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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,136
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Casting Distance/Popper Rigging
To all: In getting ready for the next trip (52-hour Big-E on 9/1), I have been going over in my mind what I learned offshore of Venice. I now have extreme confidence in my knots and leader connections, and a much less inflated idea of how much drag I need to fish. (I am aware more drag will be called for on a party boat than on that private charter). But I also developed some questions as a result of that trip.
First, casting distance: I knew I was not very skilled before the trip. Typically, with 65 pound PE line, a popping rod between 7 and 8 feet, and either a Stella 8,000 or 20,000, I am able to cast only about 50-60 meters. I think I saw at least one reference to someone using the OTI 7 1/2 foot 50# rod to get up to 90 meters. That is impressive. Having watched a couple of videos of folks casting poppers, I think two of my faults may be: (1) following through too far with the rod tip, instead of stopping at about 10 o'clock, and (2) not gradually accellerating into the power snap at the end. Two questions in this regard: Using the class of tackle I mentioned, and a safe, overhead cast with only about 3 feet of line hanging off the horizontal rod at the start, what would be a reasonable distance for a relative novice to achieve with a 4 ounce popper? Also, do you think on one of the popping rods mentioned, the 8,000 with a smaller spool diameter or the 20,000 with a larger one would be best for acheiving distance. (I have noticed very little difference using my questionable technique.) My last question regards popper rigging: So far I have been blessed with not getting hit by any toothy critters. Due to popping limitations on the Venice trip, I have only caught one blackfin and one huge skipjack on surface lures. But I do know some folks rig their poppers on a short wire bite leader. I now know that you do not need a great length of leader or fluorocarbon when popping due to the agitation of the water that presumably hides the connection to the lure. And from what I could tell, the main trick to catching a yellow fin on a popper is (a) finding the damned things and (2) getting something that floats in front of them with a hook in it. It would seem to me that under those circumstances, lure action would not be all that big a deal and a 6-9 inch wire bite leader might be great insurance. Do you see any negatives for using such a leader? Thanks as always for your help. Russ
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"Tschirhart: Helluva deal. You bait the hooks--I catch the fish!--Grimm." |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,288
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i throw poppers farther when I dont try so hard. rare back and load rod, then slowly ease it up with a POP when you release... aim HIGH into the air and watch it soar...... i learned this by going to the pond and spending several hours practicing. good pair of gloves is essential to keeping the skin on your fingers...lol
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www.ronniemanningfishing.weebly.com |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,136
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Skeeter: I use the Blue Fever Short Pump LR gloves because they have Kevlar in the palms. I find that it is hard to hold the line on the glove-portion of the index-finger (they don't have material over the finger tips, but you cannot hold the line there with a heavy lure). so I don't feel I have the control for releasing the line as I would like to.
Perhaps I should also pose the question: how do you "load" the rod on a big popping setup? I know how with a fly rod that uses the weight of the line, or on a bay rod, but do you whip the lure back in a short "back cast" or do you just let it hang there and slowly accellerate? (The latter is what I have seen some Japanese anglers do. Russ
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"Tschirhart: Helluva deal. You bait the hooks--I catch the fish!--Grimm." |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,288
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rare it back, and when it gets to the point of no flex- then you sling it loaded all the way to the point of where you are letting go to send it soaring. start easy, until you get a "feel" of that load point.
I loved the under armor live release gloves = they were sensitive, and strong enough to wrap the braid around my hand several times and lift the blackfin over the railing of the Big E... they are that stretchy type material that breathes, and they washed in the washer machine with no problems... they are like wearing no gloves at all, yet they give you protection(not from knives or fins though) AND if I woulda had them on when that little bastage Bluefish BIT the shiet out of me- i Probably wouldnt have BLED all over myself!!! That little MF was meaner than my moms chihuahua!!!!
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www.ronniemanningfishing.weebly.com |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Moderator
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 924
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Hey Russ!
One part of this casting technique is to "pull" the handle (left hand if you're a right-handed caster) even more than you throw with your other hand during the cast. This pulling action (from the bottom or handle of the rod) helps me better load the rod. I also feel better balanced because I feel I stay centered rather than lunging forward with the cast. I feel I get more distance with a faster cast rather than a harder cast. Make sense? When boxing or any kind of martial arts, you're taught to relax the muscles so that you are quicker. This quickness is where power comes from and you don't get as tired as quickly. Hope that helps! |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,136
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gman: I can't find it either but am certainly interested. I do see that the 2007 Melton catalog has a Blue Fever "Release" glove, but I doubt it is the same one described above.
Tom: Thanks. I know about the left-hand pull (in theory), but I don't know to what extent I am executing it. I definitely am not staying relaxed, however. Nor was I relaxed as a youngster, doing martial arts in the lat 1950's in San Antonio. Of course, we performed those arts using baseball bats and tire tools. I do appreciate the advice. I am going to have to do some practicing. What's funny is I get about the same distance, give or take a few yards with all popping rods--700XH, 700H, and OTI prototypes. I do a little better with the 8 footer as you might expect and the 7 1/2 footers. I don't do well at all with the Calstars although I know many do. In any case, I know it is my own difficulties, so I have something to work on. Russ
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"Tschirhart: Helluva deal. You bait the hooks--I catch the fish!--Grimm." |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,114
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[quote=Uncle Russ Nor was I relaxed as a youngster, doing martial arts in the lat 1950's in San Antonio. Of course, we performed those arts using baseball bats and tire tools.
Russ[/QUOTE] Russ, That wasn't martial arts, it was the normal city debate society meetings. ![]()
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Jerry Uh oh, Snagged again!
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#9 (permalink) |
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Moderator
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 924
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UncleRuss- next time we're close to the same area, let's plan to get together for a practice session.
Until then, get a video camera (just like I did with my golf swing) and video yourself casting different rods. Make sure to i.d. each different rod you're casting for later viewing. I found that seeing my technique on video (what I was actually doing) was a lot different than what I felt I was doing! LOL |
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