Chunking/Bottom Rod Component List

Discussion in 'Rod Building' started by red34, Sep 11, 2008.

  1. red34

    red34 Guest

    I would like to build a chunking / bottom rod for a Tiagra 30 WLRS w/ 100# Spectra. This would be my first attempt of this type of build. Please look at my component list and tell me if I have the right Idea.


    Aftco Unibutt - #4 Black/Shimano Gold - Regular/Straight
    Aftch HD Roller Guide Set
    Aftco Std Roller Top LG
    Seeker Long Range Stand-Up Tuna - 5'6" 80# S655XXH
    EVA Tapered Grip
    Flocked Rubber Shrink Tube X Pattern Foregrip


    I'm at approx $250 with the thread and finish products.
     
  2. Sea Crappie

    Sea Crappie Senior Member

    366
    0
    Do you intend to troll with the rod?

    If you don't intend to troll, I'd steer clear of uni-butts. Unless you buy the curved version, I find them too long for heavy duty stand-up. If you decide to go ahead anyway, go to a shop which has rods built on this uni-butt and test some out with YOUR harness to MAKE SURE they fit you comfortably. Also, they provide no benefit at all unless you troll and / or buy a stor-a-butt version to break the rod down for easy storage. Even if you want to troll, I'd suggest a "slick butt" made of high strength plastic over a uni-butt nearly every time.

    Normal heavy duty guides are just fine as long as you use only wind-ons and don't put a double line in your wind-on leaders.

    I'm also not the biggest fan of x-wrap but there's nothing really wrong w/ it. I've moved to using rail rod grips (super tough cork composite) on most of my heavy conventional builds, staying away from hypalon and EVA. They look better (to me) and are much much tougher.

    One cool customization to consider: On these shorter rods, sometimes the line leaves the reel at an angle that's a touch too steep for the first guide. To solve this problem, instead of going 51, 41, 41, 31, 31 you can go #47 W/O, 51, 41, 31, 31. It takes the line down more smoothly and looks really cool.

    Also, Rodbuilding.org, check it out. Rodmaker Magazine did a wonderful article on building stand-up rods. Search the site and you'll find the issue #. It's incredibly informative and since this is your first attempt I can't recommend it highly enough. Back issues are easy to order.

    You picked a great blank and components. Good luck!
     

  3. red34

    red34 Guest

    v
    Do you intend to troll with the rod?

    Probably not. I don't own a boat and usually guys that do have a boat set.

    If you don't intend to troll, I'd steer clear of uni-butts. Unless you buy the curved version, I find them too long for heavy duty stand-up. If you decide to go ahead anyway, go to a shop which has rods built on this uni-butt and test some out with YOUR harness to MAKE SURE they fit you comfortably.

    Don't have that yet either, so both would be new to me. Probably looking at the brute buster??? (i think)

    Also, they provide no benefit at all unless you troll and / or buy a stor-a-butt version to break the rod down for easy storage. Even if you want to troll, I'd suggest a "slick butt" made of high strength plastic over a uni-butt nearly every time.

    If I use fiberglass tape, do I fill the whole uni-butt with epoxy. when I've used these before they seemed a little heavy as well. But that could've been cause I was using too much epoxy.

    Normal heavy duty guides are just fine as long as you use only wind-ons and don't put a double line in your wind-on leaders.

    Usually a very short double line...2-3 ft on trolling set-ups. Probably even shorter since I wouldn't constantly troll with this.

    I'm also not the biggest fan of x-wrap but there's nothing really wrong w/ it. I've moved to using rail rod grips (super tough cork composite) on most of my heavy conventional builds, staying away from hypalon and EVA. They look better (to me) and are much much tougher.

    Like cork tape on a surf rod???

    One cool customization to consider: On these shorter rods, sometimes the line leaves the reel at an angle that's a touch too steep for the first guide. To solve this problem, instead of going 51, 41, 41, 31, 31 you can go #47 W/O, 51, 41, 31, 31. It takes the line down more smoothly and looks really cool.

