Anyone have a graphite reel seat fail when jigging?

Discussion in 'Jigging and Popping' started by Bellyups, Aug 15, 2009.

  1. Bellyups

    Bellyups Senior Member

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    Has anyone had one fail? I am trying to decide on a Fuji graphite (which one is recommended? DPSD? DPSM?) versus an Alps aluminum. The aluminum looks great, but is the same weight assuming the same amount of epoxy is used to glue the reelseat. The rod will be a 8 foot GUSA Wahoo for slow up down jigging.
     
  2. txseadog

    txseadog Moderator

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    Has anyone had one fail? I am trying to decide on a Fuji graphite (which one is recommended? DPSD? DPSM?) versus an Alps aluminum. The aluminum looks great, but is the same weight assuming the same amount of epoxy is used to glue the reelseat. The rod will be a 8 foot GUSA Wahoo for slow up down jigging.


    Not sure if it's just Fuji's marketing to get people to spend the extra $5 on the deluxe DPSD but it is suppose to be a little stronger than the DPSM. I suspect either one would be strong enough to handle anything you're going to throw at them as long as you don't over-tighten the hood. The only Fuji seat that I've had fail was when I over-tighten a DPSH at home.

    Someone once told me that they had seen some test results where the feet of a International 80 failed (bent) before the Fuji seat did.
     

  3. Bellyups

    Bellyups Senior Member

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    Thanks Kevin. I have been shocked at how durable the fuji graphite reel seats seem to be.
     
  4. gman

    gman Senior Member

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    all I jig with is graphite reel seats, never had one fail
     
  5. north coast

    north coast Senior Member

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    I've seen a couple break,I've had 1 break,but that was many years ago. I think they've come a long way since then.
     
  6. SeaWolf

    SeaWolf Junior member

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    get a fuji dpsh h/d graphite reel seat. thicker hoods. the standard dpsm reel seats can have the rear hoods pop out of the channel if overtightened. that being said, i haven't had one fail.
     
  7. jig

    jig Senior Member

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    ...as long as you don't over-tighten the hood. The only Fuji seat that I've had fail was when I over-tighten a DPSH at home.



    Same thing here. But it bothered me so much I don't get them anymore. I like to tighten as tight as I can, and the fact that that may crack them rules them out for me. If it can be broken, I will break it.

    Just to clarify above, it was the DPSH that failed (graphite hoods). So now I use rods with the graphite reel seats with the metal hoods, like the DPSM, without any failures.
     
  8. peterk814

    peterk814 Senior Member

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    graphite is fine..again some people breakthem overtightening. I tighten them hard andhavent had one fail, so seems to me likeits user error.
     
  9. Eastern Tackle

    Eastern Tackle Senior Member

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    Graphite is just fine. Plus you don't have to worry about the effects of disimilar metal touching. I know one custom builders of saltwater flyrods (big ones for sails etc.) that will only use graphite.
     
  10. MrBill

    MrBill Senior Member

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    graphite is fine..again some people breakthem overtightening. I tighten them hard andhavent had one fail, so seems to me likeits user error.

    Peter,
    You don't tighten enough.:)

    I guess I'm not normal. Plastic reelseats are the norm on most rods today. I think they work fine for 97% of fisherman. I'm one of the 3% that has built in vise grips.:D I've cracked or broken the plastic on many while tightening them down on the reel.:mad: When I have a custom made rod, I now go with the ALPS in a heartbeat. I used to use the aftco, but I like the ALPS better.

    I always take my reels off the reelseat after every trip. I put on corrosion X and then lightly replace the reel. Before hitting the water, I clamp them down.
     
  11. peterk814

    peterk814 Senior Member

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    Ahah i knew that was coming mr bill. I really did.

    The metal seats are too bulky for me, its not even necessarily the weight.

    Also when your using a clamp (which i dont use) it will hold thereel just fine
     
  12. Bellyups

    Bellyups Senior Member

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    Well, it will be my size 20 Alps or a size 20 SPSM.

    Does anyone have complaints of reel wobble with the graphite seat?
     
