basic penn rebuild - 113h, 114h, jigmaster

Discussion in 'Reel Repair' started by alantani, Apr 2, 2007.

  1. alantani

    alantani Senior Member

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    here's the short version.....

    1. first, assemble the bridge, main gear, drag washers and all metal washers up to and including the tension spring (#8A) and set this aside. if you grease the drag washers, it will not fall apart.

    [​IMG]

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    2. start with a bare side plate. install the eccentric, the eccentric spring and the eccentric lever (freespool lever).

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    3. there are four bridge screws. two are threaded at just the tip. the clutch springs ride up and down on these. two are threaded the entire length. don't mix them up.

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    insert the four bridge screws.

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    cover two screws with your left index finger, cover two with your left middle finger. the side plate should be oriented so that the free spool lever is closest to the palm of your hand.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0695.JPG

    note that you can now flip over the site plate and play with the guts of the reel without the screws falling out. you do not need to use masking tape anymore.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0696.JPG

    4. flip the side plate over and look at the empty guts. install the clutch springs.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0697.JPG

    install the pinion gear and yoke as a unit.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0698.JPG

    install the eccentric jack.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0699.JPG

    install the bridge/main gear/drag assembly. orient the bridge plate to it's final position just to get your bearings. now rotate the bridge plate 90 degrees counter-clockwise.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0706.JPG

    install the dog.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0707.JPG

    rotate the bridge plate clockwise until it covers three of the bridge screws. now continue to rotate the bridge plate until it covers just half of the last and final bridge screw. push the bridge down firmly against the plastic side plate.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0710.JPG

    see the small gap??????? this is where the dog spring goes. take a deep breath. hold it. now insert the dog spring in through the gap and gently push it down into position with your index finger. be careful not to let it fly off into neverland. ok, it's in. breathe.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0712.JPG

    6. rotate the bridge plate clockwise until it lines up with the bride screws. hear the click?

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0713.JPG

    cinch down each screw. check to see that the freespool lever works. check the anti-reverse mechanism. when the reel is finally assembled

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0714.JPG

    you need to make sure you can get 20#'s of drag. if not,one of the keyed metal washers is probably not seated properly. you have to do this all over again.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0669.JPG
     
  2. alantani

    alantani Senior Member

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    i have a 114 that is in pieces. It is identical, no?

    that should help a ton


    almost....

    here's the dog. now, this is important. note how the point of the dog is not symmetrical. the longer or "sharper" end goes against the ratchet gear for the gear sleeve. see the difference? get it backwards and the handle will go flying back in your hand.

    [​IMG]

    and here's your dog spring. doesn't look like much, does it. i'll tell you, though. i've lost dozens of those other tiny dog springs. never lost one of these!

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    and here's what it looks like just before you close it up. everything else, before and after, is the same.

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  3. alantani

    alantani Senior Member

    453
    4
    there's no reason to be embarassed about owning a jigmaster. it was once considered to be one of the best reels on the market. it can be once again.

    here's a link to the schematic....

    http://www.scottsbt.com/catalog/store/category1.aspx?SID=8&Category_ID=5900&ClearCache=1

    and here is your old friend.

    [​IMG]

    did you ever wonder that this little screw was for? back out this take apart thumb screw (key #42), lift the screw up slightly, and twist the entire right side plate counterclockwise. it comes right off!

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    you now have three pieces.

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    let's grease the left side plate screws (key #32 and 39). back out each one, one at a time, grease the screw hole and zip the screw back in.

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    apply grease to the click tongue (key #35) and click spring (key #62). add corrosion x to the left side bushing (key #40).

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    back out each one of the right side plate screws (key #31 and 38), one at a time, grease the screw holes, and zip the screws back in.

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    grease the inside of the left side ring and wipe off the excess.

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    re-install the spool and set the assembly aside.

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    now for the right side plate assembly.

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    remove the handle lock screw (key #23a), the handle screw (key #23), the handle (key #24) and the star drag wheel (key #10).

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    back out the four bridge screws (key #16 and 17) but leave them in place!!!!!!

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0493.JPG

    the bridge assembly is now loose underneath. imagine your hand is a small crane. lift the right side plate (key #1) straight up, move it straight over to a safe place, and set it straight down without tipping it over. resist the temtation to look underneath. for now....

