Best cleaning solution?

Discussion in 'Reel Repair' started by Krncyk, Jun 25, 2012.

  1. Krncyk

    Krncyk Senior Member

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    My JM went over board and Im planning on taking it apart tonight. I was just wondering what kind of solution do I drop the parts in that has been contaminated by salt? I was thinking about soap and water mixed in but wouldnt that leave a residue? I've searched on this site through google with no results. Thanks~
     
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  2. Stryper

    Stryper Senior Member

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    Slight amount of vinegar with fresh water won't hurt
     

  3. Crashmister

    Crashmister Senior Member

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    Regular soap and water is fine just make sure everything is dry before you grease, oil and reassemble. And yeah vinegar is good to.
     
  4. Kim

    Kim Senior Member Supporting Member

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    Plain old soap and water with a good rinse is hard to beat.
     
  5. lordhell

    lordhell Moderator

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    Clean it up as mentioned above and then spray Corrosion X HD on the parts.. re-grease the gears with marine grease like yamaha blue engine grease, and regrease drags with cal's grease. Spray black magic spray on line to protect against salt and drying out/fraying.
     
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  6. lite-liner

    lite-liner troll enforcement Staff Member

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    a small metal cup of laquer thinner, mineral spirits, MEK, or even brake cleaner works awesome, minimizes any scrubbing (salt/corrosion notwithstanding), & leaves no residue.
     
    docjun likes this.
  7. Bunny

    Bunny Senior Member

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    Salt-X will work well for this application. It has a website you can google.
     
  8. landlocked

    landlocked Senior Member

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    not saying you have to do this, but if i had a reel that went overboard i'd pull the bearing shields and use pressurized carb cleaner and compressed air to completely clean everything including all the old grease and oil, then relube. if you aren't careful doing this you could ruin the bearings while pulling the shields + void any warranty you may have so it may be better to just use soapy water but i'd still use compressed air and then dry under air flow (fan or a/c unit) to thoroughly dry everything or tiny droplets of water could remain inside the bearings. this should help if you really want to dive in:

    bearings
     
  9. DenisB

    DenisB Senior Member

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    MEK or degreaser to clean the stripped parts .
    The approach to bearings depends on how deep the reel went underwater.
    If it only went a couple of feet or less ( & I mean a couple of feet only) you can take a punt that water will not have penetrated inside the shields beyond the edge of the shield & cleaning the exterior of the bearings with tissue & carefully using a tissue to soak up any water between the ID of the shield & the bearing centre can save the day..............IF you have not spun the reel while it was wet.
    If the reel was submerged more than a couple of feet you need to strip everything including bearings & regrease.
    If you have spun the reel while it was wet , all bets are off , you have likely emulsified water into the grease & corrosion over time will result if you do not clean everything & re-grease or replace the bearings.
     
  10. DenisB

    DenisB Senior Member

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    BTW
    if you are worried about getting all the tiny droplets of water out of items with complicated shapes .
    after cleaning you can soak them in alcohol ( DNA/methylated spirits) it will absorb any remaining water . Flush with more clean alcohol & then blow dry etc.

    you can use alcohol to remove water from a fuel tank ( boat or car) too...........that gets water into it.
     
  11. Krncyk

    Krncyk Senior Member

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    Thanks for all the input! I'm actually in the middle of taking everything apart right now. Just went out and got some CRC carb cleaner and duster and yamaha blue grease. Quick question though alan mentions he puts that grease in all the bearings besides the SPOOL bearing he puts corrosion x. Ive looked everywhere to clarify this bearing but Im getting confused on which one it is. The ones that are on the shaft that are on either side of the spool? If so why does he say he packs the bearings on the shaft with grease? The schematics of the reel does not list a spool bearing. One of the screws on the bottom of the reel that holds the plate to clamp onto the rod got stripped. The screw was corroded so I sprayed some WD-40 on it then tried to take it off with the allen ranch and it ended up getting stripped. The best method to solve this problem would be?
     
  12. a1flyfishr

    a1flyfishr Retired Member Supporting Member

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    Thanks for all the input! I'm actually in the middle of taking everything apart right now. Just went out and got some CRC carb cleaner and duster and yamaha blue grease. Quick question though alan mentions he puts that grease in all the bearings besides the SPOOL bearing he puts corrosion x. Ive looked everywhere to clarify this bearing but Im getting confused on which one it is. The ones that are on the shaft that are on either side of the spool? If so why does he say he packs the bearings on the shaft with grease? The schematics of the reel does not list a spool bearing. One of the screws on the bottom of the reel that holds the plate to clamp onto the rod got stripped. The screw was corroded so I sprayed some WD-40 on it then tried to take it off with the allen ranch and it ended up getting stripped. The best method to solve this problem would be?

