Spooling problems

SpecialK

So I stupidly let cabelas spool a reel for me since I don't have a spooling station here. They did not get the line near tight enough( Or at least I don't think they did. It is a Penn 6/0 and the braid is digging into the spool at about 25lbs of drag.

Is there some tricky way of unspooling and respooling tighter at my house? Or is letting line off the back of a boat with a lure of some sort and then reeling it in going to be tight enough?

Cabelas says they cannot spool the line any tighter. I don't know if I believe that or if it is just easier for them to say they can't.

Help....

ksong · 01-09-2008, 02:36 PM

When you spool behind the boat while it runs. make sure there is no line twisting which happens often. Twisted lines can weaken the lines.

Uncle Russ · 01-09-2008, 03:13 PM

SkeeterRonnie: I know what you are saying, and I may not have described what I do in enough detail. Actually, the only friction in the system (if you can describe such a Rube Goldberg cluster-f&*( as a "system), is in the rims of the line spool against the towel--I don't put any friction on the line itself at all, unless you count the friction against the one guide, which is always there anyway when fighting a fish--multiplied by the number of guides. The first time I did it, I didn't use the towel and put so much friction on the spool that it ate two neat little slot holes in the carpet. So I moved a table over it that my wife couldn't lift to check underneath. When we sell the house, I will probably just tell the new owners they can keep the table.

I don't use a glove to run the line through at all, and only touch the line as I feed it onto the spool. I even do that without a glove on, and in fact, when I did it with the thousand yards of JB 130, I predictably managed to wear a hole in left thumb and forefinger. I knew it would happen, but eeeeooooowwww.

Russ

SkeeterRonnie · 01-09-2008, 03:14 PM

that must happen on the hollow braid. freshwater guys do this all the time with spinning reels and mono line to get the twists out.

I know what you are talking about then RUss. I do that with my bass stuff. push the outer rims of the spools of stock line onto the carpet(in the apartment yes, new house- no)

and yes, that spectra can burn the snot out of you, if it doesnt cut you in the process..

xs_tackle · 01-13-2008, 02:05 PM

Let the tackle store do it: Variable results. Welcome to the club; we've all tried this. Apart from offshore-sophisticated stores (rough test--display case shows more than $10K in 50# class "gold" or "silver" reels) w/trained employees, most of these really don't know what you need by way of spool prep/knot/winding.

Behind the boat--Good; we've all done it. But it has its problems. One not yet mentioned is the surprise of loading line fouled by soot or other discharges to the water from diesel exhaust (unless your host boat is running really clean) or mud/chemicals discharged from rigs.

Reel-to-Reel--maybe the best way to load spectra in the 50#+ range is reel-to-reel. But, when doing this, you'll see tension is not constant (only foot-lbs are constant). Because of the declining distance from the top of the line to axis of the source spool (effective radius) and the growing effective radius of the receiving spool, the operative drag on the sending spool is rising and that of the receiving spool is falling. Ideally, you'd like for them to be constant or you'd want the line nearer the bottom of the receiving spool tighter (to prevent digging). Using Uncle Russ' technique may mask this shift somewhat because of winding fatigue (or, errors related to motivational beverages used to offset fatigue). If you're using an electric line winder, the best practical way to counter this to readjust drag settings on both source and target spools 2-4 times during the winding process. If you're doing it by hand, you should not be able to dent the retrieved line with your fingernail.

If you use the reel-to-reel or spool-to-reel technique, you can do a better job by adding a step or two to the process--load first to a spool or reel under some, but not a lot of, tension and use an exaggerated back-and-forth motion in placing line onto the spool (giving a greater back-and-forth line angle or "pitch"). This cuts down on spool capacity but resists the tendency of the line to dig into the source spool when you're later loading the line (under even more tension) onto a reel you'll use use while fishing. When you later load from this spool, use bare fingers to guide the line into onto the target spool with a much finer pitch. Bare fingers because you want to be warned of the temperatures you're generating.

DeepBlueGulf · 01-13-2008, 02:25 PM

One suggestion I'll make, is if you buy a new reel and want it spooled right, consider sending it to Basil, he'll sell you the right spectra, and load it right on the reel! I have never had any trouble with Charkbait loading new reels right either. Between the two, they must load over a thousand reels a year, so I consider them very knowledgeable and trustworthy.

DBG

SpecialK · 01-13-2008, 02:45 PM

Charkbait laoded a reel for me. This was just a bad idea on my part. Tried to put the line back on the spool and put tension on the spool when reloading it. I think at this point that the best idea for me is going to be letting it off the back of the boat. Then if it is not as good as I hoped I can just send it in and have it re-spooled the right way...

