Casting Distance/Popper Rigging - Page 3

stickbom · 08-15-2007, 04:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sportfisherman

Hi Mike ,

In 2003 we had 3 Thai anglers all armed with OCEA GT 86HH fishing Komodo , I had Carpenter LR86 then and they found the OCEA GT 86HH has no back bone when compared to Carpenter LR86 , the bend extended from the foregrip and the rod was " saturated " under load by big GT circling underneath the boat . In 2004 these guys came back , all of them have WV80XHs and the OCEA GT 86HH became their spare outfit or not brought at all .

OCEA GT 86HH is an easy casting rod for novices but in the hand of an expert like you , I think it's hard to beat LR86 which is now revamped to LR88 while the LR89LDC is now LR90-ICBM . Haven't tried these 2 rods yet but I am sure I will do so soon , once the supply of Carpenter rods start to flow again .

Jon .

Jon, I saw the DVD of those kids fishing with you. To be honest, I think they probably failed to land anything big due to lack of experience and physical strength. In the show, one guy couldn't even lift his rod off the bow rails (and in the process broke his reel's bail arm) so how could it be that the Ocea GT was "saturated"? Sorry if I'm not talking about the same group of Thai anglers because the ones I saw couldn't even maximise the potential of their gear! If there's anything that was saturated during that trip, it was the anglers

In any case, I'm not trying to put anyone down with my comments about the Thai chaps. Everyone starts off making mistakes and lots of first timers are not mentally prepared as to how hard a Giant Trevally can pull. I'm no exception. Bad knots, poor technique and insufficient preparation (both mentally and physically) were the main reasons why I lost so many big ones during my own visit to Komodo. Having said that, I doubt nothing can really prepare you mentally for that first burst of strength a Trevally can dish out. I can still vividly picture myself nearly getting pulled overboard when fishing 120lb braids/200lb leader on my Wild Violence 80XH & souped up Penn 9500SS. Everything just happened soooooo fast!

Uncle Russ · 08-15-2007, 08:51 AM

The Souls 90HHS I own appears to be much faster than the 90HS which is the one I think Randy originally posted the Utube video on. That rod appeared to be completely parabolic while fighting a 125 pound yellowfin, and bent well up past the stripper or first guide. My rod, under 25 pounds of drag, bends up to and a little past the first guide. The Souls website makes it clear that this rod is not for the novice caster, so I bought it anyway.

When casting, I suspect I may wish I had gone with the lighter rod, but the heavier one has got to be an incredible fish-fighting tool. Who knows? Someday I may own both. So far I cast it about the same distance as I did my Calstars and the heavier of the two OTI prototypes. But I suspect strongly that that is just my inexperience.

Mike: You are correct about the spigot ferule. That would seem to be the only way they could make a rod for PE8 divide in the middle and not snap like a toothpick. The two pieces would not go all the way together, so I originally put a little wax on the male portion (art imitates life

but the tolerance was so tight, I wiped it off. Thanks for the maintenance tip.

By the way, I once drove 120 meters in my car.

Russ

stickbom · 08-15-2007, 09:49 AM

Russ, DON'T force the two parts all the way in... the gap is supposed to be allowance for wear and tear on your spigot. After sometime, the male section will wear and get thinner. With the allowance, you can push the top section in further to achieve better fit when the male portion starts to wear out.

newman · 08-15-2007, 10:27 AM

Hey Russ, Also you won't be able to drop your popper down to the first guide when casting from the Big E. Don't worry about only being able to cast 50-60 yards because that is well beyond the edge of the lights. In order to maximize on distance you need to make sure the lure is not too light or heavy for the rod.

Try to visit a pond, football field, anything and spend some time letting the poppers fly! Distance will come with practice.

Uncle Russ · 08-15-2007, 12:49 PM

Gotcha, Mike. All 4 of my Smith rods slide all the way, but then, they are butt joints and thus they do not have spigots.

newman: Understood about the danger on the party boat. I am planning on only letting out about 2-3 feet, looking behind me while holding the rod horizontal to the deck, and calling out that I am ready to cast, then taking one step forward on the cast. It is interesting what you say about the necessary distance. Before my last trip (private charter with only 5 rods) I had heard varying opinions of necessary distance, including up to 300 feet. My experience with those huge floaters in Louisiana was that the lights went waaaaaay out there beyond anyone's casting range, and the tuna were busting way out as well. I guess maybe the floaters off of Texas are smaller with less light intensity?

One question for the forum, if there is a bite on and you see tuna on the surface, do you (a) engage in blind casting or (b) hold your cast and wait to target a specific busting fish? Thanks.

Russ

Sportfisherman · 08-15-2007, 01:14 PM

Mike ,

Those Thai anglers have come of age now , they were young then and inexperienced but now they would be among the better GT anglers I am meeting from time to time . Take a look at " saturated " OCEA GT 86HH captured from the late Capt. Indra's digicam .

Jon .