    Hope it's not to late for this link? Jigging Master - JM PE Reel Maintenance-Amberjack Sniper-2010(HD-1080P) - YouTube
     
  13. gilg

    gilg Member

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    " puts that grease in all the bearings besides the SPOOL bearing he puts corrosion x"

    I think that is supposed to be grease in all bearings except the spool bearing,the spool bearings get corrosion x,but now he advocates ts 301 as a better alternative for increased free spool.

    On the screw part, which part of the screw was stripped?The threads or the head?

    If its the head,very carefully file a slot on the head and use a regular flat head screwdriver to remove the screw.
     
  14. AaronD

    AaronD Moderator

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    One of the screws on the bottom of the reel that holds the plate to clamp onto the rod got stripped. The screw was corroded so I sprayed some WD-40 on it then tried to take it off with the allen ranch and it ended up getting stripped. The best method to solve this problem would be?

    you can buy a screw extractor kit from any hardware store..works well and has saved me numerous times

    Shop GRABIT 2"L Extractor at Lowes.com
     
  15. porcha

    porcha Broscientist

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    this thread needs to be stickied -- or at least a thread about proper equipment care 101 after a hard days fishing -- I just purchased my first >$500 combo and hope to make it last a lifetime. I hear spinning reels are more maintenance than conventional

    It sounds like:
    Cleaning Wash desired parts with a gentle soapy water solution - remove all water before continuing
    Protection Corrosion-X or ts301 the spool bearing & the "guts" of the reel
    Drag Care Cal's grease for the drag
    Bearing care Grease all other bearings(not spool bearing) with a marine lube
    Line Care Black magic your line
    Karma Do something in your community to bring karma back your way, if you get a bad juju feeling, don't do it

    I'm sure there is more to add or I'm wrong on some accord, let me know if so
     
  16. ichibahn

    ichibahn ** Pak Lurah **

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    Moved this thread to "DIY Reel Repair" and stickied. Thanks to let us know.......:D
     
  17. johndtuttle

    johndtuttle Senior Member

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    Thanks for all the input! I'm actually in the middle of taking everything apart right now. Just went out and got some CRC carb cleaner and duster and yamaha blue grease. Quick question though alan mentions he puts that grease in all the bearings besides the SPOOL bearing he puts corrosion x. Ive looked everywhere to clarify this bearing but Im getting confused on which one it is. The ones that are on the shaft that are on either side of the spool? If so why does he say he packs the bearings on the shaft with grease? The schematics of the reel does not list a spool bearing.

    I will speak generically about this because I don't have a JM in front of me. Spool bearings support the spool (must be in direct contact with it) whereas the shaft bearings only support the shaft. Essentially they support the shaft when cranking whereas the spool bearings support the spool when the reel is in free spool. They should be the ones on either side of the spool and are in direct contact with it. All others in the reel should not affect free spool and should get max protection.

    If you use the reel only for jigging I would not stress free spool so much unless you commonly battle current and want to get down as fast as possible and would consider using heavier grease for better protection throughout. As above a teflon based drag grease on the drag washers. Using corrosion-x is principally for tuning up the reel for live baiting and casting very light baits but does not last as long or give as much protection.
     
  18. hafnor

    hafnor Senior Member

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    John has right! the other thing why the spool bearing are left OPEN and running light OIL. is that the spool bearings are in the reels least protected area being the spool. this is where all the water soaks splashing water between the spool and the main frame going directly or indirectly into the spool bearings first and hardest. grease is sticky so at first the water did not penetrate but eventually it mixed under the rotation of the bearings ruining them over short time... thats why we use these so called dry lubes wich "dries" more leave a slip hard layer residue even making the bearing get tighter in its clearens and go faster than regular lube which also sticks. (like a protective toothpaste commercial!) but the residue don't last long. the best found today is the tsi301 or the tsi321. wich approx lasts for one year with "regular" usage... depending on user I guess.... before that layer goes bad and needs to be cleaned properly (working with carb cleaner etc) and relubed with tsi301 and so goes the cycle. All the other bearing also needs a relube but may not be for quite a while.... this however have to be done eventually so the sooner the better. it is quite fragile if you REALLY care about your reels and want them to last 20 or more years.

    also a tip is to paint all static walls, gears,clickers, spool sleeve inside your reel with marine grease. Yamalube is a good option. very nice texture! corrosion x is only for spool bearings and maybe a dog (some need light oil to move with low friction ie where grease is to thick slowing it down from the dog engaging the dog bracket) no need to smudge that everywhere.
     
  19. hafnor

    hafnor Senior Member

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    and when you fish you want to be first down! "the first to come down and gets hooked" should always be a competition between friends! (therefore fast spool bearings):cool:
     
  20. Jameel

    Jameel Banned

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    freshwater works good