Traingle Sport · 06-03-2008, 07:30 PM

I hate to disagree with poster "JUREAL" but our HD140 linewinder can wind Spectra as tight as you need. It is also the one that costs $1870.00 so he may be a little confused. It is in most shops along both coasts sometimes private labeled for one of our line customers.
It has 3 times the power than its nearest competitor--12lbs of torque at the spindle or 1.5 h.p.. Now it isn't cheap but you gain control of setting up your own tackle avoiding a damaged reel that can cost you plenty. Visit our website if you want more information linewinders.com or email me with your questions.
Michael

jureal · 06-03-2008, 07:59 PM

Triangle Sport. Here is what I said : "Unfortunately, the ole Triangle line winders are underpowered to properly wind on spectra onto reels unless it is the model that costs upwards of $2000 to acquire and that model has the motor with the guts to put that spectra on. " Please read the part after the word "unless". The Triangle line winder that I have is the one that sold for under $1000 and has the smaller motor. Even though it uses the wording " heavy duty" it is not suitable for winding on spectra on the larger reels. Don't get me wrong, I do have that line winder and not the HD140 that you are referring to. I wish that I could afford it but that $2000 price tag is a tad high for home use. Most of the shops that I have seen use this cheaper model as it works fine for mono. I just wish that there was a means to hot rod my winder so that I can do the larger reels. It was not the HD140 that I was alluding to in my post but to be truthfull, I have not seen this winder in many shops. The Sato winder that I alluded to gives me all the torque that I need and more because it uses a 6 amp drill motor with no belts to slip at a cost of under $400 ( including drill). So if you have a solution to getting more torque for the machine I have, I would be more than willing to listen. Btw, I have corresponded with Linewinders.com about this very issue and while they have been very nice, have not been able to offer me a fix. I have spoken to others with the same issues and at least one has opted to change out the motor ( Grangers catalog, if I remember right). However, I am not so electrically knowledged of a person to do the transplant. I did notice that the model that I have is being or has been discontinued and I still see motors and parts still being sold on your website but I am not sure if a new motor will resolve my problem. Any insights would be appreciated. Not a slam on your product but an honest assessment by an owner.

SpecialK · 06-03-2008, 11:44 PM

I have since fouond a way to wind the line on using another person.
But on the Seis Tuna trip I did let the line out of the back of the boat while we were running. With the loop pulled in the end it put it on tight enough to handle enough drag for the rod.
The way I have been doing it in my garage is to have on a large bolt through the spool. I put a peice of thick card board top with a metal plate on either side of the spool(drag washer). Then I set the spool into a vise clamping the metal plates against the cardboard which is against the spool.
I just have another person hold onto the bolt just is case it tries to go flying. I have tested one reel around 20 lbs and was to sustain that much with the vice.
I am cheap when it comes to things like this so... I have been filling all my reels this way since.

01-09-2008, 03:13 PM	#22 (permalink)
Uncle Russ Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,136	SkeeterRonnie: I know what you are saying, and I may not have described what I do in enough detail. Actually, the only friction in the system (if you can describe such a Rube Goldberg cluster-f&( as a "system), is in the rims of the line spool against the towel--I don't put any friction on the line itself at all, unless you count the friction against the one guide, which is always there anyway when fighting a fish--multiplied by the number of guides. The first time I did it, I didn't use the towel and put so much friction on the spool that it ate two neat little slot holes in the carpet. So I moved a table over it that my wife couldn't lift to check underneath. When we sell the house, I will probably just tell the new owners they can keep the table. I don't use a glove to run the line through at all, and only touch the line as I feed it onto the spool. I even do that without a glove on, and in fact, when I did it with the thousand yards of JB 130, I predictably managed to wear a hole in left thumb and forefinger. I knew it would happen, but eeeeooooowwww. Russ __________________ "Tschirhart: Helluva deal. You bait the hooks--I catch the fish!--Grimm." Last edited by Uncle Russ : 01-09-2008 at 03:18 PM.*

01-09-2008, 03:14 PM	#23 (permalink)
SkeeterRonnie Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 1,287	that must happen on the hollow braid. freshwater guys do this all the time with spinning reels and mono line to get the twists out. I know what you are talking about then RUss. I do that with my bass stuff. push the outer rims of the spools of stock line onto the carpet(in the apartment yes, new house- no) and yes, that spectra can burn the snot out of you, if it doesnt cut you in the process.. __________________ www.ronniemanningfishing.weebly.com Last edited by SkeeterRonnie : 01-09-2008 at 03:18 PM.

