daiwa saltiga 30T rebuild

Discussion in 'Reel Repair' started by alantani, Apr 12, 2007.

  1. alantani

    alantani Senior Member

    453
    4
    ah, daiwa......

    it seems like the argument is always penn versus shimano. daiwa makes a great line of reels. the saltiga is perhaps one of the finest small baitcasters made. first, pull the schematics.

    http://mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/schematic.php?url=Daiwa/Daiwa%20Saltiga%2030T,%2040,%2050.pdf

    here is my personal favorite. it's the 30T. well balanced, very powerful, it's small size makes casting a small sardine a piece of cake. i borrowed one of these on my one an only 10 day trips a couple of years ago and absolutely fell in love with the reel. everything about this reel says quality!

    [​IMG]

    um, but this one had a small oops! a friend of mine had this loaded with spectra and was fishing for salmon dragging a 2.5 pound lead ball on a sinker release. he heard a pop, saw the spool displaced laterally and retired the reel for the day. then he brought it to me.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    first, let's pull all of the left side plate screws (key #21) and remove the left side plate assembly (key #6).

    [​IMG]

    the spool (ouch!) comes out cleanly, leaving you with three pieces.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    the right spool bearing (key #3) needs to be cleaned first, so let's remove the rubber water shield (key #4), pull out the bearing, remove the bearing shields, clean the bearing and lube it up. for a full discussion on bearings, do a search under key word "bearings" and author name "alantani".

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    the left side plate bearing (key #10) is buried pretty deep. i decided just to lube it up without pulling the shields. it should be fine.

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_113.jpg

    ok, back together it goes. don't forget to add a bead of grease to all the screw holes. now, if all you want to do is lube, clean or replace the bearings, then this is as far as you need to go.

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_114.jpg

    want to replace the drag washers? ok, onward! remove the handle nut screw (key #68), the handle nut (key #67) and the handle assembly (key #'s 61-66).

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_115.jpg

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_116.jpg

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_117.jpg

    remove the star drag (key #59) and spacing sleeve B (key #60), the click spring assembly (key #'s 57 and 58), the two drag spring washers (key #56) and bearing washer D (key #55).

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_118.jpg

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_119.jpg

    ok, the handle and star are off. now for the right side plate. remove all of the right side plate screws (key #53).

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_120.jpg

    wiggle the right side plate assembly (key #41, et.al.) and it should come straight up and off.

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_121.jpg

    here's a little trick. the metal drag washers are often a little tough to remove. when you bolt down the handle nut, the spacing sleeve B (key #60) presses down on the shoulder of the drive shaft (key#24). the shoulder is slightly deformed. a couple of gentle strokes of a flat file will remove this "burr" and the gear and drag stack will come off easily. easy, not too much.

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_122.jpg

    the gear cluster now comes off easily, revealing a carbon fiber drag washer installed several years ago by your's truly. we're going to remove these old penn drag washers, clean up all the metal washers and install a new set of carbontex drag washers.

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_123.jpg

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_124.jpg

    not really much to this reel. it's actually very simple.

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_125.jpg

    now for a new set of carbontex drag washers.

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_126.jpg

    i'm going to slap a nice, thick juicy coat of drag grease on these washers because i know that really annoys those people that still do not belive in drag grease!

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_128.jpg

    and then the drag stack goes back together. remember to alternate the metal washers; keyed, eared, keyed, eared, keyed. also add bearing washer D (key #55) and then spacing sleeve A (key #40). bearing washer D goes under the spacing sleeve. this is contrary to the schematics but it makes the installation easier.

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_129.jpg

    i've got a ratty old toothbrush that i'm going to use to brush a light coat of grease all through the inside of the side plate. take a moment to squirt a little corrosion x into the right side plate bearing (key #43) as well.

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_130.jpg

    the drive shaft bearing (key #54) is particularly at risk for corrosion. pop out the bearing, remove the shields, pack the bearing with grease, replace the bearing and install it back into the side plate.

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_131.jpg

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_132.jpg

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_133.jpg

    add a bead of grease to all the screw holes.

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_135.jpg

    if you did not monkey with the clutch lever (key #48) or the yoke plate (key #28), the right side plate should snap right back into place.

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_136.jpg

    install bearing washer D (key #55), a pair of drag spring washers (key # 56) cupped "( )", and the click leaf spring assembly (key #'s 57 and 58).

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_142.jpg

    grease up the drive shaft (key #24). grease all the little crevasses on the star (key #59) and install it.

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_138.jpg

    grease spacing sleeve B (key #60) and install it.

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_139.jpg

    add a little grease to the handle arm (key #61) around the drive shaft, install the handle nut (key #67) and screw (key #68).

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_140.jpg

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_141.jpg

    done! now we just have to see if daiwa will send us a new spool. this old spool never should have failed and i'm hoping daiwa will extent the warranty and send us a new one for free!

    http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_108.jpg
     
  2. feeder

    feeder Senior Member

    358
    0
    Holy smokes that's the first time I've ever seen a spool break up like that :eek:

    I think daiwa should definately replace that free of charge. A lot of other bits on a reel I can understand them saying no to replacing but that just shows something was wrong with that spool batch.
     

  3. captdeej

    captdeej Senior Member

    184
    0
    Alantani,

    Great post I have been waiting for this one!

    I just purchased a 30 surf for jigging stripers and tuna later this season, and was wondering if I sould replace the drag washers with carbonex now or wait it out for its first maintenance service?

    The surf addition is supposed to have a better floating spool, do you think the internals are the same as the saltiga regular series?
     
  4. alantani

    alantani Senior Member

    453
    4
    i'll take a look later, but is should be the same.