Quote:

Originally Posted by stickbom

Jon, I saw the DVD of those kids fishing with you. To be honest, I think they probably failed to land anything big due to lack of experience and physical strength. In the show, one guy couldn't even lift his rod off the bow rails (and in the process broke his reel's bail arm) so how could it be that the Ocea GT was "saturated"? Sorry if I'm not talking about the same group of Thai anglers because the ones I saw couldn't even maximise the potential of their gear! If there's anything that was saturated during that trip, it was the anglers

In any case, I'm not trying to put anyone down with my comments about the Thai chaps. Everyone starts off making mistakes and lots of first timers are not mentally prepared as to how hard a Giant Trevally can pull. I'm no exception. Bad knots, poor technique and insufficient preparation (both mentally and physically) were the main reasons why I lost so many big ones during my own visit to Komodo. Having said that, I doubt nothing can really prepare you mentally for that first burst of strength a Trevally can dish out. I can still vividly picture myself nearly getting pulled overboard when fishing 120lb braids/200lb leader on my Wild Violence 80XH & souped up Penn 9500SS. Everything just happened soooooo fast!

Ragman · 08-15-2007, 05:18 PM

Hey UncleRuss!

The lights that most refer to are the boat lights, not necessarily the floater lights.

At least on the Big E, the boat will start drifting just up current and a little past the floater in hopes of picking up lots of bait with its lights as it passes by the floater and past the floater's lights.

The boat's lights may reach out 60 or 70 yards? It's really tough to judge distance without a reference point out there.

When I see tuna busting or cruising, I'm blind casting my butt off!!!

During a slow or pick bite, I'll wait for blow ups or cruisers, but after a while, I get impatient just standing there!

I'll either blind cast for a while, or move to jigging, or go check on the first-time anglers to see if they need any help or encouragement!

08-15-2007, 08:51 AM	#22 (permalink)
Uncle Russ Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,136	The Souls 90HHS I own appears to be much faster than the 90HS which is the one I think Randy originally posted the Utube video on. That rod appeared to be completely parabolic while fighting a 125 pound yellowfin, and bent well up past the stripper or first guide. My rod, under 25 pounds of drag, bends up to and a little past the first guide. The Souls website makes it clear that this rod is not for the novice caster, so I bought it anyway. When casting, I suspect I may wish I had gone with the lighter rod, but the heavier one has got to be an incredible fish-fighting tool. Who knows? Someday I may own both. So far I cast it about the same distance as I did my Calstars and the heavier of the two OTI prototypes. But I suspect strongly that that is just my inexperience. Mike: You are correct about the spigot ferule. That would seem to be the only way they could make a rod for PE8 divide in the middle and not snap like a toothpick. The two pieces would not go all the way together, so I originally put a little wax on the male portion (art imitates life but the tolerance was so tight, I wiped it off. Thanks for the maintenance tip. By the way, I once drove 120 meters in my car. Russ __________________ "Tschirhart: Helluva deal. You bait the hooks--I catch the fish!--Grimm."

08-15-2007, 10:27 AM	#24 (permalink)
newman Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Montgomery, TX Posts: 101	Hey Russ, Also you won't be able to drop your popper down to the first guide when casting from the Big E. Don't worry about only being able to cast 50-60 yards because that is well beyond the edge of the lights. In order to maximize on distance you need to make sure the lure is not too light or heavy for the rod. Try to visit a pond, football field, anything and spend some time letting the poppers fly! Distance will come with practice. __________________ Semper Fi Chris Just Dream'n of Fish'n !!! http://www.grandadsfishingtackle.com Tuna fishing is my CRACK!!!

08-15-2007, 12:49 PM	#25 (permalink)
Uncle Russ Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,136	Gotcha, Mike. All 4 of my Smith rods slide all the way, but then, they are butt joints and thus they do not have spigots. newman: Understood about the danger on the party boat. I am planning on only letting out about 2-3 feet, looking behind me while holding the rod horizontal to the deck, and calling out that I am ready to cast, then taking one step forward on the cast. It is interesting what you say about the necessary distance. Before my last trip (private charter with only 5 rods) I had heard varying opinions of necessary distance, including up to 300 feet. My experience with those huge floaters in Louisiana was that the lights went waaaaaay out there beyond anyone's casting range, and the tuna were busting way out as well. I guess maybe the floaters off of Texas are smaller with less light intensity? One question for the forum, if there is a bite on and you see tuna on the surface, do you (a) engage in blind casting or (b) hold your cast and wait to target a specific busting fish? Thanks. Russ __________________ "Tschirhart: Helluva deal. You bait the hooks--I catch the fish!--Grimm."

08-15-2007, 05:18 PM	#27 (permalink)
Ragman Moderator Join Date: May 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 924	Hey UncleRuss! The lights that most refer to are the boat lights, not necessarily the floater lights. At least on the Big E, the boat will start drifting just up current and a little past the floater in hopes of picking up lots of bait with its lights as it passes by the floater and past the floater's lights. The boat's lights may reach out 60 or 70 yards? It's really tough to judge distance without a reference point out there. When I see tuna busting or cruising, I'm blind casting my butt off!!! During a slow or pick bite, I'll wait for blow ups or cruisers, but after a while, I get impatient just standing there! I'll either blind cast for a while, or move to jigging, or go check on the first-time anglers to see if they need any help or encouragement! __________________ Tom www.oceantackle.net *Go Hard or Go Home!*

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08-15-2007, 09:49 AM	#23 (permalink)
stickbom Junior member Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 19	Russ, DON'T force the two parts all the way in... the gap is supposed to be allowance for wear and tear on your spigot. After sometime, the male section will wear and get thinner. With the allowance, you can push the top section in further to achieve better fit when the male portion starts to wear out.

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