The Ultimate Milkcrate

[Gunsmoke]

Below are some pictures from my newly fabricated "Ultimate Milkcrate." It measures 21" x 24" x 12" without handles. 21" x 29 1/2" x 12" with handles. It weights in at 206 pounds. If anyone is interested, I can post pictures of it during the fabrication process.

It is designed to hold 7 rods. The back side with 3 rod holders will hold up to 50W's. The front side with 4 rod holders will hold up to 30's. I designed it to take on long range tuna trips. I figure I need one 50W, one 30W, two jigging outfits, two large spinning outfits, and one bait rod.

Stainless steel eye hooks are behind the rod holders to secure the rods with bungee cords. Stainless steel screws were used throughout the fabrication. It should not move or shift no matter what size seas it will encounter. The rubber feet are solid 1 3/4" thick rubber. Handles will support 500 pounds each. Lee 90 degree medium size rod holders were selected because they are the most proven holder on the market. It is completely fiberglassed and coated with five coats of white epoxy paint.

The core of the crate is constructed with a buildup of 1 1/2" of 12 ply plywood. The plywood core was filled with concrete to gain some weight. I will need someone to help me lift this beast onto the boat. It's one very well constructed heavy milkcrate that will not have to be tied down to the deck. It should not shift or move what so ever.

[Bret]

Looks really cool Gunsmoke. looks like a lot of work and thought went in to it..
Now if you can just get someone to load it for you...

[feeder]

Nice work there Gunsmoke. I'm interested to see how you built this monster if you don't mind posting the pics. Which long range tuna trips do you plan on taking this thing on?

[TOO]

It weights in at 206 pounds

206! Probably make you pay for two spots on a private charter.

[mcgolfer]

gunsmoke
your mine kind of tackle "ho", my only question is who is going to lift it into your vehicle for the ride to the dock? that thing should not move an inch....rick

[jt2hunt]

anyone got a lighter version i can bungee to the top deck????

[Gunsmoke]

The first pic is the core of the Ultimate Milk Crate. It is constructed with ¾ “13 ply maple plywood with a type II glue. The plywood was glued and screwed together with type II titebond glue until it was 1 ½” on all 6 sides of the box. In this picture, only the top and bottom is shown being 1 ½ “. The other 4 sides were built up after the pouring on concrete.





The 2nd picture shows the PVC wrapped in a heavy 6 mil plastic placed in the cure prior to pouring of concrete.





The 3rd picture below shows a hot melt gun putting glue around the plastic on the PVC tubes to secure the tube to the plywood and prevent the concrete from spilling out.





The 4th picture below shows the core poured with 160 pounds of concrete. 5 sides are now closed in and screwed together. Note, that I countersink the screws.





The 5th picture shows the glue being removed after pouring of concrete. Note that the PVC tubes have been knocked out of the concrete. The core is hit with a belt sander to remove any overlapping of the glued plywood.

[Gunsmoke]

The 1st picture shows the core completely filled with concrete and the 1 ½ plywood on all 6 sides. It has also been routed with a ¾” radius on all edges. The PVC tubes were left in overnight before being knocked out. All countersink holes were filled with bondo, and the core was sanded with a belt sander. It is now very smooth and ready for the fiberglass resin.



The 2nd picture shows the first attempt to pour the resin on the top. I built up the edges with duct tape to form a dam to hold the resin. A dam was also built around each of the 7 holes that will accept the lee 90 degree rods holders. Well, the resin ate into the duct tape and flowed over the sides. This was actually the second attempt, as I used masking tape to build the dam on the bottom. I couldn't get the white dye to look white in the resin on the bottom so I use some black dye on the top. Neither looked good. This was a mess.





The 3rd picture below shows the core after four coats of brushing on clear fiberglass resin. The resin is now about 1/8” thick on the sides and radius edges, and about ¼” thick on the top and bottom. I also glassed in the plywood edges in the 7 round holes.





The 4th picture shows the core being finished sanded. It now is completely encased and covered with lots of fiberglass resin.





(5th pic) I need a good white paint job over the fiberglass resin, so I used white epoxy paint. It is very slow to cure, but I wanted a good solid heavy duty white protective coating. This is the first coat on the bottom and sides. Notice that I have now pre drilled all the holes for the stainless hardware. I counter sank the holes at the resin layer so the resin would not chip when I finally install all the stainless screws.

[galveston1602]

WOW!

looks like you did it now.... great job...

[Minnow]

Gunsmoke,

You are the man!!!! that is one owesome and the most beautifull milk crate I ever seen.
What on earth make you come out with that idea?

206# is insane LOL, I for one will never be able to move that beast.