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The Importance of Bending Before Buying - a Popping rod experience


Submited By Enoch Enoch is online now
Yesterday I went to Kilsong's Jigging World to pull on all the GT/tuna popping rods. (I don' think Kil saw me pulling on all of them, he was doing business with another guy) I think I pulled on about 15 different ones. Over the last few trips I pulled on many more...

JM 8'6" popping
JM 7'8" GT
Atlas 76/8
Blue Sniper 80/5
Atlas 76/6
Smith 80P
BlackHole 7'6(?)
BlackHole (longer one)
Tuna Sniper 40/60
Tuna Sniper 60/80
Black Devil 200
Ripple Fisher GT79R
Ripple Fisher GT78
Gipang XH
Gipang XXH
Gipang XXXH (whoa)


I cant substitute pulling on them for the actual fish but I cannot afford to go on trip to test-pull then. I feel like certain rods can displace pressure better then others. Of course this is for my own experience and certain rod is better for me then others. I can understand how some guys we see on youtube can do it with the great rods they have. The high drag for them is just a tool and as long as they learn technique, it's quite manageable.

Some of the blanks I would still be interested in pulling on are the Tokara, Komodo Dragon, Carpenter, and other exclusive brands from Asia.

Overall, I cannot express the importance of choosing a rod by bending it first. You can't tell the action from online spectating or hear say. Just go bend one before you buy.

Thanks Kil for having such a great resource.

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Old 03-21-2010, 04:01 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ono87
Just returned from my Fiji GT/Dogtooth trip, had a chance to test the BD200 and the Yamaga Atlas 76/8. First of they were a bit light for the the fish I was after, and I did get broken off on the reefs more than once. That being said they are great rods. I used the 76/8 about 60% of the time, cast great, easy on the back when fighting fish, good deal of backbone for such a light rod. Did manage to land the largest GT of the trip around 35-37kg without to much of a problem, but got reefed on a Dogtooth estimated at 60-70 kg while using 12-13 kg of drag. On a side note, some Aussie jiggers were there and were broken off using PE 8 rods and 14-15 kg of drag, big scary fish in these waters. The BD200 can cast great distances, has a beautiful parobolic bend and is way to light to fish for GT's in shallow water. Had to break off two absolute monster GT's estimate over 40kg's, could not stop them with PE8 and 12kg of drag, bend the rod like a noodle. How does it relate to BFT popping, I really don't know since I have used Carpenter DJ 83ML and a United Graphite 30-50 lbs custom popping rod for YFT. I will post some pictures of my trip when I have the time.

Glad you had what sounds like an awesome time!

Remember though, drags stop fish not rods. Crank up the drag to the max your line can handle, drop the rod tip so that it points straight at the fish and palm the reel with a gloved hand for all you can stand. The additional amount of force that the rod provides over the drag no matter what it's angle to the fish is literally insignificant. We only fools ourselves to think so as more weight comes on the angler when you pull back on the rod.

The Angler himself feels more pressure with the tip raised, not the fish. Only the drag can apply stopping power and the drag setting is all the fish feels. Any rod can be fished well over its rating for max drag, as long as you drop the tip when the fish runs or use less drag when the rod gets over a 45degree angle and the fish is not moving towards you when you try and pump. If the tip is dropped when the fish runs you could use any rod no matter how lightweight because the connection to the fish is straight onto the reel and the rod has little or no stress. It's only when you pump in the fish that you cannot use a drag setting over the designed specs. This is very different from what you can do when trying to stop the fish.

If the fish is so powerful that it cannot be pumped in with 13kg of drag then yes, a given rod is too light. That Tuna or GT does not commonly swim in the Pacific (unless you got into a Giant BFT), though there are many that cannot be stopped with 13kg of drag. It's a significant difference when fish push our gear to the limit.

Gratz again on a fabulous trip, looking forward to your pics!

Last edited by johndtuttle : 03-21-2010 at 05:14 PM.
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Old 03-22-2010, 05:44 AM   #42 (permalink)
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john,

well said...

over at gtpopping.com (aussie forum), i was told to stick the rod high up and hang on for dear life when the GT charges its first run...

like you said with the rod pointing up...the added pressure may be insignificant...and furthermore, working agst the angler
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Old 03-22-2010, 11:19 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juan
john,

well said...

over at gtpopping.com (aussie forum), i was told to stick the rod high up and hang on for dear life when the GT charges its first run...

like you said with the rod pointing up...the added pressure may be insignificant...and furthermore, working agst the angler

In their defense there are situations in very shallow water where you have to raise the tip of the rod to lift the line over Coral heads. In this case a very heavy rod would allow higher drag settings before breakage.

So, I am not saying it's a bad technique obviously as you do what you must to prevent getting cut off and in fact can be essential around shallow coral reefs (GT fishing).

I may be completely wrong but my understanding of this thread is understanding how the GT rods would work when fighting North American fish (BFT/YFT) where a high rod tip accomplishes little.

Last edited by johndtuttle : 03-22-2010 at 12:39 PM.
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Old 03-22-2010, 11:43 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juan

over at gtpopping.com (aussie forum), i was told to stick the rod high up and hang on for dear life when the GT charges its first run...

That is true. You got to prevent big GT from cutting lines by running to the sharp reefs as we do grouper fishing or blackfishing.
But it is not in high sticking position as GT are away from the boat.
HIgh sticking position is common when tuna popping as they make death circles under the boat.


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Old 03-22-2010, 01:29 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Thanks for the remarks! During normal GT fight you want to raise the tip of the rod high at the same time try to pump and reel as fast as you can not only to control the fish but to gain as much line as possible, so when the fish does run towards the reef it gives you several extra seconds before it reefs you! Hopefully, by then your captain already has the boat in gear and is tractor pulling the beast off into deep water.
Previous to the battle with the GT of my dreams, I had caught 2 other GT's between 15-23 kg. So I decided to switch from my RF 78PF, Orion Cono Cono 160 gr popper to the OR BD200, Shimano Stella 10000xg w/No Limits 08SW16000 Custom Spool, PE6 Varivas SMP, Orion Crazy Dog 90 gram stickbait. I believed that I was on a patch of reef that held the smaller GT's. What a mistake that was, besides what right does a 40kg+ monster GT have swallowing whole a tiny 90 gram stickbait!?
During the battle I had started the drag at 10 kg and pushed it to 12kg, the GT hand it mind set on the reef. I started to palm the reel and brought my tip down and to the side(old tarpon trick for pulling tarpon away from bridges) as a last resort, though at times I have been lucky with this technique. Lasted for about 3 seconds when it broke me off on the reef. To be fair that was the first time I have used the new and improved Smith 8/35 and I really didn't know it's limitations. I would have to say the top third of the blank is definetly softer that the original. And you should really never use such a whippy rod in shallow water battles with GT's.
I will be bringing both rods to the Cape this year to see how they do against those 100kg BFT's!!!
Finally note, anyone who has used the Yamaga 76/8, do any of you know of any other short rod rated PE10/12 that matched it's action. For such a reasonable priced rod, it's action can not be beat! Thanks
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