  13. txseadog

    txseadog Moderator

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    Well, it will be my size 20 Alps or a size 20 SPSM.

    Does anyone have complaints of reel wobble with the graphite seat?

    IMO, there seems to be less wobble with graphite seats as the plastic in the hoods seem to grip the reel feet better than metal seats unless you use a lot of torque to tighten the nuts.
     
  14. SeaWolf

    SeaWolf Junior member

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    bellyups - you better check the size of the reel you are putting into a reel seat before settling on a size 20. some reels dont fit in size 22's, nevermind size 20's.

    graphite reel seats do have their downfalls. there has been some talk on liking the fuji dpms-type. do me a favor, put a reel in that seat and tighten it down. now, grab the base of the reel and the foregrip tightly. now, let me know how far you can torque the reel to either side of the reel seat. it's nothing to turn it 45 degrees. you won't do that on a aluminum reel seat.

    going back to the "aluminum hoods" of the dpsm reel seat, have you ever taken one apart? it's a piece of aluminum not much thicker than heavy aluminum foil. i've seen them break too. it's essentially decoration to allow for annodized colored hoods. the full aluminum hoods (fpsd) on the graphite bodied reel seats start at size 28. that's a big reel seat. the dpsm, dpsh, and dpsd all have the same attachment of the rear locking hood. the dpsh just has heavier duty hoods that do not have a "aluminum finish" over the graphite hood.

    depending the model aluminum seat you buy, some seem to "bite" into the foot of the reel better than others. that biting may scar the annodized reel feet.

    the debate on graphite vs aluminum reel seats depends on a lot of factors. mainly, the class of fish you are after, but personal preference comes into play a lot. aluminum is stronger, but heavier and may corrode over time. graphite is lighter and wont corrode (except certain hoods), but can break easier depending on usage.

    i have yet to have a customer return a rod due to a broken graphite reel seat.
     
  15. workin

    workin Member

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    Hey,

    Scott, I switched to graphite on that Tuna Max I built a couple years ago. I put one on the GUSA Wahoo as well. I ain't managed to break one yet, and my clumsy ass could break water. Size wise, the 22 is a tight fit on my 950's, so I went up to a 24 last build. No complaints.

    F
     
  16. Bellyups

    Bellyups Senior Member

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    Wow, this has turned into a great thread. Thanks everyone.

    I have an ALPs 20 that fits my saltiga very well. Alps tighten down very well and look great. I ordered a DPSM in size 20 that I will surely check the fit on the saltiga 50. I will choose one of these depending on how I feel. I will mostly use the rod for YFT jigging and grouper jigging, initially with a saltiga 50, but I may add a OJ 5000 P and target more AJs.

    I had only heard great reports on the graphite reelseats, but I have always used aluminum. The graphite is cheaper and lighter, so I am thinking of giving them a try.
     
  17. ksong

    ksong SPONSOR

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    I tried alluminum reel seats for jigging rods, but I favor graphite reel seats for some reasoms though the weight difference between two are not significant.
     
  18. Billy 40

    Billy 40 Senior Member

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    The DPSM is molded with no aluminum reinforcement. Many people inFlorida who used them forlocal Offshore fishing split the hood when overtightening them withlarger sized reels. Hence, Fuji came out with the BPS seats,which have really thick aluminum ringsin teh graphite hood, which are supposed topreventthem from splitting when overtightening.

    As far asthe aluminum being easy to tear apart - BS. It's the strongest part of teh seat by far. Be careful when using clamps, as teh arbor material you use willcome into play if you overtighten. A lot ofrodsskimp onarbor material, and allows you to pretty easily crush the center of the seat if you overtighten a clamp.
     
  19. Bellyups

    Bellyups Senior Member

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    Billy, I did't think about smashing the tube with the reelclamp. Thanks for the warning.
     
  20. d-a

    d-a Senior Member

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    Billy, I did't think about smashing the tube with the reelclamp. Thanks for the warning.

    The flexcoat arbors will help against the crushing of the tube.

    d-a