Conventional 2-piece

[SpecialK]

Will there be any conventional 2 piece rods?
I want to get two different ones to travel with but havent found any I like yet...

[Minnow]

No conventional production rods available.
I will have a limited run for the blanks. You can have some one to build it for you.

[tdwcapt]

I bought a heavy action 2-piece Tsunami conventional rod. I looked for a heavy action 2 piece for a long time before I settled on this stick. They are not easy to find. I would feel better about a 2-piece stick that doesn't come apart at the top of the foregrip. The rod takes a big load at that point. That's why I like the Tsunami. It's a real strong stick. I can lay it on the rail and use it as a lever! Did a 70lb wahoo on it with no problem.

Not trying to threadjack.

[jureal]

Originally Posted by tdwcapt

I bought a heavy action 2-piece Tsunami conventional rod. I looked for a heavy action 2 piece for a long time before I settled on this stick. They are not easy to find. I would feel better about a 2-piece stick that doesn't come apart at the top of the foregrip. The rod takes a big load at that point. That's why I like the Tsunami. It's a real strong stick. I can lay it on the rail and use it as a lever! Did a 70lb wahoo on it with no problem.

Not trying to threadjack.

Not sure that I can agree with you about the placement of the ferrule joint. I would rather have it at the top of the handle than further up towards the tip. The rod is very stiff, heavy and thick walled near the foregrip and is less likely to fail at that point. A mid point ferrule is putting stiffness in the area where the rod is likely to flex the most and is more thin walled. Most Japanese popping rods have the ferrule near the handle for this very reason.

[tdwcapt]

Well, that's a good point. However, anytime I've ever seen a rod break, it's always between the grip and the first or second guide - where the rod is stiffest. Most 2 piece rods have the ferule placed above the first guide somewhere in the blank where there can be flex.

If you watch a rod get bottomed out you'll notice that most of the time they actually bend through the grip where the rod is least flexible. JMHO but I don't want a ferule in the least flexible part of the rod.

Just an observation.

[jureal]

Originally Posted by tdwcapt

Well, that's a good point. However, anytime I've ever seen a rod break, it's always between the grip and the first or second guide - where the rod is stiffest. Most 2 piece rods have the ferule placed above the first guide somewhere in the blank where there can be flex.

If you watch a rod get bottomed out you'll notice that most of the time they actually bend through the grip where the rod is least flexible. JMHO but I don't want a ferule in the least flexible part of the rod.

Just an observation.

I suppose that would depend greatly upon the way that the blank is structured. I have four rods with unibutts and the ferrules on those are just above the reelseat and I am positive that there is near zero flex in that particular area. The walls of the blank are extremely thick at that part and I don't think that area will ever break. This is of course at the extreme case of a heavy duty blank. I've seen these blanks break but it has always been in the upper half of the rod.

On one of my recent builds, a Smith WRC80/35p , I noticed that the female portion of the ferrule was heavily builtup. In fact, the o.d. of the ferrule was greater than the o.d. of the butt end and I actually had to insert my reel seat from the butt end otherwise it would not fit through. In any event, I wrapped the female ferrule with thread and finished it with epoxy prior to installing my fore grip for extra protection. I would assume that these OTI blanks are built in the same manner.

[tdwcapt]

I'd sure like to take a look at them anyways. I hope they have some at FTU.