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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For spj, I’m fishing a Palmarius 1 and OceaJigger 1501 with PE2. I like the reel but will probably sell the rod as I need to go heavier. modest AJ’s, small grouper and the like are kicking my *ss. i was surprised to see Shimano’s website list 300y of 40lb PowerPro for this reel: if that’s the case sounds like I want a 40lb-class line.

What are y’all using on this reel?
 

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Going heavier in rod action may bring you into a heavier jig or to use a different action jig than you’re using now. I don’t think it will hurt your AJ catching but it could turn your grouper bite off. If the power 1 action is working for grouper why not keep the rod for grouper jigging and buy another AJ set up. Remember you pick a SP rod to specific jig weight for a particular action not the fish targeted. If you are using the rod to move, or horse in the AJ’s maybe consider a that second setup.

Benny
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, it works ok for small (not legal) grouper, sea bass and hinds, grunts and the like — never been able to pull anything substantial out. The jigs I’m fishing are between 80 and 200g, and 100g seems best overall for where I fish 80-130’, but I’m either getting rocked or I sit there for 20 min letting a jack or shark rip drag and eventually cut or break me off.

I really want to be able to put more heat to the fish when I went to. PE2, 30lb fluoro and this 1 rod isn’t putting out much heat. :). For sure I’ve got more jig action, but I think im too far in the light tackle direction.
 

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I fish the 2500 with 30lb diawa j8 to 50lb fluro leader as recommended by many on this site. The few times I have hooked a big fish the braid was not a issue. Big fish have taken line with lock down drag several times. The leader always broke first on the reef.Sometimes the fish wins. I haven't tried the spool lock feature yet. I can't seem to remember i have it during the fight if that is what it's for. Joe
 

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As said above, it's not about the rod. The reel you're using maxes out at 17lbs of drag on its best day. If we're talking effective drag, you're probably in the 12lbs of realistic drag while fishing. This is enough for most reasonable sized fish (hell, I've seen large fish landed on the 1500 but not as regularly). But, if you're looking for larger fish, unless you have tremendous amount of skill and also get lucky with a cooperative fish - you're in for trouble. If you bumped to an Ocea 2000 you move your max drag to about 22lbs, with a very realistic effective drag of about 15lbs - which I've found is enough to stop just about anything, with a little left in the tank if you need to click down a few more notches on the star in an "oh $hit" situation. There's also your thumb. Knowing exactly where your line will break also helps, but to get the feel of that (quite honestly) you need to get beat a few times to really figure out where that point is. Once you have that dialed you're going to be in a better spot knowing how far you can push the gear.

Do not lock the spool on a fish. Don't. You will immediately break off.

Bottom line, if you're getting the action you want out of the rod then look to the reel to make the difference. The reel is going to be the primary tool you use fighting the fish, not the rod.

For reference, I usually use 30lb braid with a 50-60lb leader in all situations you've described above.
 

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As said above, it's not about the rod. The reel you're using maxes out at 17lbs of drag on its best day. If we're talking effective drag, you're probably in the 12lbs of realistic drag while fishing. This is enough for most reasonable sized fish (hell, I've seen large fish landed on the 1500 but not as regularly). But, if you're looking for larger fish, unless you have tremendous amount of skill and also get lucky with a cooperative fish - you're in for trouble. If you bumped to an Ocea 2000 you move your max drag to about 22lbs, with a very realistic effective drag of about 15lbs - which I've found is enough to stop just about anything, with a little left in the tank if you need to click down a few more notches on the star in an "oh $hit" situation. There's also your thumb. Knowing exactly where your line will break also helps, but to get the feel of that (quite honestly) you need to get beat a few times to really figure out where that point is. Once you have that dialed you're going to be in a better spot knowing how far you can push the gear.

Do not lock the spool on a fish. Don't. You will immediately break off.

Bottom line, if you're getting the action you want out of the rod then look to the reel to make the difference. The reel is going to be the primary tool you use fighting the fish, not the rod.

For reference, I usually use 30lb braid with a 50-60lb leader in all situations you've described above.
What happens if you get hung on the bottom with your current line setup which connection breaks off. Leader knot or jig knot?
 

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What happens if you get hung on the bottom with your current line setup which connection breaks off. Leader knot or jig knot?
If I get lucky, the jig comes out. If not, you'll find out which one when you reel up. Most times its the leader knot at the jig. Cost of doing business.
 

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As said above, it's not about the rod. The reel you're using maxes out at 17lbs of drag on its best day. If we're talking effective drag, you're probably in the 12lbs of realistic drag while fishing. This is enough for most reasonable sized fish (hell, I've seen large fish landed on the 1500 but not as regularly). But, if you're looking for larger fish, unless you have tremendous amount of skill and also get lucky with a cooperative fish - you're in for trouble. If you bumped to an Ocea 2000 you move your max drag to about 22lbs, with a very realistic effective drag of about 15lbs - which I've found is enough to stop just about anything, with a little left in the tank if you need to click down a few more notches on the star in an "oh $hit" situation. There's also your thumb. Knowing exactly where your line will break also helps, but to get the feel of that (quite honestly) you need to get beat a few times to really figure out where that point is. Once you have that dialed you're going to be in a better spot knowing how far you can push the gear.

