Cedar plug expierment

Mitchw123456 · 03-25-2007, 02:32 PM

I have always loved using cedar plugs as I think that just about anything that swims will hit them. My dad and I started a little expierementing today and we wanted a little feedback on what everyone thought. Here are a couple pics of some unfinished ones, the painted ones are still drying. I have a feeling we're going to have to swap types of paint as I do not think regular old latex paint is going to stick well to the lead (or at least it didn't on the snapper jiggs me made but they were dipped vs air brushed) I'm 99% sure we're going to have to use a different type of paint. Also we intentionally made this first batch a little heavier which these weight around 10oz. Comments/suggestions? thanks..

Pope · 03-25-2007, 03:13 PM

You could use bottom paint. Naked cedar plugs are great too.

Snagged · 03-25-2007, 04:51 PM

Get an epoxy type paint for Barlows.

Ragman · 03-25-2007, 08:41 PM

Great looking shape there Mitch! I too like CP's and found some on close out from some online tackle store, bought a lot of them!

I'm experimenting with adding color/design to lures with permanent markers. Sharpie brand makes a lot of size pens and a lot of colors too.

You don't get quite as clear of transfer of color as paint, but it's real quick.

Are you an Airbrush user? If so, you can really create life-like colors and designs.

I suggest adding as many coats of clear coat as you want to harden the finish.

Whatever kind of wood you're using, I suggest stabilizing the wood before you begin applying finish. The easiest way is to kiln dry, but you can also find injectable resins or some other chemical that will solidify the plug and make it so that it will not absorb/retain water.

This keeps the wood from cracking, or expanding/shrinking during and after usage.

Post pics as you go!

Snagged · 03-25-2007, 08:49 PM

Mitch,
The best working cedar plugs are from salt cedar in the Carolinia's. Don't ask me why, just some thing I picked up researching them. The natural color of the cedar was better than painted.

Mitchw123456 · 03-25-2007, 09:11 PM

thanks for the info guys.. I've been playing around with various shapes sizes and weights. I still am running in the same problem though. Everything is nice and smooth when I pull it off the lathe but as soon as water touches it it absorbs and becomes very course and grainy again. I was considering trying to add some type of sealer; maybe a deck sealant of some sort? So far I've used a couple different types of oak, some pecan, and even some cedar. So far the easiest to work with was the cheap oak dowels from Lowes (and its much easier on the trees around the house)

I do have an air brush but I am not going to say I'm very good with it at all. I've been searching for awhile tonight on where to pick up some more suitable paint but so far I haven't been too successful. I'll post of some more when I figure it ut and get things painted. It will prolly be awhile as I start graveards tomorrow night...

Snagged · 03-25-2007, 10:25 PM

I suggest that you look at some of the woodworking forums.
Wood always fuzzes when the first coat is applied, just steelwoll it off, then prime and paint.

Ragman · 03-26-2007, 09:55 AM

At OTI, we're using stabilized birch wood for our top water lures.

On the "wood industry" hardness scale, our birch tests to a 41 compared to cypress which tests to a 37.

Until you stabilize the wood, meaning to remove ALL moisture as in a kiln or other method that dry's out the wood, you'll see inconsistencies.

This may not be a big deal to you, just thought I'd let you know so you could manage your expectations.

As an aside, almost all MLB players with equipment contracts with bat mfrs, have their bats kiln dried before they receive them. This process puts the bat in its "hardest" state.

SkeeterRonnie · 03-26-2007, 10:10 AM

use the powder coat paint on the leadhead, and leave the bare wood(after you harden and seal it). Powder paint is VERY easy.. just heat the object and dip it in the powder.. pull it out, the powder then melts and hardens.

Mitchw123456 · 03-26-2007, 01:37 PM

just how hot do these kilns run? As in is this something I could fabricate up relaltively easily or just use the oven? As for the powder I may give that a shot as a guy has already offered to coat them for me for a few plugs. We started out doing this just for grins but learned we could make around 25-30 an hour once everything is set up so we may make a few extras and slap em on ebay just to see what happens. It has come apparent though that I do have to figure out how to dry them out, without catching them on fire.....

03-25-2007, 02:32 PM	#1 (permalink)
Mitchw123456 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 255	Cedar plug expierment I have always loved using cedar plugs as I think that just about anything that swims will hit them. My dad and I started a little expierementing today and we wanted a little feedback on what everyone thought. Here are a couple pics of some unfinished ones, the painted ones are still drying. I have a feeling we're going to have to swap types of paint as I do not think regular old latex paint is going to stick well to the lead (or at least it didn't on the snapper jiggs me made but they were dipped vs air brushed) I'm 99% sure we're going to have to use a different type of paint. Also we intentionally made this first batch a little heavier which these weight around 10oz. Comments/suggestions? thanks..

