Backing...

Discussion in 'Tackle and Rigging' started by Fish'nFool, Mar 27, 2009.

  1. Fish'nFool

    Fish'nFool Member

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    Just received my Stella 8k FA and can I just say it's the finest reel that I have ever laid my hands on and I cannot wait to use it!

    Anyway, I picked up a 330 yd spool of 55lb Diawa Boat Braid, which I hear fills up the 8k spool nicely. How many yards of backing should I put on without running the risk of putting on to little or to much and should I use a 55lb mono backing?
     
  2. Sea Crappie

    Sea Crappie Senior Member

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    You don't need any backing to fill the spool (as long as that's PE 4 line). Also, to prevent spool slippage, a piece of tape on the spool is all you need. I don't use mono backing and have never had a problem.
     

  3. papio

    papio Senior Member

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    No need for mono backing. I use Flexx-Rap or Self Grip (adhering tape) use minimum to cover spool.
     
  4. Fish'nFool

    Fish'nFool Member

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    Thanks for the replies!

    Great post from basil, thanks Bret. I always thought backing was mandatory when spooling up a reel with braid and most tackle shops I talk to always tell me the same thing. Relatively new technology runs into old school thinking I guess.

    I had green powerpro slip under pressure after I spooled it on my Penn GT reel so I had to take it all off (400+ yds) and ended up putting it back on with a mono backing. Based on Basil's post I am thinking it was a result of not wrapping it tight enough so it could get a good bite when I initially started - oh well.
     
  5. pametfisher

    pametfisher Senior Member

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    Thanks for the replies!

    Great post from basil, thanks Bret. I always thought backing was mandatory when spooling up a reel with braid and most tackle shops I talk to always tell me the same thing. Relatively new technology runs into old school thinking I guess.

    I had green powerpro slip under pressure after I spooled it on my Penn GT reel so I had to take it all off (400+ yds) and ended up putting it back on with a mono backing. Based on Basil's post I am thinking it was a result of not wrapping it tight enough so it could get a good bite when I initially started - oh well.

    I just sent two Stella 20K FA spools to Basil for loading with 60/80# JB hollow. I took a few yards of 80# hollow, wound it 4 times around the spool backwards to the normal direction, and tied the tag end with a 7 turn Uni. The Uni was pulled down VERY tightly and a one inch tag was left. Then I wound 20 turns on VERY tightly--all of the preceeding done according to the JB instruction which Basil posted, with the tag of the Uni knot laid across the spool.

    To test and see if it would slip, I put an end loop into this stub of connecting line and lifted 70 pounds of dead weight from the floor. The connection to the spool will never slip. It is extremely solid. All as Jerry Brown predicted. No tape was needed.

    Basil then spliced the 60# hollow to my 80# stub and filled the spools with 8 lbs. or so of drag pressure. (He could have knotted the line to the spool too and I would completely trust him. But I didn't want to ask him to do the load testing which, being a skeptic, was important to me.)
     
  6. Fish'nFool

    Fish'nFool Member

    46
    0
    I just sent two Stella 20K FA spools to Basil for loading with 60/80# JB hollow. I took a few yards of 80# hollow, wound it 4 times around the spool backwards to the normal direction, and tied the tag end with a 7 turn Uni. The Uni was pulled down VERY tightly and a one inch tag was left. Then I wound 20 turns on VERY tightly--all of the preceeding done according to the JB instruction which Basil posted, with the tag of the Uni knot laid across the spool.

    To test and see if it would slip, I put an end loop into this stub of connecting line and lifted 70 pounds of dead weight from the floor. The connection to the spool will never slip. It is extremely solid. All as Jerry Brown predicted. No tape was needed.

    Basil then spliced the 60# hollow to my 80# stub and filled the spools with 8 lbs. or so of drag pressure. (He could have knotted the line to the spool too and I would completely trust him. But I didn't want to ask him to do the load testing which, being a skeptic, was important to me.)

    So you loaded the spools with backing before sending them to Basil? I suppose the JB instructions will work fine for all braids. I've never used JB, but have heard nothing but good things. Curious, some lines have a pretty slick coating, is JB anymore prone to slipping then any other braid?

    I will try to track down Basils post with the instructions. Thanks
     
  7. pametfisher

    pametfisher Senior Member

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    So you loaded the spools with backing before sending them to Basil? I suppose the JB instructions will work fine for all braids. I've never used JB, but have heard nothing but good things. Curious, some lines have a pretty slick coating, is JB anymore prone to slipping then any other braid?

    I will try to track down Basils post with the instructions. Thanks

    Here's the post that has some spooling comments from me and instructions from Basil's site. http://www.360tuna.com/forum/f3/spooling-minimum-line-twist-spinning-reels-4657/

    I didn't ship it with backing, just I wanted to tie my own knot to the spool. Then Basil did a hollow core line-to-line splice and added the line.

    JB is not more or less prone to slipping. I believe that his white line is pure spectra fiber, no coating.