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Old 03-23-2007, 02:50 AM   #2 (permalink)
alantani
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you will notice a great deal of play in the drag plate assembly. we're going to fix this. first, remove the seal lock (key #174).



the drag plate assembly separates into four pieces.



apply 4 layers of masking tape to the back of the drag plate (key #245), then cut out the center hole.



put the drag plate assembly back together. the seal lock will have to be pushed into position with a flat screwdriver.



take a very sharp knife and cut the tape around the pre-load spring A (key #172).



peel up the excess masking tape.



install the drag plate assembly.



install the cooling shield (key #171) using the special wrench (key #146). Remember, it came loose from the factory.



install the cross bar (key #229).



install the spool assembly back into the frame. note that some older reels only fit in ONE way. if you find that the spool does not slide back and forth easily, pull the spool out and rotate the main shaft 180 degrees. this works!



this is the right main side plate bearing (key #571). this bearing is often the first to rust. let's pull it out and pack it with grease.



remove the push button shield (key #91) and screws (key #90).



ok, here's the tricky part. you need to remove the handle bolt plate assembly. back out the handle bold plate screw (key #92), but leave everything else in place.



place your right index finger over the screw (key #92) and slide plate spring (key #93). push the slide plate (key #94) "in" and lift off the handle bolt plate assembly as a unit. don't let the spring go "boing!"



set the assembly down in a safe place.



remove the handle bolt assembly as a unit (key #69, 147 and 148).



remove the handle assembly (key #471) and drive shaft shield (key #150).

now carefully lift the side plate, leaving the drive shaft and gear assembly on your working surface. please resist the temptation to disturb the drive shaft and gear assembly.





now, who says that these old penn wrenches are useless? i've bent the end of this one and turned it into a bearing puller.



out comes the right main sideplate bearing (key #571).



here's the back side.



here's the front with the shield and retaining ring carefully removed.



the bearing was packed with grease.



the shield and retaining ring were replaced and re-installed.



re-install the drive shaft and main gear assembly.



install the drive shaft shield (key #150) and the new handle.



grease the handle arm and install the handle bolt assembly. tighten until the the handle bold aligns with the handle bolt plate (key #2A). use good mechanical judgement in tightening the handle bolt.



install the handle bolt plate assembly. take care to cover and not lose the spring.



install the push button shield.



check the push "low" button shaft to see that it locks into low gear properly. if not, the push button shield screws (key #90) are probably too tight. back off the screws a quarter turn at a time until the push button functions properly.



this is a shot of the anti-reverse dog assembly. under a heavy load, this assembly may fail. it might be a good idea to keep an extra set on hand so that you can be field strip the reel and replace the dog if necessary. call shimano at (877) 577-0600 and ask for a c-lock (key #69), two dogs (key #338), a guard screw (key #167), a guard against dog (key #340), a dog spring guide (key #341) and a dog spring (key #342).





install pinion gear A and B (key #201 and 202).



install the right side plat assembly.



grease the screw holes and install the side plate screw A's (key #164).



install side plate screw B's (key #406).



install the lever quadrant (key #236) and screws (key #161, 158 and 159).



install the drag control lever (key #155) and push it to the "free" position.



install the lever shaft body (key #153 and 153) and dial spring (key #152).



install the preprogram dial (key #151) and you're done!

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