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Discussion Starter #1

This is an overhead spiral wrapped Black Hole Cape Cod special 250g.

Fuji alconites apart from the tip which is an ICMNST (Ion coated stainless with Fuji SIC ring) Alps reel seat with some added metal bling plus a Fuji rubber gimbal and it has come up a treat.

I did the pattern and my brother built virtually the rest. As usual he nailed it perfectly.

Can't wait to see it in action.













 

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Big mistake with the Alps sorry to say....Due to the parabolic nature of the rod its designed to bend through the blank thus a graphite seat is recommended. Hate to see that beautiful work last only one trip as a putting heat on a big fish may cause it to snap at the seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
We've already made two with Alps seats. This is the third. I totally get where you are coming from but there is a lot of clearance on the ID of the reel seat to the blank. The arbors were reasonably high. I believe it will have to cop some serious drag to get enough bend in it to cause an issue like you are describing. It's possible but it would have to be more than 10 kilos of drag, at least before the seat comes into play. I should mention the rear grip is not too long, 250 mm from memory (will have to check) and that will help.
I honestly don't feel it's an issue.
 

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Bunny said:
We've already made two with Alps seats. This is the third. I totally get where you are coming from but there is a lot of clearance on the ID of the reel seat to the blank. The arbors were reasonably high. I believe it will have to cop some serious drag to get enough bend in it to cause an issue like you are describing. It's possible but it would have to be more than 10 kilos of drag, at least before the seat comes into play. I should mention the rear grip is not too long, 250 mm from memory (will have to check) and that will help.
I honestly don't feel it's an issue.
I only say that because we did have an issue with that in the past and have posted not to use them. I consistently max my reels drag out on that rod...close to 30#s with no worries.
The rod is a work of art good luck with it
 

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beautiful work Bunny!
Dont you have the issue of line cutting into the foregrip when you reach 20lbs of drag or so?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wow that's a lot of drag! This is actually for a boy about 11 years old or thereabouts. I reckon he'll manage only about 7 kilos for the first year or two!! Doubt he'll ever get to 30lb!
I can certainly see a potential issue with that much.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ReelMe said:
beautiful work Bunny!
Dont you have the issue of line cutting into the foregrip when you reach 20lbs of drag or so?
Not with that high frame guide placed like that. It even lets you put your thumb around the foregrip which is a natural thing for a lot of anglers. This lets you do it.
 

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Bunny said:
Not with that high frame guide placed like that. It even lets you put your thumb around the foregrip which is a natural thing for a lot of anglers. This lets you do it.
hmmm, looks like it is close to the factory placement. I have a 250g acid wrapped factory rod that the line cuts into the foregrip under loads around 20lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What type of guide is the factory stripper? Also what position is it along the rod from the butt?
This stripped guide is a BLCAG size 20 which is pretty high. Plus it's reversed so sits quite close to the foregrip.
 

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Ohh I dont know all that lol. Im sure there must be some differences that solve this issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'll check the factory specs tomorrow when I'm on a proper computer. My guess is that's its an MNSG guide, much lower height and is probably the difference.
 

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Great looking build. You shouldn't have any issues unless you use a bracket/harness combo. If you're fighting the fish by hand, you can make adjustments and the bend never has to get deep enough to affect the reel seat or foregrip
 

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Discussion Starter #16
throwingtimber said:
Looks great bunny. If you dont mind where were you able to source the night camo eva?
I got a batch from Merrick tackle while they were still around. Not sure where you would get this stuff from now. Fuji sells the smaller lots which are great for light outfits but don't know where the longer thicker stuff comes from sorry.
Matagi is worth checking out.
 

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Very nice work Mark

As for the issue of aluminium reelseats on parabolic rods...................
it is a real issue ...............the stress estimates show & Nev's factory tests proved a 25% loss in max strength with a solid epoxy fitment of aluminium reel seat due to stress concentration at the front of the reelseat ( every repeated test failed adjacent to the front of the reelseat).

The solution is designing the reelseat installation to allow the blank movement under load...............so you don't lock up the bending moments on the blank inside the reelseat
- flexible epoxy ( Devcon make one ) rather than the typical quite rigid rod glues ( like rodbond etc).............but I have never seen it on sale in Oz ( sadly).
- flexible arbours , eg foamed "rigid" PE , ( and using 2 short arbor sleeves instead of a full length arbor)..............enough longitudinal & radial strength to hold the reelseat in place but not more than needed reliably for the job.

mitigate the problem within quite high duty loads.

You have built & successfully used 2 previously so this one has "proof testing" in its family.................... the above summary about stress concentration issues with "pretty" aluminium reelseats on parabolic rods is for the benefit of those who might not have lurked on or read the 360T discussion some time back on the subject & the work that Nev did in destructive testing a handful of expensive Synit blanks that he donated............as he had a lot of baseline data on the blanks from routine factory testing of the unadorned blanks .

FWIW
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That's very interesting Denis. As it turns out, we use two short arbour sleeves.
On the subject of the hard epoxy, what would be the difference with hard epoxy on a metal seat vs the non metal kinds? Does the seat offer enough flex to let the epoxy move with the blank?
One thing we would like to see with these types of blanks (in fact almost all types) is. It to have a glossy finish butt section. It makes the blank look nice but you have to sand off that section to ensure a good bond of the epoxy. It's especially important with a blank that flexes in that area.
 

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Black Hole Cape Cod Special 450g custom rod with aluminum reel seat got broken near the real seat while
fighting big bluefin in NC. This was the only case the 450g rod ever got broken.
We caught several bluefin in 600 - 900 lb with the 450g using graphite reel seats without issue.

In theory, the blank get bent under pressure, but the aluminum reel seat prevents further bending which
could cause the breakage of the blank. We are not talking about 20 - 30 lb drag, but about 40 lb - 50 lb
drag.

But, I used my custom Black Hole Cape Cod Special with aluminum reel seat and landed 650 lb giant using upto 65 lb drag. Greg landed 773 lb giant using similar Black Hole Cape Cod Special 450g with aluminum reel
seat using 65 - 70 lb drag.
It makes me wonder. In retrospect, I suspect that the broken rod might have a defect.

However, I don't see any reasoning to use alluminum reel seats for jigging rods. Graphite reel seats have no issue and it is more convenient. It seems rod builders who don't have much experience in jigging,
recommend alluminum reel seats.


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