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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 130
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Hollow vs. PE
I'm just wondering how many people are using hollow core vs. the PE braid?
I use a lot of hollow for backing on my big reels, but I don't know about using it for jigging. Seems like the diameter would be too large. These were some videos I did a while back about splicing if anyone is interested. Part 1 YouTube - Chinese Handcuff Part 1 Part 2 YouTube - Chinese Handcuff Part 2 |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 294
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I don't use the PE braid but do use Tuf line xp 65#. To the tuf line, I splice a short piece of hollow 60# or hollow 80# Jerry Brown spectra ( yes, tufline 65# is spliceable with patience). To this end piece of hollow spectra, I use the finger cuff and serve with two nail knots which makes this connection system extremely stealthy.
Btw, I watched your video part 2 ( part 1 would not load) and I have one question about the serving. I noticed that you do not exert very much pressure when wrapping the serve. I learned that you should make the serving with very tight wraps using a serving tool or bobbin. I have since switched to using the nail knot as it allows me to really cinch down the serving to the point of breaking the 50# spectra that I use as a serving material. The other point is if using dental floss, it is important to not use the waxed ones as the glue will not adhere well to the wax. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 130
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Yes, the dental floss is unwaxed and becoming harder to find, but Food Lion still carries it. I rely more on JB's glue than the serving. I think based on my experience the glue alone would probably hold. I just put the serving on to keep the end of the spectra neat.
So you are not using any glue? Just serving? All of mine have been set up for giant tuna in 300-600lb range, so I would never feel safe with only serving. But for fish 100lbs and less it will probaby work well. I will test my skills tonight. PS I checked Pt 1 and it loaded OK on my end. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 294
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I do use glue. I quit using both the JB glue and Swifty's glue because it dries up too quickly especially in tropical humidity. I am not so sure about people stating that regular super glue will not stick to spectra. I use a form of super glue that is sold in beauty supply stores as a finger nail glue. The particular brand that I have become fond of is called Bondini nail glue. Last night I inadvertantly dropped a spot of glue onto my topshot where I had not intended and I cannot separate the spectra from the fluorocarbon. I find that a slow cure glue is best as it does not get brittle as much as the quick drying superglues. Water is an accelerator to drying and should not be used as it makes the glue brittle. Just let the glue naturally set and the glue is not only stronger but a bit more elastic. The bondini small bottle retails for $1.80 and lasts a long time. Try the nail knot next time. The best way to make the nail knot is to wrap it around a plastic hollow round coffee stirrer that you can buy at restaurant supply stores like Smart & Final. Thread the topshot through the hollow of the coffee stirrer and pull it off onto the spot where you would normally put a serve. The two tag ends of the nail knot can be tied into a loop using a double overhand knot and place a pen barrel or screwdriver through the loop and pull both tag ends as hard as you can. The nail knot will get so tight that the color of the 50# spectra will turn translucent... yes, it will be that tight. Glue over the knot and you are done in a minute. I put two nail knot on each connection.
Last edited by jureal : 07-14-2008 at 07:14 PM. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,114
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ET,
Video #1 has people doing something that should not be done. The tapered end should be smoothed with 600 grit emery and pulled inside the spectra. I've found that spectra will break at a sharp joint from the mono inside. You might want to try thined super glue from Hobby lobby.
__________________
Jerry Uh oh, Snagged again!
Last edited by Snagged : 07-14-2008 at 07:34 PM. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 294
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Snagged, you are correct. Since I shape the ends of my spectra into a bullet cone for easy insertion directly into the spectra without hollow needles, I have zero problems with the sharp edge of the mono inside the spectra cutting off spectra fibres.
The glue that you are referring to is the glue that they use for rc car tires? I have heard that some folks use this too. The longer setting glues can be a pain waiting for them to dry but are stronger in the long run. Good point, snagged. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 130
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Its been a while since I did those or watched them, but I would suggest trying the razor blade method I discovered when you are messing around one day, just for fun.
Lay a sharp blade against a surface at about a 30 degree angle and pull the mono back against it. What you should get is a gradual taper about 3/4" long that goes back to a little tail. It makes the perfect transition inside the hollow core. no sharp edges. The little tail fits perfectly up inside the needle. for giants we are running the mono up inside about 10 feet. No way would I attempt that without a needle. If I could do it without a needle, then the diameters are probably not matched properly. |
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