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0494.JPG

    carefully line up all the components of the drag stack and bridge assembly.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0495.JPG

    ok, now it's decision time. on the right, you see a brand new stock brass gear sleeve ($6). on the left is a brand new pete kolekar stainless steel gear sleeve ($15). in the middle is the original stock brass gear sleeve and it's trashed! i only recommend a stainless steel gear sleeve if you INTEND to exceed 8 pounds of drag.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0496.JPG

    here's how the trashed gear sleeve fits in the handle. you can see how much play it has.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0497.JPG

    here's the new brass gear sleeve. not to bad, but there's still a little play.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0498.JPG

    here's the stainless steel gear sleeve.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0499.JPG

    using a small punch, remove the brass retaining pin.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0500.JPG

    pull the old gear sleeve, clean up the the bridge and lube it up with corrosion x.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0501.JPG

    install the new gear sleeve and retaining pin.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0502.JPG

    done.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0503.JPG

    i like to replace the fiber washer (key #4) with the drag washer from the black side plate penn 4/0 senator 113. this drag washer (part #6-113) has the same inner and outer dimensions as the long beach washer (part #6-60), but it's thicker. i use this washer under the gears of many reels using the jigmaster gear sleeve (part #98-60).

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0504.JPG

    grease up the rest of the drag washers and install them with the metal washers. make sure the metal washers are alternating "slotted - keyed - slotted."

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0505.JPG

    because the #6-113 drag washer under the gear is thicker than the stock fiber washer (key #4), i usually discard the tension spring (key #8).

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0506.JPG

    now, your side plate is still sitting there, quiet and undisturbed.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0507.JPG

    cover the bridge screws with your left index and middle fingers so the screws do not fall out.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0508.JPG

    ok, NOW you can look at the guts of the side plate.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0509.JPG

    remove the pinion gear (key #13), lube the right side bushing (key #26) with corrosion x, and put the pinion gear back.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0510.JPG

    the bridge/main gear assembly goes straight in. no muss, no fuss. pinch everything together, zip down the four bridge screws and you're done!!!!!!!!!!!

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0511.JPG

    did you say something?

    huh? what was that? what accident? what do you mean, you had a little accident? how many pieces?

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0512.JPG

    ok, look, it's not that bad. first, let's line everything up. see, that looks better already!

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0513.JPG

    first is the eccentric (key #19) and eccentric spring (key #20).

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0514.JPG

    grease it up a little and stick it back in the hole.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0515.JPG

    stick the eccentric lever (key #21) back on....

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0516.JPG

    and bolt it down with the eccentric screw (key #22).

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0517.JPG

    stick a screwdriver blade under the spring to lift it up a little, then grab it with the needle nose pliers.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0518.JPG

    crank the tip of the spring HARD and stick it into the slot of the side plate. the lever should now snap back and forth sharply.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0519.JPG

    now for the bridge screws (key #16 and 17). note that two are threaded all the way up and down, and two are threaded only at the end. the clutch springs (key #18) ride up and down on the bridge screws with the short threads.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0520.JPG

    short threads on top, long threads on bottom.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0521.JPG

    two fingers over the bridge screws, flip over the side plate and install the clutch springs (key #18). oh, and lube the right side plat bushing (key #26) if you haven't already.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0522.JPG

    install the pinion yoke (key #12) and the pinion gear (key #13) as a unit.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0523.JPG

    shimmy the eccentric jack into position. you may need needle nose pliers to snap it into position.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0524.JPG

    make sure the dog (key #15) and dog spring (key #14) are in proper position.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0525.JPG

    snap it together.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0526.JPG

    bolt it down. take a moment now to make sure the free spool lever and anti-reverse mechanism work.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0527.JPG

    install the spacing sleeve (key #9).

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0528.JPG

    install the star drag wheel (key #10) and screw it down as far as it will go. don't skip this step.

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0529.JPG

    install the handle (key #24) and handle screw (key #23). turn the handle screw down until it seats, the crank it around HARD until the handle screw has rotated one or two slots and line up the slot with hole for the handle lock screw. now install the handle lock screw (key #23a).

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0530.JPG

    line up the side plate with the left side plate ring, push the side plate down, then turn it clockwise until the take apart thumb screw "clicks." turn the screw down and you're done! congratulations.!

    http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0531.JPG

    see, that wasn't so bad......
     
  4. alantani

    alantani Senior Member

    453
    4
    i went to smoothdrag.com and pulled off a drawing done by dawn herself. here's the drawing....

    [​IMG]
     
  5. feeder

    feeder Senior Member

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    Thanks Alan. Yet another great tutorial to save the less mechanically inclined (i.e. me) from themselves :D
     
  6. jimbedro

    jimbedro Guest

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    Could you please tell me the difference between a 114H and a 114HL? I can't find a reference to the 114HL on th Penn website.
     
  7. alantani

    alantani Senior Member

    453
    4
    side plates are basically the same. some have chrome over brass spools, some have aluminum, don't know beyond that, but the side plates are the same. alan
     
  8. bulllred

    bulllred Senior Member

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    Thanks alantani.
     