    Sweet! Thanks for that tip. I'll see if Mudhole will throw that together for me.

    Also, Rodbuilding.org, check it out. Rodmaker Magazine did a wonderful article on building stand-up rods. Search the site and you'll find the issue #. It's incredibly informative and since this is your first attempt I can't recommend it highly enough. Back issues are easy to order.

    You picked a great blank and components. Good luck!
     
  4. Sea Crappie

    Sea Crappie Senior Member

    366
    0
    A plastic slick butt will be heavier than just using hypalon or rail rod grips on the butt. It will probably weigh about the same as a uni-butt. Since you won't be trolling, I seriously recommend not getting an Aftco Uni-butt. It will cost you more money and give you flat to negative performance characteristics. I would assume since you don't own your own boat you might use long range boats like the Big E. If so, that's another knock against uni-butts. If a deckhand is gonna pass my rod around to avoid tangles, I'd rather have a rear grip with some tack than slick aluminum.

    Consider buying a harness and plate before you build the rod. This will ensure that you build it in dimensions which work with your harness instead of working against you.

    To install a slick butt, I use drywall tape to build up arbors with about an inch in between. You can use foam arbors too (from acidrod.com) and reduce the weight some more. Remember though, you're building a heavy (100lb class) chunking and bottom rod and weight isn't much of a concern here. I could give you suggestions on an ultralight setup to do this, but you won't be using a Tiagra 30W.

    If you want to use Heavy Duty guides w/ a 100lb+ mono topshot, I'd avoid double lines or else you'll have knot clearance problems on the bimini. A 100lb mono bimini is muy grande.

    These are examples of rail rod grips:

    Johnny's Pond Rail Rod Grips

    http://www.merricktackle.com/PDF/Rod_Building/feather_inlays.pdf (pg 57)

    Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
     
  5. txseadog

    txseadog Moderator

    675
    5
    I couple of other points to consider.



    I would like to build a chunking / bottom rod for a Tiagra 30 WLRS w/ 100# Spectra. This would be my first attempt of this type of build. Please look at my component list and tell me if I have the right Idea.


    Aftco Unibutt - #4 Black/Shimano Gold - Regular/Straight
    I would also suggest using a slick butt and regular reel seat & gimbal but if you're set on a unibutt drop down to the #2 size so you don't have such a big void to fill with tape/arbor/epoxy.

    Aftch HD Roller Guide Set
    Aftco Std Roller Top LG
    All-American rollers are a similar size and weight of the Aftco but have the same knot clearance as the WO guides but some people don't like their looks as much.

    Seeker Long Range Stand-Up Tuna - 5'6" 80# S655XXH
    The extra reach of the 6' model may be a better choice if you primarily fish outboard boats or big party boats. You would need to add another roller.


    EVA Tapered Grip
    Flocked Rubber Shrink Tube X Pattern Foregrip


    I'm at approx $250 with the thread and finish products.
     
  6. red34

    red34 Guest

    i'm still waiting to get my pricing, but how do yall feel this rod would match up with an Avet EX30W 2 Spd? I'm thinking Blue reel, all Blue components, and blue/silver marblized wraps...

    i will definately be going with the 6' rod. i was accounting for the addl. length that the unibutt would have added. i should be able to do the aftco HD roller set and add the larger WO stripper guide so that the line comes off the reel correctly as suggested above.

    i'll definately have the guys at mud hole walk me through the components so that they match up correctly the 1st time. thanks for the input. can't wait to get this combo going.
     
  7. thenewkid

    thenewkid Senior Member

    409
    2
    Id Say hell yea, I like the blue rods/ components as i have a blue and black seeker with a blue avet pro 4/0 exw 2spd on it right now. beware there are alot of people who hate blue anything on this board. tred lightly:eek: :D
     
  8. red34

    red34 Guest

    I'm probably going to go with the Aftco Wind-On roller set due to the savings in weight over the HD rollers. If I do a 6' rod, which guide should I add to the set?

