Double Braided Spectra Loop

DSG: Is this what you mean by going through the loop repeatedly?

http://www.bhptackle.com/pages.php?pageid=14

I am really surprised by what you say about it being quicker to cut and resplice the hollow line. I would have never thought that. But then, that's why I ask.

Scott: I agree that a couple of feet would be big enough, but I am having trouble picturing in my mind's eye whether the two loops would then intersect in the figure 8 the way they are supposed to, or whether they would end up in the form where they cut each other under pressure.

DavidG: When you mention the "small loops" am I correct in assuming that you mean the double loops I am talking about?

Edit: While I'm at it, having received a lot of good advice, I have sent off for all the tools and materials for making my own bottom rigs. Now I am finishing up the research on how to make wind-ons. I pretty thoroughly understand both the serving "finger cuff" method and the Sato crimp method. The folks who make the Sato crimps say they won't damage SIC or roller guides, and I have found nothing to the contrary on the internet. Going top-of-the line with both methods is going to cost about $300.00. So my question is this: Which method--i.e. which leaders do you all prefer?

Thanks,

Russ

That is a loop to loop connection done correctly.

I do not put the tail end through the loop more than once. This is MY way. I have tested this connection and I am confident with its preformance.

I suggest that you to practice removing a tightened (with properly set drag) loop to loop join at home. I am sure that you are capable. It is an eye opening experiment. Then you have the insight needed to make your decision.

The Sato crimp system is proven. I choose to not use it because it has a metal crimp that salt will damage. I fish several times a year and try to fish several days each time. I clean my gear after each trip. Now lets say that I used a wind-on or top-shot that I made using a spectra serve but, did not catch any fish on it. I feel that it is OK for the next trip. I lack that confidence in a metal crimp.

No matter what method you choose as yours for fishing, destructively test it. Breaking knots, line, crimps, serves, swivels.... ect.. will improve your knowledge and confidence in your fishing methods. Try it on and see if it fits.

DSG: I think I see what you are saying--you just pull one loop through the other and that still is difficult to pull apart. I knew the one in the link would be about as hard to separate as an offshore swivel knot. I didn't suspect, however, that a simple single pullthrough of two loops would be that hard. I definitely need to play with that, I agree.

Also, I had not thought of the corrosion angle--just two thoughts were causing me to lean toward the served connection--first, the possibility of guide damage, and second, the possibility that it might not be fool proof as to how to do the crimp. But I see what you are saying.

I have always been a nut for testing knots and now with offshore tackle and more complex, heavy-duty connections, it's going to be more fun. I hope the garage can remain standing.

Russ

Yes, my 'small loop' are a 4' length 200# hollow JB with loops pulled in both ends.

I like to loop-to-loop the catspaw 3 or 4 times (like in the BHPtackle link above) for the specific reason its easy to get my pick between middle of the loop and open it up when changing it out. With only one loop-to-loop its very hard to get anything in between the loops to spread them.

As for costs I think its cheaper to use the serve method, especially if you don't buy all the spectra needles. I would suggest buying a few of Basil's windons if you want to see what the finished product should look like. I haven't made any that look quite as good as his but each one I do looks better that the one before. From what I read, the Sato system is generally used for direct inserting your topshot into the spectra. The topshot is then tied or crimped directly on a hook.

I pull loops with single strand wire (small package of ~30# test is < $2), I use a 20# spectra line (don't remember the brand but it was an uncoated version that was ~$10 for 100yards) for serving mono/spectra connections, JB Spectra adhesive system (~$25). I also use a small thread spool and a fly tieing bobbin to hold my 20# sprectra when serving a transition. I built a small jig that clamps to my workbench (or a table) with two spring loaded clamps about 1' apart that holds the transition firmly while I serve it.

Here's a great thread that should answer just about any question on pulling loops in hollow spectra (especially the posts from Basil). Lots of good pics and diagrams using both doubled wire and latch hooks (As DrShark would say doodads)

http://www.senortuna.com/main/showthread.php?t=9677

David