03-25-2007, 03:13 PM	#2 (permalink)
Pope Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 753	You could use bottom paint. Naked cedar plugs are great too. __________________ Pope...translates to "nightmare" in Tunenglish

03-25-2007, 04:51 PM	#3 (permalink)
Snagged Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 1,133	Get an epoxy type paint for Barlows. __________________ Jerry Uh oh, Snagged again!

03-25-2007, 08:41 PM	#4 (permalink)
Ragman Moderator Join Date: May 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 924	Great looking shape there Mitch! I too like CP's and found some on close out from some online tackle store, bought a lot of them! I'm experimenting with adding color/design to lures with permanent markers. Sharpie brand makes a lot of size pens and a lot of colors too. You don't get quite as clear of transfer of color as paint, but it's real quick. Are you an Airbrush user? If so, you can really create life-like colors and designs. I suggest adding as many coats of clear coat as you want to harden the finish. Whatever kind of wood you're using, I suggest stabilizing the wood before you begin applying finish. The easiest way is to kiln dry, but you can also find injectable resins or some other chemical that will solidify the plug and make it so that it will not absorb/retain water. This keeps the wood from cracking, or expanding/shrinking during and after usage. Post pics as you go! __________________ Tom www.oceantackle.net *Go Hard or Go Home!*

03-25-2007, 08:49 PM	#5 (permalink)
Snagged Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 1,133	Mitch, The best working cedar plugs are from salt cedar in the Carolinia's. Don't ask me why, just some thing I picked up researching them. The natural color of the cedar was better than painted. __________________ Jerry Uh oh, Snagged again!

03-25-2007, 09:11 PM	#6 (permalink)
Mitchw123456 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 255	thanks for the info guys.. I've been playing around with various shapes sizes and weights. I still am running in the same problem though. Everything is nice and smooth when I pull it off the lathe but as soon as water touches it it absorbs and becomes very course and grainy again. I was considering trying to add some type of sealer; maybe a deck sealant of some sort? So far I've used a couple different types of oak, some pecan, and even some cedar. So far the easiest to work with was the cheap oak dowels from Lowes (and its much easier on the trees around the house) I do have an air brush but I am not going to say I'm very good with it at all. I've been searching for awhile tonight on where to pick up some more suitable paint but so far I haven't been too successful. I'll post of some more when I figure it ut and get things painted. It will prolly be awhile as I start graveards tomorrow night... Last edited by Mitchw123456 : 03-25-2007 at 09:14 PM.

03-25-2007, 10:25 PM	#7 (permalink)
Snagged Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 1,133	I suggest that you look at some of the woodworking forums. Wood always fuzzes when the first coat is applied, just steelwoll it off, then prime and paint. __________________ Jerry Uh oh, Snagged again!

03-26-2007, 09:55 AM	#8 (permalink)
Ragman Moderator Join Date: May 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 924	At OTI, we're using stabilized birch wood for our top water lures. On the "wood industry" hardness scale, our birch tests to a 41 compared to cypress which tests to a 37. Until you stabilize the wood, meaning to remove ALL moisture as in a kiln or other method that dry's out the wood, you'll see inconsistencies. This may not be a big deal to you, just thought I'd let you know so you could manage your expectations. As an aside, almost all MLB players with equipment contracts with bat mfrs, have their bats kiln dried before they receive them. This process puts the bat in its "hardest" state. __________________ Tom www.oceantackle.net *Go Hard or Go Home!*

03-26-2007, 10:10 AM	#9 (permalink)
SkeeterRonnie Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 1,308	use the powder coat paint on the leadhead, and leave the bare wood(after you harden and seal it). Powder paint is VERY easy.. just heat the object and dip it in the powder.. pull it out, the powder then melts and hardens. __________________ www.ronniemanningfishing.weebly.com

03-26-2007, 01:37 PM	#10 (permalink)
Mitchw123456 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 255	just how hot do these kilns run? As in is this something I could fabricate up relaltively easily or just use the oven? As for the powder I may give that a shot as a guy has already offered to coat them for me for a few plugs. We started out doing this just for grins but learned we could make around 25-30 an hour once everything is set up so we may make a few extras and slap em on ebay just to see what happens. It has come apparent though that I do have to figure out how to dry them out, without catching them on fire.....

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