I need some help with this, I have seen tons of knots but nothing that shows me how to join 80lb braid to 80lb mono (top shoot 100-150 yds) I also need to know how to tie the jigs onto the line. I will be using Knife, diamond, and butteryfly jigs. I need to know what knot for each line, and i need something close to 100% knot strength, I have heard alot of knots out there and have heard disadvantes to alot of them, as i am in-experienced in these types of knots or even fishing style i could benefit from some old salty dogs out there!
I use straight braid for jigging, and only a very short mono or floro shock leader--no more than 25ft. I use a loop to loop connection for the shock leader to the braid. That makes it very easy to change leader size. You will need to tie a loop in your braid using a bimini twist, and you can buy pre-made wind on leaders for the shock leader. I get mine from: JAK Associates makes Kona Style wind-on leaders and top shots for the serious big game angler If you absolutely must have 100yds of mono topshot, you can use an albright knot to connect the mono to the braid, or you could still use the loop to loop connection above. I also recently ran accross this, but I have personally not used it: Knots for Dummies As fare as attaching your jigs, I use an improved trilene knot. You could also use the ultra dependable polomar knot, but you would have to tie that to a snap swivel, and then attach your jig to the snap part. I personally don't see a problem with using a snap swivel, but others may disagree. Matter of preference.
i normally use 10-20' for jigging and popping shock leader. every guy has their preference. nrmally i start with 15 or 20 and it gets cut down slowly. i like PR knot, but some guys use midknot more. splices and loop to loop are becoming more popular but i havent tried them. you can debate between fluorocarbon and non.....i prefer FC for tuna in case they're leader shy.....but for jigging and popping i dont think its as important as a FC leader is for baitfishing. reason being the lure it moving and not just sitting idle like with bait. anyway this is just my theory....lots of guys do different things and have success with it.
so is the 80 to 80 a good setup for this type of party boat fishing? Or should I have a heavier mono top shoot?
I don't know where you are fishing, I use 80lb in the NE for tuna jigging, and it is usually adequate. Pretty unusual to jig fish with anything much heavier than that due to the small line and drag capacity of lightweight compact jigging reels. Some guys even use 50-65lb.
in the NE i try to have a 50/60 setup and an 80 setup....ive seen tuna get very leader shy. they wont touch anyone with 80 but drop 50 down and get slammed. one trip i only got one 80lb bluefin with 80lb and a 2speed reel.....i grabbed an old 6/0 with straight 50 mono and hook up to a 150-160 bluefin. go figure. down here i havent seen it as much. granted ive fished up there more often so i wont say i dont believe in it down here...just havent seen it as much. but yes 80 and 80 is what i use 95% of the time in the gulf.
Bret, once again we are back to the loop to loop discussion. Wouldn't you rather carry a couple different wind on leaders, than have to have a whole separate rig to drop down leader size?
ive used wind on in the past. theyre ok, but i prefer just to tie my leader to the braid. doesnt take long. but i also have different rigs i can just swap out. i also have 2 spools for every reel. one with 65lb and the other with 80-100lb usually prerigged with varying topshots so changing out is relatively easy.
solved will carry several 25' shock leaders 50 to 80 FC Will look into a bigger spool of this braid though cause i think this saltist should be able to handle almost 500 yards of 80
Bret, once again we are back to the loop to loop discussion. Wouldn't you rather carry a couple different wind on leaders, than have to have a whole separate rig to drop down leader size? lol i know i know...it does make sense.....i do need to try it for myself and see how it works i also need to learn the bimini much better to tie the loop. but thats not as big of a concern.
