Hollow vs. PE

[Uncle Russ]

We have a fly fisherman in the Austin area named Joe Robinson, who came up with a method of inserting the butt of a tapered leader up into the fly line. I have used that with great success--although to be sure, none of the bass I managed to land quite got to the 500 pound mark. Joe used the razor cut as well, primarily to get the butt end into the eye of a needle for initial insertion. While this rigging just barely passed my simplicity test (required for simple brains, darkness, driving rain, and pitching boats), at least it did not require bobbins and servings. This method involves only glue, with no need for servings.

Eastern Tackle: With your permission, I would like to insert a question of my own here, related to other discussions we have been having among ourselves (in which I am hideously outnumbered ):

If you wanted a smooth transition between solid spectra and a mono (or fluro) leader, but did not want to mess with the bobbin and servings (yes, yes, I know how easy it is ), how about using a piece of hollow spectra--say 4 feet long, with the solid Spectra inserted in one end and the leader in the other and two of the little crimps that are sold for this purpose? I don't recall hearing anyone on this board mention that method. I have talked to the guy who created that system and he abolutely swears they are soft enough not to damage guides. I guess the other concern would be whether they interfere with casting distance.

Russ

[Snagged]

Originally Posted by Eastern Tackle

Its been a while since I did those or watched them, but I would suggest trying the razor blade method I discovered when you are messing around one day, just for fun.

Lay a sharp blade against a surface at about a 30 degree angle and pull the mono back against it. What you should get is a gradual taper about 3/4" long that goes back to a little tail. It makes the perfect transition inside the hollow core. no sharp edges.

The little tail fits perfectly up inside the needle. for giants we are running the mono up inside about 10 feet. No way would I attempt that without a needle. If I could do it without a needle, then the diameters are probably not matched properly.

I agree with the razor blade method, but the vid shows somwone cutting the tapered section off.

[Eastern Tackle]

I had to go back and watch it, but Yes, you are right. Thats a NO NO. I wouldn't do it that way today. I would just work it, until i got the little tail back inside of the hollow core. Thanks for pointing that out. I also noticed the waxed floss in the beginnning. I couldn't get any unwaxed for a while and this must have been made during that time.

[Eastern Tackle]

One more note. I start and end the over wrap with half hitches today, instead of overhand knots. Its just a little cleaner.

Maybe its time to re-shoot that one?

[Snagged]

Originally Posted by Eastern Tackle

One more note. I start and end the over wrap with half hitches today, instead of overhand knots. Its just a little cleaner.

Maybe its time to re-shoot that one?

That sounds like a very good idea. We all learn as time progresses.

[Deep_Sea_Gull]

Originally Posted by Uncle Russ

We have a fly fisherman in the Austin area named Joe Robinson, who came up with a method of inserting the butt of a tapered leader up into the fly line. I have used that with great success--although to be sure, none of the bass I managed to land quite got to the 500 pound mark. Joe used the razor cut as well, primarily to get the butt end into the eye of a needle for initial insertion. While this rigging just barely passed my simplicity test (required for simple brains, darkness, driving rain, and pitching boats), at least it did not require bobbins and servings. This method involves only glue, with no need for servings.

Eastern Tackle: With your permission, I would like to insert a question of my own here, related to other discussions we have been having among ourselves (in which I am hideously outnumbered ):

If you wanted a smooth transition between solid spectra and a mono (or fluro) leader, but did not want to mess with the bobbin and servings (yes, yes, I know how easy it is ), how about using a piece of hollow spectra--say 4 feet long, with the solid Spectra inserted in one end and the leader in the other and two of the little crimps that are sold for this purpose? I don't recall hearing anyone on this board mention that method. I have talked to the guy who created that system and he abolutely swears they are soft enough not to damage guides. I guess the other concern would be whether they interfere with casting distance.

Russ

I have one things against crimps. You replace them after each trip. Most metals rust, corrode or otherwise dissolve in salt water...

Plus, you need another box of crimps and another set of crimpers to carry...

[jureal]

Another way that does not require the needles is to open up the id of the spectra with a doubled up piece of stainless single strand wire. You would be surprised at how easily the mono leader will go through....as long as you first round out the end of the mono into a cone shape with 4-way nail file.

Has anyone experimented with the holding power of various glues ( ie jb glue, swifty's glue, rc model tire glue, finger nail glue) on materials like spectra, mono and fluorocarbon lines? I know that glues like JB and Swifty's claim that the others will not stick to spectra. Pricewise, both the JB and Swifty's cost about $ 30 whereas the finger nail glues and rc tire glues are less than $2. Personally, I don't mind spending the extra money but not if the stuff does not last in the bottle and will soon harden out to a point of being completely useless. Now, the nail glues and the tire glues will do the same but it lasts longer and is so cheap that .... well, who cares?

[Snagged]

Keep your glue in the refigirator

[jureal]

Not always feasible to refrigerate the glue. Hardening comes from contamination with water. In high humid areas where I fish, the glue is toast after one trip.

The crimps were designed to be changed out frequently. On long range trips, we typically change the topshots after each big fish. Crimps are not left on the reel for long periods of time.

If you do not like the crimps, think about switching to the nail knot.

Here is another version by Gary Teraoka, an accurate pro.

Fishing with Gary Teraoka

I did a tutorial on this subject but cannot get it to work here. If interested, pm me and I will give you the link.