Do not lock the spool on a fish. Don't. You will immediately break off.

Bottom line, if you're getting the action you want out of the rod then look to the reel to make the difference. The reel is going to be the primary tool you use fighting the fish, not the rod.

For reference, I usually use 30lb braid with a 50-60lb leader in all situations you've described above.
If I get lucky, the jig comes out. If not, you'll find out which one when you reel up. Most times its the leader knot at the jig. Cost of doing business.
Good to know, I use 30lb braid with 25 lb fluorocarbon and it breaks at the jig every time I prefer that way easier to tie a new jig over a FG knot bouncing around. Thanks for your feedback
 

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In a few years,
scientists will discover that ocean levels rising,
were not caused by global warming.



But by all the SPJ jigs lost over the past decade.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Bottom line, if you're getting the action you want out of the rod then look to the reel to make the difference. The reel is going to be the primary tool you use fighting the fish, not the rod.

For reference, I usually use 30lb braid with a 50-60lb leader in all situations you've described above.
So day 3 (spending a week at the coast and for once the weather has been friendly) and I’m getting better at feeling that ”edge”. A medium American red gave me all I could handle and then some, on this rig, so I think I’m going to trade up for a 2000, or add a reel in that class.
 

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I've dabbled in the super light leader (30lb and under) for SPJ and it's a scary game in our area. The 30lb just doesn't have enough umph in it. I haven't noticed any difference in strikes since bumping the leader up. The way I look at it, if the fish is willing to attack a piece of metal that doesn't look like a fish, with hooks flying all around, it's not going to care that I have a slightly wider piece of clear fluoro attached to it.

Contrast that with a bait situation where the fish is actively inspecting what it's about to eat. There, the lighter leader certainly helps.
 

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Here is your/the problem.

30lb is light, but semi-ok if fishing midwater.
If near or at the bottom, no bueno, too many nasties down there.
30lb leader also kind of limits you to a 10/12 lb drag setting,
again, no bueno for any worthwhile fish, as you have no stopping power.
30lb leader, once knicked or abraded is now mid teen lb leader, again no bueno.

So, hoping that 30lb is somehow going to get you more bites,
causes all of the above,
which greatly increases the amount of lost fish you will have,
so any tiny gain in bites, hint, there are none,
will be offset by the additional loses caused by all the above issues
from 30lb leader.

40-50lb is the range you should be using,
and if the fish species is not leader shy
and you are near the bottom, then 60.
You will land many more fish,
and buy many less jigs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So...yeah, I have come to the conclusion I need to upgrade line and leader. Last day of fishing I had a horrible birds nest tossing to something breaking the surface (got lazy checking the 'fall' lever, which is more trouble than needed, tbh), and had to cut off a bunch of line, and steal a leader from another rod which had 50lb fluoro. Didn't fish much longer, but didn't lose anything and noticed a surprising amount of fraying even on the 50lbs, end of day.

For the 1501 OJ I'm going to ditch the spooled line and go to a 30lb class braid and 50lb fluoro leader. I might also look around my tackle room and see what i could sell to offset the price of a 2001PG OJ. I will say until now, I've not appreciated the difference in touch the conventional brings, and really feeling the bite on the fall, which I think is where I'm getting most action.
 

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For the 1501 OJ I'm going to ditch the spooled line and go to a 30lb class braid and 50lb fluoro leader.
Still too light on mainline to have an effective drag setting
to stop any semi worthwhile fish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Still too light on mainline to have an effective drag setting
to stop any semi worthwhile fish.
Oh, I don't think you're wrong, but I don't think I can go much past 30lb line on the 1501 w/out losing significant capacity. I've got a couple spinning outfits with heavier line (50lb and 65lb on 6k and 8k class reels, respectively) that I bring along and use for live or cut bait, and those are much more effective at catching, anyway. The SPJ outfit is for fun, and I'll probably upgrade it. I think a 2001 non-F reel will be perfect.
 

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Oh, I don't think you're wrong, but I don't think I can go much past 30lb line on the 1501 w/out losing significant capacity.
You can get about 300 yards of 40lb on that reel.

300 yards is enough for tuna fishing,
more than sufficient for jigging in water up to 500 feet.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ha. I sold a few odds and ends, took a bucket of change to the coin counter, and just bought a lightly used Ocea Jigger 2001 -- non fall-lever. Unfortunately, my 1501 is broken (fall lever assembly came apart and a couple pieces jumped into the ocean), so now I'm reduced to spinning tackle until replacement parts and this 2001 arrive from Japan.

So I'll ultimately have a 'light' outfit and a 'medium' outfit.
 

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Diawa Jbraid 8 and Grand #30 both have an ABS about #50 with a line diameter of .033. I'm trying out Ocean Silk braid #80 with an ABS of #86 with a line diameter of .037. Not much difference in how much line you can pack on a spool.
 
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