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Note: I have posted additional Photos later in the thread.
It can be useful to add Hollow Spectra to the end of a solid Spectra main line. This could allow for loop to loop attachment of leaders or more line.
Attached is a photo of 60# Jerry Brown Hollow spliced to 55# Daiwa Boat Braid. It holds full strength. But even with closely matched lines, there is still a very slight difference of stretch between the solid and the hollow. This means that the splice can creep ever so slightly after 20 - 30 100% load cycles. Although this should not be a problem in use, I added a safety Uni Knot at the end of the solid spectra line so that you can tell if there has been any movement.
Simple Instructions (when I get time I'll do a photo sequence):
This is a 3' (or more if you like) splice of solid Spectra braid into closely matched Jerry Brown Hollow Core Spectra. If you match the size of the hollow and size of the solid closely, the difference in rates of stretch is tiny and the splice only shifts about 0.1% under 100% load (most drags are set at 25% to 33%). (I have tested this with a 1' insertion and it holds if the lines are closely matched.)
So start by inserting the Solid one foot in from the end of the JB Hollow so that a 1' tag is hanging for a Uni Knot serve later. Pull the solid into the hollow 3' and pull a foot of Solid out the side wall at the end of the splice. This isn't needed for strength but is used to form a safety. Tie the Uni safety an inch beyond where the solid exits the splice. Bury a 1/2" tag from the Uni safety knot back into the JB. (If the Uni tag pops out, the splice has moved a half inch. It is still 100% strong but you should readjust it. This solves the potential differential stretch problem.)
Now, smooth out the splice area so the hollow is tightly on top of the solid inside it. Take the 1' of Hollow Spectra at the start of the splice and tie a Uni Knot Serve, VERY tightly, at the solid/hollow interface. (This Uni Knot serve, tied with the hollow-line tag, can be tied so that it is directly over the end of the serve; or works okay even if it pulls onto the solid core. The best way to make this Uni knot is at the 2 minute 30 second point of:
P.R. Bobbin Knot)
One last note: I have not shown how to make the end-loop splice. This end loop can be made small or large. If you're casting a lot, you may want it to be as small as a dime. The end-loop splice is easier, more reliable, stronger and easier to size than a Bimini Twist (a knot I used to use a lot.) BHP Tackle has tools if you need them (I use wire) and some notes on how to make the end-loop. It is easy to do and gets easier as the line strength goes up.
Also, you could use this to splice solid to solid by replacing the end-loop in my photo with another solid/hollow splice.
If you have the time to do this you get 100% strength compared with 70% strength Uni to Uni. This will allow reels to be loaded with metered solid braid but still take advantage of loop to loop connections.
It can be useful to add Hollow Spectra to the end of a solid Spectra main line. This could allow for loop to loop attachment of leaders or more line.
Attached is a photo of 60# Jerry Brown Hollow spliced to 55# Daiwa Boat Braid. It holds full strength. But even with closely matched lines, there is still a very slight difference of stretch between the solid and the hollow. This means that the splice can creep ever so slightly after 20 - 30 100% load cycles. Although this should not be a problem in use, I added a safety Uni Knot at the end of the solid spectra line so that you can tell if there has been any movement.
Simple Instructions (when I get time I'll do a photo sequence):
This is a 3' (or more if you like) splice of solid Spectra braid into closely matched Jerry Brown Hollow Core Spectra. If you match the size of the hollow and size of the solid closely, the difference in rates of stretch is tiny and the splice only shifts about 0.1% under 100% load (most drags are set at 25% to 33%). (I have tested this with a 1' insertion and it holds if the lines are closely matched.)
So start by inserting the Solid one foot in from the end of the JB Hollow so that a 1' tag is hanging for a Uni Knot serve later. Pull the solid into the hollow 3' and pull a foot of Solid out the side wall at the end of the splice. This isn't needed for strength but is used to form a safety. Tie the Uni safety an inch beyond where the solid exits the splice. Bury a 1/2" tag from the Uni safety knot back into the JB. (If the Uni tag pops out, the splice has moved a half inch. It is still 100% strong but you should readjust it. This solves the potential differential stretch problem.)
Now, smooth out the splice area so the hollow is tightly on top of the solid inside it. Take the 1' of Hollow Spectra at the start of the splice and tie a Uni Knot Serve, VERY tightly, at the solid/hollow interface. (This Uni Knot serve, tied with the hollow-line tag, can be tied so that it is directly over the end of the serve; or works okay even if it pulls onto the solid core. The best way to make this Uni knot is at the 2 minute 30 second point of:
P.R. Bobbin Knot)
One last note: I have not shown how to make the end-loop splice. This end loop can be made small or large. If you're casting a lot, you may want it to be as small as a dime. The end-loop splice is easier, more reliable, stronger and easier to size than a Bimini Twist (a knot I used to use a lot.) BHP Tackle has tools if you need them (I use wire) and some notes on how to make the end-loop. It is easy to do and gets easier as the line strength goes up.
Also, you could use this to splice solid to solid by replacing the end-loop in my photo with another solid/hollow splice.
If you have the time to do this you get 100% strength compared with 70% strength Uni to Uni. This will allow reels to be loaded with metered solid braid but still take advantage of loop to loop connections.
