going AWAY from tag end, and exit.

At point where tool exits, form a small loop from main line and insert tip of loop into tool. Pull this loop back inside main line. Main line will literally turn inside out. Inserting the smallest tip of loop possible will make this step easier.

Pull loop all the way through and exit. Remove tool and adjust loop to size. Make loop large enough to accommodate size of topshot spool, or wind-on leader coil. Tag end will be hanging along side of main line.

Insert loop puller into main line at point where tag ends. Push tool up towards loop splice and exit at base of splice. Insert tag end into tool and pull all the way back through main line. Exit and remove tool.

Pull ends of both lines to close splice in center. Trim loose ends, and smooth out to bury them inside main line. Finished end loop is 100% strong and will not pull out. Confirm by pulling one side of loop out to the lockpoint.
 

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Thats what I do with the JB solid since it's actually hollow but costs a little less.

If you can make the Reverse-Blind-Splice (tag end spliced outside then inside), then solid weave is fine. I noticed and posted that I could line-to-line splice the OTI the other day but I found it much harder to thread the splicing tool. http://www.360tuna.com/forum/f76/solid-hollow-braid-connection-7157/index3.html#post75355

Let me ask, how hard was it to turn the first splice inside-out on itself?
 

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If you can make the Reverse-Blind-Splice (tag end spliced outside then inside), then solid weave is fine. I noticed and posted that I could line-to-line splice the OTI the other day but I found it much harder to thread the splicing tool. http://www.360tuna.com/forum/f76/solid-hollow-braid-connection-7157/index3.html#post75355

Let me ask, how hard was it to turn the first splice inside-out on itself?
It REALLY depends on your experience level. It is doable with the solid JB. I have done the Reverse-Blind-Splice in 65 lb. ON DRY LAND. It required some patience. I would NOT want to rely on my ability to reproduce this on the water in a hot bite. A short section of hollow core onto the end of my solid core solves this problem for me. Line to line spliced.
Start with large and work down to your own comfort level.
If you ain't breaking some of your knots and splices on purpose, then you'll never have full confidence in your work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you can make the Reverse-Blind-Splice (tag end spliced outside then inside), then solid weave is fine. I noticed and posted that I could line-to-line splice the OTI the other day but I found it much harder to thread the splicing tool. http://www.360tuna.com/forum/f76/solid-hollow-braid-connection-7157/index3.html#post75355

Let me ask, how hard was it to turn the first splice inside-out on itself?

At my table it was just as easy as the hollow with the 80lb.
 

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It REALLY depends on your experience level. It is doable with the solid JB. I have done the Reverse-Blind-Splice in 65 lb. ON DRY LAND. It required some patience. I would NOT want to rely on my ability to reproduce this on the water in a hot bite. A short section of hollow core onto the end of my solid core solves this problem for me. Line to line spliced.
Start with large and work down to your own comfort level.
If you ain't breaking some of your knots and splices on purpose, then you'll never have full confidence in your work.

I'm with you on this one. A line to line splice, from solid to hollow is a great system that has not been explored enough. I believe that an 8-strand solid-weave that does not have too many "picks per inch" can be loose enough to thread a splicing wire through. That is my impression of the braids I've tried so far.

So line could be classed as line-to-line spliceable or not. It would open a big range of full-strength line systems.

Of course, just loading with hollow-weave is pretty simple and in my mind the best choice, except for metered line and very thin line.
 

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I'm with you on this one. A line to line splice, from solid to hollow is a great system that has not been explored enough. I believe that an 8-strand solid-weave that does not have too many "picks per inch" can be loose enough to thread a splicing wire through. That is my impression of the braids I've tried so far.

So line could be classed as line-to-line spliceable or not. It would open a big range of full-strength line systems.

Of course, just loading with hollow-weave is pretty simple and in my mind the best choice, except for metered line and very thin line.

Picks per inch... Please define... Did you go through the strand's weave and continue? Pierce a strand and back out? Or just stick the round part of your wire inside the weave and not get it all out and then carry the fuzz onward???

Been there... Picks per inch should be near ZERO if you want a good splice. Use a wire too...
 

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Picks per inch... Please define... Did you go through the strand's weave and continue? Pierce a strand and back out? Or just stick the round part of your wire inside the weave and not get it all out and then carry the fuzz onward???

Been there... Picks per inch should be near ZERO if you want a good splice. Use a wire too...

Picks-per-inch is a measure of how tightly the weave is woven. A higher number means a tighter weave. We handle hundreds of yards of braid per week making leaders and sometimes even 16-thread "hollow-weave" is so tight you can't get the wire in and yet some 8-thread solid-weave lines can be opened enough to get the splicing wire through

When you make a splice, any fuzz pulled when you make the splice is bad. If you damage the weave, cut it off and begin again. However, on line to line splices, if the line is undamaged, you could exit and reenter. On an end-loop splice, you cannot do that on the first splice because the line gets badly damaged if you do when it is turned inside out.
 
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