    Have any of yall used Perfection Tip reel seats and gimballs? The Cobalt Blue seems to match the Avet reel blue better than the Ice Blue color that Aftco offers. Anyone know if this is true??
     
  9. txseadog

    txseadog Moderator

    675
    5
    The WO rollers are much heavier than the HD ones...

     
  10. Sea Crappie

    Sea Crappie Senior Member

    366
    0
    I agree w/ txseadog on the W/O's for sure. They are much bigger and heavier than the HD rollers. You should only need w/o's if you regularly us traditional heavy leaders (which you won't).

    Another thing, weight really isn't an issue with a setup like this. I would pretty much give up on the idea of weight savings via specific components. There are ways to do an ultralight (relatively) chunk / bottom rod, but it requires planning from the ground up, especially the reel.
     
  11. red34

    red34 Guest

    I agree w/ txseadog on the W/O's for sure. They are much bigger and heavier than the HD rollers. You should only need w/o's if you regularly us traditional heavy leaders (which you won't).

    Another thing, weight really isn't an issue with a setup like this. I would pretty much give up on the idea of weight savings via specific components. There are ways to do an ultralight (relatively) chunk / bottom rod, but it requires planning from the ground up, especially the reel.


    Good to know...guess I got some bad info. will you give me a quick rundown of the ultralight chunking rod?
     
  12. Sea Crappie

    Sea Crappie Senior Member

    366
    0
    Good to know...guess I got some bad info. will you give me a quick rundown of the ultralight chunking rod?

    Sure, the most important area of weight reduction you can address is the reel. A 30W is much bigger than anything you need for chunking in the GoM from a line capacity perspective. You can certainly argue the virtues of a bigger drag area when chunking the Lump but that is a very specialized scenario.

    Some reels I would consider for an ultralight setup are as follows:

    Penn 16VSX 41 oz.
    Shimano Tyrnos 20 39.2 oz.
    Shimano Tiagra 16 37.9 oz.
    Accurate ATD 6 / 12 41 / 42 oz.
    John Baker 6 33 oz.

    These reels are anywhere from 1/2 - 1 lb lighter than the EX30W. They also come with harness lugs in case you prefer to strap in. If you fish primarily from a head boat, you can go with a rail rod, which saves the hassle of getting a properly fitting harness and plate.

    Lets assume you want a rail rod. I would pick the following set-up (or something like it). You can adjust this for a 6ft. hybrid stand-up / rail rod.

    Blank: Calstar Grafighter 7465M, if you plan on routinely fishing more than 30lbs of drag, go with the "H" model. 30lbs is not needed for chunking but if you want to do real serious bottom fishing around rigs, it's nearly a necessity.

    Guides: Fuji HNSG, wrap the rod in a "simple spiral" . This is no more difficult to do on your first rod, and it has MUCH better performance characteristics than a conventionally wrapped rod. NOTE: If you do this, you will have to use Loop-2-Loop wind ons in order to clear the ring guides. This is the best way to do wind-ons IMO, so you're not losing much.

    Front grip: One of the rail rod grips I identified earlier

    Rear grip: EVA if you're just nuts about weight reduction. Hypalon if not.

    Reel seat: Fuji DPSH22. This MIGHT only save an oz over a aluminum seat, but I like the Fuji seats better, even though I've built many rods w/ the Aftco seats. I was reading the other day, where Fuji took one of their saltwater spinning reel seats and mounted a Penn 80W to it. They pulled until failure occured............. the reel's foot pulled off the frame.

    Gimbal: Whatever makes you happy, though with a true rail rod, you don't even need one.

    You can go even lighter on the blank with something like a GUSA Dragon, CTS Shortstroker, or one of the ultra strong jigging blanks (nothing saying you can't chunk w/ em).

    In order of importance for weight reduction I'd go:

    Reel
    Blank
    Guides
    Seat
    Grip Material
    Other