01-13-2008, 02:05 PM	#24 (permalink)
xs_tackle Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 216	Let the tackle store do it: Variable results. Welcome to the club; we've all tried this. Apart from offshore-sophisticated stores (rough test--display case shows more than $10K in 50# class "gold" or "silver" reels) w/trained employees, most of these really don't know what you need by way of spool prep/knot/winding. Behind the boat--Good; we've all done it. But it has its problems. One not yet mentioned is the surprise of loading line fouled by soot or other discharges to the water from diesel exhaust (unless your host boat is running really clean) or mud/chemicals discharged from rigs. Reel-to-Reel--maybe the best way to load spectra in the 50#+ range is reel-to-reel. But, when doing this, you'll see tension is not constant (only foot-lbs are constant). Because of the declining distance from the top of the line to axis of the source spool (effective radius) and the growing effective radius of the receiving spool, the operative drag on the sending spool is rising and that of the receiving spool is falling. Ideally, you'd like for them to be constant or you'd want the line nearer the bottom of the receiving spool tighter (to prevent digging). Using Uncle Russ' technique may mask this shift somewhat because of winding fatigue (or, errors related to motivational beverages used to offset fatigue). If you're using an electric line winder, the best practical way to counter this to readjust drag settings on both source and target spools 2-4 times during the winding process. If you're doing it by hand, you should not be able to dent the retrieved line with your fingernail. If you use the reel-to-reel or spool-to-reel technique, you can do a better job by adding a step or two to the process--load first to a spool or reel under some, but not a lot of, tension and use an exaggerated back-and-forth motion in placing line onto the spool (giving a greater back-and-forth line angle or "pitch"). This cuts down on spool capacity but resists the tendency of the line to dig into the source spool when you're later loading the line (under even more tension) onto a reel you'll use use while fishing. When you later load from this spool, use bare fingers to guide the line into onto the target spool with a much finer pitch. Bare fingers because you want to be warned of the temperatures you're generating. Last edited by xs_tackle : 01-13-2008 at 02:09 PM.

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01-09-2008, 02:36 PM	#21 (permalink)
ksong Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 1,408	When you spool behind the boat while it runs. make sure there is no line twisting which happens often. Twisted lines can weaken the lines.

01-13-2008, 02:25 PM	#25 (permalink)
DeepBlueGulf Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 623	One suggestion I'll make, is if you buy a new reel and want it spooled right, consider sending it to Basil, he'll sell you the right spectra, and load it right on the reel! I have never had any trouble with Charkbait loading new reels right either. Between the two, they must load over a thousand reels a year, so I consider them very knowledgeable and trustworthy. DBG

01-13-2008, 02:45 PM	#26 (permalink)
SpecialK Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 450	Charkbait laoded a reel for me. This was just a bad idea on my part. Tried to put the line back on the spool and put tension on the spool when reloading it. I think at this point that the best idea for me is going to be letting it off the back of the boat. Then if it is not as good as I hoped I can just send it in and have it re-spooled the right way...

06-03-2008, 07:30 PM	#27 (permalink)
Traingle Sport Junior member Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 1	I hate to disagree with poster "JUREAL" but our HD140 linewinder can wind Spectra as tight as you need. It is also the one that costs $1870.00 so he may be a little confused. It is in most shops along both coasts sometimes private labeled for one of our line customers. It has 3 times the power than its nearest competitor--12lbs of torque at the spindle or 1.5 h.p.. Now it isn't cheap but you gain control of setting up your own tackle avoiding a damaged reel that can cost you plenty. Visit our website if you want more information linewinders.com or email me with your questions. Michael

06-03-2008, 07:59 PM	#28 (permalink)
jureal Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 294	Triangle Sport. Here is what I said : "Unfortunately, the ole Triangle line winders are underpowered to properly wind on spectra onto reels unless it is the model that costs upwards of $2000 to acquire and that model has the motor with the guts to put that spectra on. " Please read the part after the word "unless". The Triangle line winder that I have is the one that sold for under $1000 and has the smaller motor. Even though it uses the wording " heavy duty" it is not suitable for winding on spectra on the larger reels. Don't get me wrong, I do have that line winder and not the HD140 that you are referring to. I wish that I could afford it but that $2000 price tag is a tad high for home use. Most of the shops that I have seen use this cheaper model as it works fine for mono. I just wish that there was a means to hot rod my winder so that I can do the larger reels. It was not the HD140 that I was alluding to in my post but to be truthfull, I have not seen this winder in many shops. The Sato winder that I alluded to gives me all the torque that I need and more because it uses a 6 amp drill motor with no belts to slip at a cost of under $400 ( including drill). So if you have a solution to getting more torque for the machine I have, I would be more than willing to listen. Btw, I have corresponded with Linewinders.com about this very issue and while they have been very nice, have not been able to offer me a fix. I have spoken to others with the same issues and at least one has opted to change out the motor ( Grangers catalog, if I remember right). However, I am not so electrically knowledged of a person to do the transplant. I did notice that the model that I have is being or has been discontinued and I still see motors and parts still being sold on your website but I am not sure if a new motor will resolve my problem. Any insights would be appreciated. Not a slam on your product but an honest assessment by an owner.

06-03-2008, 11:44 PM	#29 (permalink)
SpecialK Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 450	I have since fouond a way to wind the line on using another person. But on the Seis Tuna trip I did let the line out of the back of the boat while we were running. With the loop pulled in the end it put it on tight enough to handle enough drag for the rod. The way I have been doing it in my garage is to have on a large bolt through the spool. I put a peice of thick card board top with a metal plate on either side of the spool(drag washer). Then I set the spool into a vise clamping the metal plates against the cardboard which is against the spool. I just have another person hold onto the bolt just is case it tries to go flying. I have tested one reel around 20 lbs and was to sustain that much with the vice. I am cheap when it comes to things like this so... I have been filling all my reels this way since.

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