I learned this knot at the store in Cali. I think they said 80# was about as high as they would go before switching to a loop-to-loop connection. The reason this knot works so well is that the tag end is pretty snug to the line and faces back towards the reel so that when your live sardine swims out or when you cast, the tag will not hang on the guides. Takes a little bit of practice tying and getting it to tighten down snugly, but I can do it on a boat using a light jighead or a pair of forceps to hold the loop. Bob Sands Fishing Tackle
80/80 is good. What Bret said for length.For jigging I Bimini the braid and use the 25 foot premade loop to loops and toss em when they get down to 8 or 9 feet.With braid,your leader needs to be a little longer than what your going to catch. I use floro,but mono is a little easier to tie. Palomar is pretty hard to beat at the hook end. Keep the hardware to a minimum.A pre-rigged spare spool or three is huge,huge huge....much better to be fishing than trying to remember how to tie some obscure knot while tuna are busting all around...
someone was telling my to bimini the braid but im unsure on what to do with the mono and is the bimini supposed to be sinchable (like a noose?) or is my bimini skrewed up?
No, your bimini loop should not move. It should be just a loop in your line, held securely in place by the knot. Here is a pretty good video I just found that shows you how to tie it: YouTube - Bimini Twist by Reefman You will also want to consult some various sources on tying the knot so you understand it thoroughly. If tied properly, it is 100% strength knot. As to the loop in your mono. Unless you are set up to make them yourself. I would just buy them pre-made from Jak Associates (link above in my other post). The Mono needs to have the spectra sleeve over the loop to protect it from being cut by the braid. If you jut make a loop in the mono, your braid will cut it.
Slippage is bad,use more turns until it holds.You can put a drop of glue on it too. There are four or five different glues that are popular.The premade leader will have the length of mono with a loop of spectra already on it and directions with it. Plenty of guys splice their own if you are good at that sort of thing.
Red, Have you used that knot in your post? I have never seen it, but it looks easy to tie, and worth adding to the "bag of tricks" if it is dependable.
The knots being discussed are all excellent strength knots if done well. Here are some thoughts. Loop to Loop: 100% of actual breaking strength of the line: Here's why: The load is carried by two pieces of braid on each side of the loop. If you assume that the strength of each leg is no better than an Overhand knot (it's better) and that your Overhand knot is 50% (checked this too); then the total is 100% (or better). Getting the loop to loop apart is not always easy, but is made easier if you loop multiple times. It doesn't make it stronger (and who needs more than 100% anyway) but it makes it easier to get apart. Bimini: 90-100% of package rating: If you twist 100 times and then make the top wraps you have about 35-40 twists (the twists under the wraps create the friction that holds the knot) under the top wraps of the Bimini. Spectra line is as slippery as Teflon. 35-40 twists under the wraps seems to hold the knot from slipping. Reverse Blind Splice End Loop in hollow core: 100% of actual breaking strength: The friction is spread over the length of the splice, usually 12-24". This is about 20 times the amount of friction potential as a Bimini. Mid/P.R. knots: 90-100% package rating: Key to success is getting the number of turns right (MID); getting the Spectra Half Hitches very tight on the fluoro leader; and pulling up the finished Mid/P.R. with 60% plus of package rating force. (e.g. using 80# braid, final pull to 48# plus). The tight final pull makes the braid sink in and compresses the fluoro leader. Extra spools with pre-made knots and leaders: A good system. No battleground knotting. Sounds a little expensive though. My personal choice: Loop to loop and pre-made leaders.
I learned this knot at the store in Cali. I think they said 80# was about as high as they would go before switching to a loop-to-loop connection. The reason this knot works so well is that the tag end is pretty snug to the line and faces back towards the reel so that when your live sardine swims out or when you cast, the tag will not hang on the guides. Fluoro/Mono tags take a lot of wear if they go out first, so if you don't mind a stop knot tied in the fluoro (they get big in 80#) then the knot seems good. Also consider the Slim Beauty and SIG http://www.360tuna.com/forum/f3/sig-knot-steps-3744/
Sounds a little expensive though. Well...actually,for best results,that spare spool? It should be sitting on top of another reel,attached to another rod,with another lure already tied on......but we are in a "recession" after all.