Braid to Mono Knot - Yuck

Discussion in 'Tackle and Rigging' started by Eastern Tackle, Aug 11, 2008.

  1. Eastern Tackle

    Eastern Tackle Senior Member

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    Over the weekend I started my day with a hollow core wind-on on my rod ready to go. IMO there is no comparison to that and ANY kind of knot, whether it be the P.R. or whatever. Attach the windon to the PE with a mini bimini in the PE.

    About half way through the day, I lost my windon due to and AJ tangle. I quickly rigged back up with a slim beauty that held fine, but it just wasn't the same. I didn't like the sound of knots coming through the guides. You don't notice how loud that is, until you have spent the day using the windon, then have to switch to a knot. Its very unnerving.

    From now on, only hollow core wind-ons for me. Period. I'll be more prepared with more than one next time. I had enough confidence it, that I only brought one, not taking into account the possibility of the AJ love fest.

    IMO - F..... all the braid to mono knots. They break, they are hard to tie in some cases, and are just not streamlined enough for my taste.

    I know that not everyone can serve a windon, but trust me when I say that its easier than a P.R. knot, and stronger. It's a skill worth learning if you don't know it.

    --------------------

    For those that DO know how to do windons, I made my spectra loop about the size of nickel. The overall 130lb hollow spectra about 6' in length and put the 100lb jinkai inside about 20". I will probably shorten the overall length to about 3- 4' going forward. I used white JB, but colored it black with a sharpie.
     
  2. xs_tackle

    xs_tackle Senior Member

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    . . . Attach the windon to the PE with a mini bimini in the PE.

    . . . I made my spectra loop about the size of nickel. . . .


    Good point. I really don't like the sound of a knot running thru the eyes of my rod.

    a few thoughts. If you'd like to reduce the knot noise even further, splice a piece (6' to however-long-you-like) of hollow spectra onto the end of the solid spectra (PE) and pull a loop into the end of the hollow spectra. Then you're ready for a strong, quiet, and convenient loop-to-loop connection from the hollow spectra to your topshot.

    The PE-to-hollow spectra connection can be as simple as
    --(1) tie a loose overhand knot in the PE about 5-6 ft above the end of the PE;
    --(2) insert about 5-6 ft of the PE into the hollow spectra (easily done by inserting a 3' doubled length of 27-41# single strand wire into the spectra and working it out the end of the hollow spectra; then, use the wire to pull the PE into the hollow spectra and leave it buried there);
    --(3) gently move the loose overhand knot in the PE down onto the first cm of hollow spectra containing the PE and pull tight; and,
    --(4) apply a drop of Bondini nail cement (cheap) or Jerry Brown 2-part cement (expen$ive) and let dry for a minute. If you wanna serve, do it; if not, leave it.

    The single overhand knot cuts the combined strength of both lines by about .5 (but so what?) and the overhand knot is way smaller than any Bimini twist/Australian Plait/whathaveyou.

    No need to make the loop as small as a nickel. A loop 6"-8" on a side works fine and allows greater ease in changing out topshots.

    Good luck
     

  3. Eastern Tackle

    Eastern Tackle Senior Member

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    Thats an interesting concept.

    My two part epoxy had dried up. And I had just opened a new one. $25 out the window. So I just used some rod building urethane I had laying around and that was fine.

    If I understand, you suggest a hollow core loop on the end of the PE, to a hollow core loop on the beginning of the mono leader for a loop to loop connection.
     
  4. xs_tackle

    xs_tackle Senior Member

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    Thats an interesting concept.

    If I understand, you suggest a hollow core loop on the end of the PE, to a hollow core loop on the beginning of the mono leader for a loop to loop connection.

    That's it. Or, instead of L2L connecting hollow spectra to topshot, some guys insert the mono directly into the hollow core (3-6 ft) and (Sato) crimping or serving and then gluing the last 0.5 inches of the hollowcore over the mono. If you do this way, and depending on the diff between PE and mono diameters, you may need to splice a section of 80# hollow core or a section of 80# and then a section of 130# into the 80 to get a fit on larger mono. But this only if you attach directly w/o a L2L connection.

    too much time to rig; too little time to fish.