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Senior Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·


180mm & 70 gm - surface skipper & subsurface jerkbait.



150mm & 50 gm - subsurface jerkbait ( my favorite lure type & retrieve )



150mm & 60gm
subsurface dart & swim on a straight fast retrieve , or subsurface jerkbait.

lure weights are without hooks.
All are slow sinking lures
all are made from Huon Pine timber ( ex Tasmania)
- hand shaped ( bandsaw , dremel sanding drum & garnet paper)
- lead ballast for the desired action ( seated in car body filler ).
- 2-pack primer
- holo tape
- envirotex lite epoxied
-base colours ( airbrush )
- envirotex lite epoxied
- 2 coats 2K 2-pack clear polyurethane ( airbrush )
- thru wired with a belly hook dropper from the thru wire. (both 400#)

My supply of Huon Pine is running low, so I'm going to have to move to making some molds & casting in resin methinks.
 

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Nice work! If you get one you really like it is worth spending some money to make a mold and use casting resigns. Those casting resigns work excellent for stick bait type plugs.
 

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Denis, those are absolutely beautiful!!! Please let us know how they perform (take lots of pics of them in the mouths of the small boys you have swimming around down there;) ) Really impressive work!
 

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Great job, those look sweet.

Are you cutting a belly channel for the thru wire or laminating 2 pieces of stock to center the wire ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
very nice Denis, the third one looks a lot like the oti wave dancer. How long did they take to turn?

No turning, all hand shaped.
bandsaw rough cut on all 4 sides & then shaped with a little dremel sanding drum, finished with garnet paper.
shaping from scratch takes about 20 min.

Denis, those are absolutely beautiful!!! Please let us know how they perform (take lots of pics of them in the mouths of the small boys you have swimming around down there;) ) Really impressive work!

Andy , yep the yellowfin fishery has declined, but we had a resurgence of big Bluefin this winter ( largest was 335# from memory) . I have designs on next year's migration, but its a deepwater fishery & often well offshore.
Having a 100' purse seiner with an awsome omni-sonar ( picks up 5T patches at 3000M ) & a spotter plane in the company, I have intent to steal some spotting time ............so I am getting ready.

Great job, those look sweet.

Are you cutting a belly channel for the thru wire or laminating 2 pieces of stock to center the wire ?

Neither, I made a jig for the drill press to drill the hole for the thru wire head to tail.
I drill a 6mm hole in the belly for the belly hook & then drill head to the belly hole & tail to the belly hole. gets pretty close most times & just needs a bit of adjustment to line the holes up.
I drill the pilot hole with a 160mm x 1/16" dia drill & then adjust where necessary with a slightly larger drill.
 

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Randy Bassinga
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1,407 Posts
Denis
I have been trying to locate some skinny long gar imitations with 1.5cm cups without luck. Do you have any ideas on a DIY with these. Around 8" and 2cm max OD and 60-80g overall weight
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Great job, those look sweet.

Are you cutting a belly channel for the thru wire or laminating 2 pieces of stock to center the wire ?

Here is the drillstand jig I use for drilling thru-wire holes.

I found I needed to extend the drillstand shaft to suit the lures & long drills, so I replaced the shaft with an 800mm length of ground 25mm steel rod.
( same as the OEM shaft ).
- a long pointed pin in a vertical vice clamp
- pin needs to be perfectly straight & longer than the lures.
- the trick for straight holes is to start with a short standard drill length & then change to longer drills as the hole gets deeper. If you start with a long drill it is not rigid enough & can wander off centre easily.
I use 3 drill lengths
-std
- 95mm
-160mm.

Set the pin near max length & with the 160mm drill in the chuck align the drill with the pin exactly.( do this with the drill stand handle pulled down ).
- once aligned ..........do not adjust the drill head on the stand........all length adjustments are made by adjusting the length of the base pin in the
vice clamp.

after drilling a small 1/8" deep pilot hole in the nose & tail of the lure with a hand drill to locate on the pin.
replace the long drill with the short std drill & start drilling both ends towards the belly hanger hole.
With the lure held on the pin the drill can only aim straight towards the pilot hole at the other end..............works for me.
Change out to the middle size drill , adjust pin height & drill both holes deeper.
Change out to the longest drill & drill deeper again.
- dont drill past the belly hanger hole........it makes aligning the thru wire harder !!!!.
- on longer lures the tail hole will not drill all the way thru to the belly hanger hole with the depth available from the drill stand ...........I drill the last bit freehand.

The most missalignment I get is less than 1/8" at the belly hanger hole.
I use a 1/8" x 160mm long drill bit to adjust the alignment of the thru holes.
( anything less than 1/8" dia is too flexible & makes angle adjustment almost impossible



Hope that helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Denis
I have been trying to locate some skinny long gar imitations with 1.5cm cups without luck. Do you have any ideas on a DIY with these. Around 8" and 2cm max OD and 60-80g overall weight

Rohit;
there are some good "needlefish"/"pencil popper" designs on SurfTalk .com and easy to make on a wood lathe as they are concentric. A number of guys there sell their creations commercially. So you can get a couple of different ones & try the actions to settle on what you want .
There are also a couple of US manufacturers of needlefish bodies you can buy as kits & assemble yourself.
Have a look at:-
- Saltybugger.com
and
- Tackleunderground.com > links> component suppliers.( have to search amongst these ).

Certainly nothing much like them out here in Oz.

Youngest son is addicted to popping with Gar imitations from the rocks for Tailor, Salmon & Kings.
 

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Randy Bassinga
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1,407 Posts
Thanks Denis, I have been looking at the ones on sol and some are the weights that I want but what I am trying to find is something that can bee blooped a bit. I'll try your tips on drilling out some likely dowel. Just not sure on how to shape consistent cups
 

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Senior Member
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
a decent cupping tool can be made from an old chisel ground to a 45 Deg angle and then radiused to suit the cup concave face you want, followed by back edge relief & sharpening.
Working slowly from the straight face is the name of the game.

BTW
I forgot to mention that the drillstand base in the above post needs to have a 1/2" -3/4" hole drilled thru it to allow the pin to have enough length adjustment downwards.
 
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