360Tuna - View Single Post

alantani · 03-23-2007, 04:37 AM

i've had several requests to post a thread on this reel. last month i had two come through, so i shot some photos. first, the schematic from shimano....

http://fish.shimano.com/media/fishin...9830570239.pdf

here's a stock charter special. these reels had seen several years of service and were in pretty bad shape. the handle turned easily on one but was rough on the other. freespool time on one was only a few seconds, but that is par for most levelwind reels. the freespool was zero on the other. both reels had pretty jumpy drags, even at a light setting. not a good thing for salmon.

the first thing to come off is the lever assembly, including the pre-program dial (key #115), the dial spring (key #82), the lever shaft body and "O" seal (keys #116 and 10), the drag control lever (key #117) and the lever thrust ring (key #84).

remove the lever quadrant (key #121) and screws (keys #19, 20 and 21).

back out the five side plate screws (key #122) and remove the right side plate as a unit.

remove the spool assembly as a unit.

note the wear marks on the right side of the spool.

it is a common problem for these graphite frames to "swell." i use a dremel and the cutting bit #117 to cut away at the inside of the graphite frame, just enough so that the spool doesn't rub.

add a little grease to the metal clicker assembly (keys #140 and 209).

remove the spool cap and drag pressure plate as a unit. note the reverse threads.

here's a photo of the original canvas drag washer next to a penn ht-100 drag washer (part #6-5600). use a dremel to hand cut the inside hole to match the stock canvas shimano washer.

back out the four click gear screws (key #135), remove the click gear (key # 134) and the main shaft assembly.

the shields of the three spool bearings can be removed and you can see the dried grease inside.

after cleaning out the grease with carb cleaner and compressed air, the bearings can be lubed with corrosion x or reel x.

switching out thin pre-load washers (bellevilles) for thicker ones will ramp up the drag pressure more quickly and give you a higher drag at strike before you lose freespool. the thin preload washer B's (key #44) on the right will be switched out for the thicker preload washers from the shimano tld 20/30 two speed reels (part # tt-0040A). the orientation of these belleville pressure washers remains "()".

interestingly, the thickness of the stack of thin bellevilles....

is about the same as the thick bellevilles....

here is the reassembled washer stack with bearing. reinstall the spool shaft assembly, the click gear, the two right side spool bearings (keys #213) and spring (key #37).

03-23-2007, 04:37 AM	#1 (permalink)
alantani Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: saratoga, ca Posts: 162	shimano charter special rebuild i've had several requests to post a thread on this reel. last month i had two come through, so i shot some photos. first, the schematic from shimano.... http://fish.shimano.com/media/fishin...9830570239.pdf here's a stock charter special. these reels had seen several years of service and were in pretty bad shape. the handle turned easily on one but was rough on the other. freespool time on one was only a few seconds, but that is par for most levelwind reels. the freespool was zero on the other. both reels had pretty jumpy drags, even at a light setting. not a good thing for salmon. the first thing to come off is the lever assembly, including the pre-program dial (key #115), the dial spring (key #82), the lever shaft body and "O" seal (keys #116 and 10), the drag control lever (key #117) and the lever thrust ring (key #84). remove the lever quadrant (key #121) and screws (keys #19, 20 and 21). back out the five side plate screws (key #122) and remove the right side plate as a unit. remove the spool assembly as a unit. note the wear marks on the right side of the spool. it is a common problem for these graphite frames to "swell." i use a dremel and the cutting bit #117 to cut away at the inside of the graphite frame, just enough so that the spool doesn't rub. add a little grease to the metal clicker assembly (keys #140 and 209). remove the spool cap and drag pressure plate as a unit. note the reverse threads. here's a photo of the original canvas drag washer next to a penn ht-100 drag washer (part #6-5600). use a dremel to hand cut the inside hole to match the stock canvas shimano washer. back out the four click gear screws (key #135), remove the click gear (key # 134) and the main shaft assembly. the shields of the three spool bearings can be removed and you can see the dried grease inside. after cleaning out the grease with carb cleaner and compressed air, the bearings can be lubed with corrosion x or reel x. switching out thin pre-load washers (bellevilles) for thicker ones will ramp up the drag pressure more quickly and give you a higher drag at strike before you lose freespool. the thin preload washer B's (key #44) on the right will be switched out for the thicker preload washers from the shimano tld 20/30 two speed reels (part # tt-0040A). the orientation of these belleville pressure washers remains "()". interestingly, the thickness of the stack of thin bellevilles.... is about the same as the thick bellevilles.... here is the reassembled washer stack with bearing. reinstall the spool shaft assembly, the click gear, the two right side spool bearings (keys #213) and spring (key #37).