Anyone do there own nonskid??

Discussion in 'Everything Else' started by jiggawhat, Jan 20, 2015.

  1. jiggawhat

    jiggawhat Senior Member

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    Been thinking of redoing my skiffs floors. They currently have seadek down but its all lifting and stained.i was looking for tips if anyone has done this.the seadek is about 7 years old. Its about $800 to replace. Not trying to be cheap just not sure i wanna deal with seadek. just brainstorming to sea what yall think.so i guess awlgrip and griptex seems to be industry standard so thats what ive been looking at..thanks
     
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  2. Reel Stamas

    Reel Stamas Senior Member

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    I was thinking about getting Sea-Deck on my boat, but I assumed it would weather a little better. My boat hangs in a lift in full sun so I assume I would have problems even sooner than you did...
     
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  3. jiggawhat

    jiggawhat Senior Member

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    Im not the first owner as i got it used.but the guy had it in a dry dock storage place on the river. But he didnt take care of it before putting it away.i think the water was standing towards the bow whereit caused it to lift.
     
  4. CDB

    CDB Member

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    We used to make our own nonskid when I was in the Coast Guard. This was on metal, but it should work on wood or fiberglass. You sand down to bare metal (basically removing the old nonskid). Prime. Let dry. Then prime again. While the primer is wet apply a layer of grit to completely cover the wet paint. Let the paint dry then come back with a shop vac and pick up the excess grit that didn't adhere to the paint. Touch up any bare spots by reapplying paint and grit. Once you have good coverage with the grit, then come back with a thick nap roller and another coat of primer over the grit. Let dry, then topcoat with whatever color deck pain you want. Another tip is do do the non skid in sections like a grid. Use painters tape to mark off the sections. This way if you have a bad spot you just have to redo one grid block instead of the entire deck. Depending on the surface profile you want you can use sand, blasting grit or old fashioned cat litter as your grit.
     
  5. flyguy

    flyguy Senior Member

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    I used to do gel coat work at a boat dealership. Never did a whole deck, but did patch holes in nonskid all the time. The method is similar to what CDB said. I'd mix up a batch of gel coat with a little silica dust to thicken it up. Be sure to mix well and when you think it's mixed, mix it again. You don't want clumps of silica dust. I'd rough up the area, clean with acetone, then spread out the gel coat and either texture it with by dabbing with a sponge or if the area were big enough, would roll with a thick nap roller. If the peaks are too high/sharp once it cures, then go over super lightly with 600 grit wet to knock down the points.
     
  6. DenisB

    DenisB Senior Member

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    Have experience with non-skid decks from 100- ft boats to little skiffs

    The most durable is 2-pack resin with a grit additive ( hand spread copper slag/sand etc) then topcoated with more pigmented resin..................surface sharpness is modified by lightly grinding/sanding the tops off the grit at the end............if its a big boat with large grit..................... unbeatable system where high traffic & high impact are encountered.

    I am not a fan of the acrylic based non-skid paints....................had weathering issues with every one I tried
    Marine enamel based deck paints containing rubber grit/polyurethane grit etc ) were more durable.

    I found that fast curing enamel paving paint with hand spread grit was as good as any of them , more durable than acrylic products & quick & easy to patch if I had deck surface damage from equipment or misadventures ( 20 min drying x 2 coats.).

    FWIW
     
  7. jiggawhat

    jiggawhat Senior Member

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    So is this correct?
    1) sand down existing layer.
    2) repaint
    3) lay down texture
    4) let dry then vacuum up ecxess texture
    5) another coat

    Seems easy enough....
    Awlgrip is what im looking at i hear a quart goes a long way how much do i need?quart or gallon?
    Boat is an beavertail osprey
    Heres a link to my boat i got last year.
    http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1391628107
     
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  8. saqa

    saqa Jonny TooBad

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    Some advice I have read mentions building the non skid into the structure instead of the finish. That way if the finish wears off the non skid will remain. The process was to get a good epoxying surface on the deck, roll on neat epoxy and let it gel. Then roll on some epoxy thickened with structural fillers like microfibres onto the still yet uncured surface and let that gel too. Then roll on with a dry roller which will pull up the gelled epoxy into raised points. This will be a tough structure and wear well. Put some paint on that to protect the epoxy from UV
     
  9. jawz

    jawz Junior member

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    follow the advice i'm giving:

    rough up the existing surface - mask off the other areas you do not want to coat...


    good 2 part primer - you need 2 put down a good 2 part primer first


    awlgrip: that's the product you want - only product I use...griptex,this is the non skid

    roll the deck out in awlgrip - sprinkle with griptex,and let the solvent flash off,then roll it out again...then roll it again...pull the tape and admire the nice job you've done


    enamel deck paints,like "interdeck" - worst product out there ! flat finish,and it's single part - single part paints will not fully kick - you will allways be able to dig a fingernail into it...

    you're got a nice little skiff - don't mess it up using cheap stuff....