  9. Dorymate2530

    Dorymate2530 Junior member

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    Could you please tell me the difference between a 114H and a 114HL? I can't find a reference to the 114HL on th Penn website.

    I don't know if this was discussed before but the L means light and refers to the aluminuim spool that Alan observed and I believe this is the only difference.

    Nice Post!!!!
     
  10. fishr1989

    fishr1989 Senior Member

    642
    17
    what's the max drag on the jigmaster, and does smooth drag sell a full set of washers for it?
     
  11. Lumberjack93

    Lumberjack93 Member

    47
    4
    I don't know if this was discussed before but the L means light and refers to the aluminuim spool that Alan observed and I believe this is the only difference.

    Nice Post!!!!

    Here is a little information about the Penn 114HL 6/0

    I own this reel and it's a beast. Mine has an aluminium reel frame on the bottom. It's made of solid aluminium. I was talking to a guy at Penn one time and he told me to hang onto this reel. Penn made this reel for a very short time due to the expense of the reel.

    I'll take some pics of mine and post it on here. I was told that the true HL's are somewhat rare.

    LJ93
     
  12. Dorymate2530

    Dorymate2530 Junior member

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    I have two 114HL senators and you're right they are good reels. Mine have aluminum frames front and rear but they are not tied into the reel seat. The two I have also have aluminum spools but the reel seat is not aluminum. Sounds like you have a rare reel there and would love to see pictures of it.
     
  13. alantani

    alantani Senior Member

    453
    4
    what's the max drag on the jigmaster, and does smooth drag sell a full set of washers for it?

    max drag attainable on these three drag systems should be about 15 pounds. reels in this class include the penn jigmaster, 3/0 senator, long beach 60, 7 series internationals, and all of the smaller newells.

    Pricing Information, SMOoOTH DRAG *** Can Stop Anything *** Toll Free: 888-206-4656 does have a drag set for the jigmaster. go with carbontex, not the black or green smoothies, or stick with carbon fiber penn ht-100's.
     
  14. jake4321

    jake4321 Junior member

    2
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    This thread has been very helpful, thank You So Much!

    This is my brothers Penn 114H Special Senator Series. He took it apart to remove line that had wedged in there, he could not put it back together.

    I'm almost there, see picture how does this gear come off of the spindle?

    Mine seems to be frozen?
     

    Attached Files:

  15. alantani

    alantani Senior Member

    453
    4
    ok, this pinion gear is $10, figure $15-20 when you figure in tax, shipping and your time, so let's be really careful with it.

    you need two big flat screwdrivers. place the blades of the screwdrivers underneath the pinion gear. they should be opposite each other. now CAREFULLY twist both handles clockwise, gentle, to give an even lift to both sides of the pinion gear. that should force it up. then polish the spool shaft and carefully drill out the pinion gear just a little to remove the excess rust. be very careful here as well.

    remember, if you ding one of the teeth in the least little bit, it will echo throughout the reel everytime you crank the handle. good luck and please let us know how you do. alan
     
  16. jake4321

    jake4321 Junior member

    2
    0
    ok, this pinion gear is $10, figure $15-20 when you figure in tax, shipping and your time, so let's be really careful with it.

    you need two big flat screwdrivers. place the blades of the screwdrivers underneath the pinion gear. they should be opposite each other. now CAREFULLY twist both handles clockwise, gentle, to give an even lift to both sides of the pinion gear. that should force it up. then polish the spool shaft and carefully drill out the pinion gear just a little to remove the excess rust. be very careful here as well.

    remember, if you ding one of the teeth in the least little bit, it will echo throughout the reel everytime you crank the handle. good luck and please let us know how you do. alan
    The Pinion Gear came off fine, Thank You. I'm really gaining knowledge in the assembly of this unit.

    Just one note this reel has only been used 3 times, therefore the pinion gear shaft does not have any rust so no drilling out was performed. And I did only a light polish of the spool shaft (maybe I could have been more aggressive?) I'm not sure how tight the pinion gear to the shaft should be, but mine was pretty tight when I did a test fit. When I put the side plate back on there is a gap (~1/16 ") from the spool to the inside side plate. I'm thinking that the spool shaft is not fully seated to the pinion gear? The side plate screws are screwed down fully, hand torqued.

    After putting things back together, the reel feels like it is stuck in drag mode (does not toggle between drag and free spool modes) and the drag will not tighten very well?

    Also note, component wise I feel that the bridge/main gear/drag assembly is installed in the proper order.
     
  17. alantani

    alantani Senior Member

    453
    4
    jake, the pinion gear should spin freely on the spool shaft. is there any possibility that the spool shaft is bent? this business about not being able to get the reel in and out of gear likely means that the pinion gear is not sliding back and forth on the spool shaft freely. sorry about getting back to you so late, but any progress? alan